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William Pearson

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  • in reply to: 94 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L #621795
    William PearsonWilliam Pearson
    Participant

      Again, Thank You!!! Problem solved. After pulling the problem codes, I used youtube to locate the MAP sensor pneumatic circuit. The vacumn hose was broken. Repair cost about $1.50 for hose and clamps.

      Really appreciate the guidance.

      in reply to: 94 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L #631518
      William PearsonWilliam Pearson
      Participant

        Again, Thank You!!! Problem solved. After pulling the problem codes, I used youtube to locate the MAP sensor pneumatic circuit. The vacumn hose was broken. Repair cost about $1.50 for hose and clamps.

        Really appreciate the guidance.

        in reply to: 94 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L #621780
        William PearsonWilliam Pearson
        Participant

          Update on my 94 Dodge Caravan 3.3L : the check engine light remains on, so I pulled the OBD code by turning the ignition key three times. I got a code 12 – memory power lost (I disconnected the battery and computer cable, probably caused this trouble code?) , code 13 – MAP sensor pneumatic circuit
          Also, I did a fuel pressure test and got a reading, on my cheap Harbor Freight gauge, of 42psi while engine was running and 48 after turning off engine.

          Also, another thing, maybe completely unrelated, I have noticed small bubbles on the motor oil dip stick.

          And Thank you Ace of Spades!

          in reply to: 94 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L #631495
          William PearsonWilliam Pearson
          Participant

            Update on my 94 Dodge Caravan 3.3L : the check engine light remains on, so I pulled the OBD code by turning the ignition key three times. I got a code 12 – memory power lost (I disconnected the battery and computer cable, probably caused this trouble code?) , code 13 – MAP sensor pneumatic circuit
            Also, I did a fuel pressure test and got a reading, on my cheap Harbor Freight gauge, of 42psi while engine was running and 48 after turning off engine.

            Also, another thing, maybe completely unrelated, I have noticed small bubbles on the motor oil dip stick.

            And Thank you Ace of Spades!

            in reply to: Cleaning Fuel Injectors #579199
            William PearsonWilliam Pearson
            Participant

              You’re right, the printout indicates bank 1, sensor 2. With some further research, it seems that the 3.3l engine in the 2000 chrysler voyager has only one bank. Sensor 1 is after the exhaust manifolds and sensor 2 is after the catalytic converter. I removed sensor 2 and now I’m going to take it to autozone to see if they can get a test on it. Thanks again.

              in reply to: Cleaning Fuel Injectors #586055
              William PearsonWilliam Pearson
              Participant

                You’re right, the printout indicates bank 1, sensor 2. With some further research, it seems that the 3.3l engine in the 2000 chrysler voyager has only one bank. Sensor 1 is after the exhaust manifolds and sensor 2 is after the catalytic converter. I removed sensor 2 and now I’m going to take it to autozone to see if they can get a test on it. Thanks again.

                in reply to: Cleaning Fuel Injectors #578411
                William PearsonWilliam Pearson
                Participant

                  Thank you, BarneyB for the response. I’m still trying to figure this out. There are two oxygen sensors, there does not seem to be any indication of which one is bad. And on the code print out, it gives four probable causes. 1) O2 sensor is bad, 2) fuel system running rich or lean, 3) Engine misfire, 4) fuel pressure high or low-fuel pump or pressure regulator

                  They said they could test the O2 sensor at Auto Zone. I guess the next step may be to remove them and take them to be tested. I’m not looking forward to removing the front O2 sensor, it’s a tight fit to access it behind the engine in a Chrysler Voyager.

                  in reply to: Cleaning Fuel Injectors #585215
                  William PearsonWilliam Pearson
                  Participant

                    Thank you, BarneyB for the response. I’m still trying to figure this out. There are two oxygen sensors, there does not seem to be any indication of which one is bad. And on the code print out, it gives four probable causes. 1) O2 sensor is bad, 2) fuel system running rich or lean, 3) Engine misfire, 4) fuel pressure high or low-fuel pump or pressure regulator

                    They said they could test the O2 sensor at Auto Zone. I guess the next step may be to remove them and take them to be tested. I’m not looking forward to removing the front O2 sensor, it’s a tight fit to access it behind the engine in a Chrysler Voyager.

                    in reply to: 2000 chrysler voyager 3.3L runs cool #580533
                    William PearsonWilliam Pearson
                    Participant

                      Thanks for the input. You were right about the original equipment thermostat. I went to the dealer and got a thermostat, replaced the one I got at Auto Zone and now the engine comes right up to temperature and holds it perfectly! I also did the boiling water test on the old thermostat and found that it was not closing all the way when I pulled it out of the hot water.

                      But now the radiator drain plug is leaking, a slow drip. I sure don’t want to damage the radiator itself, so I wonder what is the proper way to remove and replace the drain plug on a 2000 Chrysler Voyager?

                      Thanks again for your help. And, Eric, your videos are great. They have helped walk me through diagnosing, repairing and keeping our family’s cars going.

                      in reply to: 2000 chrysler voyager 3.3L runs cool #573925
                      William PearsonWilliam Pearson
                      Participant

                        Thanks for the input. You were right about the original equipment thermostat. I went to the dealer and got a thermostat, replaced the one I got at Auto Zone and now the engine comes right up to temperature and holds it perfectly! I also did the boiling water test on the old thermostat and found that it was not closing all the way when I pulled it out of the hot water.

                        But now the radiator drain plug is leaking, a slow drip. I sure don’t want to damage the radiator itself, so I wonder what is the proper way to remove and replace the drain plug on a 2000 Chrysler Voyager?

                        Thanks again for your help. And, Eric, your videos are great. They have helped walk me through diagnosing, repairing and keeping our family’s cars going.

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