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Interesting.. I also heard if you mix acetone with ATF, that you get something thats way better than PB blaster or kroil. Thanks for sharing though!
I always get a lot of my stuff from advance auto and pick it up in the store. Sometimes you can save as much as 40%!
The tires on the car are about 2 years old, some firestone HRi’s, and still have a decent amount of tread on them. I had to do an alignment because the boot on one of the tie rods was torn and ended up replacing it. I’ve heard a lot of horror stories with cheap bearings sold on ebay and/or made in china, so I bought a set of timken bearings, and I got a hell of a deal on them. I had the tires rotated and balanced and the noise is still somewhat there. It’s coming from the front, as i can feel it in the wheel, and the noise gets worse when i turn right, so i know its coming from the left side. Once again, i’ve checked for play, no play.
Quoted From raceking1324:
so u think a Cobalt SS engine would fit in my car i did not know that’s the car i was going to but i just love my car now but now if it will fit my car is a automatic 4 door do u think i can put a manual trans in i would love to have a manual one let me know OK thanks i like the new web page Eric.
Sure, with enough time and money, you can do just about anything. They are both ecotec motors but i’m not exactly sure if the cobalt ss/tc engine would have the same mounts. IIRC the cobalt ss sc would fit but even then, most just bolt on the supercharger to their stock 2.2. With what you have in mind, you’re gonna be spending quite a bit. Don’t forget you’ll also be needing PCM tuning and things of that nature.
Do you HAVE to rebuild it? Is it knocking on you? The ECOTEC engines that GM used in those cars are almost bullet proof and are well known for their reliablity. At 125k miles, if you don’t have any problems, I say you still have a long ways to go. They go very easy on oil, keep up with your maintenance if anything.
But if you’re still looking to rebuild it with new bearings, rings, machining the block, etc, it will most likely cost upwards of about $2-3k including labor, maybe more. If you’re looking to build it for performance, you can do that too.
Same story with the trans. If its not acting up or shifting weird, and you’re maintenance is on time, you should be fine. Replacing a trans on those would cost around the same price.
As they say, treat your car well, it’ll treat you well. Keep up with maintenance and you’ll have your engine/trans for a very long time.
The gauge does seem like its reading a bit high, especially for idle. Do what BigC suggested and hook up a mechanical gauge to your block. Look online for what the oil PSI should be and compare the readings. It is very possible that it is the gauge or oil pressure switch that just may be malfunctioning, but better to make sure. When pulling out the dipstick, do you see any foaming/bubbles?
Hm, not sure really. If anything, take it into the dealership and at least have them make a note of it. Tell them what you’re experiencing. If they can’t duplicate it, they’ll at least have it on file for if/when the problem gets worse. That way, if your warranty does expire and they refuse to fix it, you’ll have proof that the problem was existent before it expired. Sorry I couldn’t help much, good luck with it.
I love n/a, but I’d love a turbo even more. Love the feeling of turbo lag, when the turbo spools up and you get pushed back into your seat.
I love n/a, but I’d love a turbo even more. Love the feeling of turbo lag, when the turbo spools up and you get pushed back into your seat.
Cardone products are still great quality when used in place of OEM. I don’t know much, but I think you might need to get a hold of a timing light to set the correct timing for spark.
Not sure if its a common problem with Dodge vehicles, but GM’s SUVs (trailblazer, envoy, etc) had a common problem with the ignition switch. When they went bad, random warning lights would come on, gauges were going haywire, no start issues, or sometimes the vehicle would die. Have you tried disconnecting your battery to reset everything?
Just saying: Usually when the MIL is on and you can’t retrieve any codes, make sure you have power going to the OBD port. Its common for the fuse to blow sometimes as its usually run on the same circuit as the cigarette lighter.