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Thatnk you everyone for the info. The suzuki was sold already, but still good info moving forward.
Took the starter out and autozone and o reileys tested it and it was shot. Old one was under warranty so replacement was free. Car starts like a champ now. Thanks for the help Timothy!
Any advice would be helpful. Im going to start working on this when i get off work today. Any pointers in where to start?
I managed to bleed out the rear passenger wheel and the front driver side wheel. The other two wheels bleed valves are stripped and would not brake loose. The brakes were bled 5-6 years ago and i imagine it happened then because they were worn down before I even tried.
The brakes work much better after bleeding the two wheels. It doesnt feel like its at 100%, but still much better and the brake doesnt hit the floor. For example, if i slam on the brakes it doesnt go into skid mode, but stopps quickly.
Should I be overly concerned about driving the car still or should I service it more?
Thanks for the advice. The bleeder nuts look very rusted and the rear passenger bleeder wouldnt break when I quickly fiddled with it. What will I need to do if that bleeder valve wont break?
Well I got the code read and it was a speed sensor error code. There were two other transmission codes but they were likely flagged because of the speed sensor. I didn’t write down the code so sorry about that.
I replaced the output speed sensor. It took some looking around but it was located behind the front driver side wheel well. The battery is down there too so once you take the wheel well cover off the sensor was literally right there. The input sensor was maybe 5 inches farther in but I didn’t even change it. So probably 15 minutes to find the sensor and 2 minutes to change it. Drove the car down the highway and everything fine now. I did reset the computer as well and no check engine light.
Thanks for all the help. It was much appreciated.
TyWell I got the code read and it was a speed sensor error code. There were two other transmission codes but they were likely flagged because of the speed sensor. I didn’t write down the code so sorry about that.
I replaced the output speed sensor. It took some looking around but it was located behind the front driver side wheel well. The battery is down there too so once you take the wheel well cover off the sensor was literally right there. The input sensor was maybe 5 inches farther in but I didn’t even change it. So probably 15 minutes to find the sensor and 2 minutes to change it. Drove the car down the highway and everything fine now. I did reset the computer as well and no check engine light.
Thanks for all the help. It was much appreciated.
Tyhttp://www.fixya.com/cars/t6283989-got_2000
Why does the solution 1 say its the output sensor is the one that causes this? I’m trying to figure out which one to replace but maybe I will have to do both of them.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t6283989-got_2000
Why does the solution 1 say its the output sensor is the one that causes this? I’m trying to figure out which one to replace but maybe I will have to do both of them.
Thanks so much for the help. That is the same thing I have been reading online.
My brother couldn’t find his code reader so I unpluged the battery to reset things and the same problems happened on my drive home. I’m going to head to autozone in the morning to have them read the code.
Aure the speed sensors hard to get to? Do I need to replace both sensors or just the input one?
Thanks again for your time and I will try to get this fixed sunday.
Thanks so much for the help. That is the same thing I have been reading online.
My brother couldn’t find his code reader so I unpluged the battery to reset things and the same problems happened on my drive home. I’m going to head to autozone in the morning to have them read the code.
Aure the speed sensors hard to get to? Do I need to replace both sensors or just the input one?
Thanks again for your time and I will try to get this fixed sunday.
Well there isn’t really a strong smell of coolant in the car and the windshield doesn’t get really foggy. The car does take longer than normal to get warm, though.
Well there isn’t really a strong smell of coolant in the car and the windshield doesn’t get really foggy. The car does take longer than normal to get warm, though.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=72077]From the location you described it sounds like a heater core leak…
Karl[/quote]
I think I will have to look around there and see if there is any moisture. But the car doesn’t smell of anitfreeze or humid water or anything.
There was a video on youtube saying the elbow o-rings that go from your intake gasket to the belt tentioner can break and cause leaking. Wouldn’t I have been able to see that when I replaced the water pump tho?
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=72077]From the location you described it sounds like a heater core leak…
Karl[/quote]
I think I will have to look around there and see if there is any moisture. But the car doesn’t smell of anitfreeze or humid water or anything.
There was a video on youtube saying the elbow o-rings that go from your intake gasket to the belt tentioner can break and cause leaking. Wouldn’t I have been able to see that when I replaced the water pump tho?
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