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I am aware of the chrysler cross ram intakes but those were fitted on /6 motors not flatheads. I actually own a 4bbl cross ram intake that is installed in my 63 valiant. I think that the best way to go about this is probably to use a copy of solid works to help minimize the trial-and-error bit. LeMons is a low dollar parody race of LeMans as you guessed. The motor that I am building for the truck has been bored out .060 and has had the head and block decked to give it a 9:1 compression ratio. Had a custom cam ground for it by Edgy speed shop. It will eventually be fuel-injected and turbocharged. Yes, it’s a lot of work for minimal gains, but it sure is cool! I am aiming between 140-180 hp when all is done.
I actually am serious on this one lol. I know that a 1950 dodge truck isn’t the first choice in endurance road racing, but everyone has to start somewhere! A 350 chevy or similar would make more power and probably be less headache than modifying the old flathead, but the flathead is cooler B)
newer cables are not easy to visually inspect, you might be able to see some gaps between the strands but that’s about it.
I believe those actually use shift cables and I would say that the cables are worn out and have stretched. New cables and probably good to go
Generally when the ESC light comes on it de-activates the entire traction control system so that usually rules out the system stopping the acceleration problem. However a faulty throttle position sensor or electronic throttle body would cause that problem. Many newer cars are what is called drive-by-wire which means there is no cable running from your gas pedal to the engine. That is often how the ESC system works and a faulty part would trip the ESC and TCS light. If you stop by almost any parts store they should be able to use their OBD reader and read out the codes.
Doing a bit of research shows that there may be an outstanding recall from Honda for the transmission. I would give Honda a call with the VIN handy and you may be able to get it replaced at the dealer for free. Otherwise, why are you trying to swap the transmissions out? Why not try sourcing a transmission that is from an 02 accord?
I have seen the idle-air-control valve go bad on Honda’s fairly often, but seeing as you just had the head gasket done when the problem started I would recommend checking to make sure it is properly connected and didn’t get clogged up when the shop put it back together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glqULnoW5Ac If it is dirty then here is a video on cleaning it out.
When a washer fluid hose pops out like that it generally means that there is a clog somewhere in the line. The washer pump builds pressure and finds the point of least resistance and off it goes. You can replace the hose and nozzles for fairly cheap but if you are financially challenged another solution would be to pull the nozzle’s off and clean them out. You can also take the rubber lines and inspect them to see how bad they are, if you see cracks or if it is hard it generally needs replacement, If it has no cracks and is still malleable then you may want to take the lines out and blow through them to see if there is a clog and if you can dislodge it. Once you are sure everything is clear re-install and take a small hose clamp to the part where it popped loose last time.
Agreed. I worked at Pep Boys for about 3 months and over the last 2 years or so the company they use to rebuild alternators has gone downhill badly. Have seen about 10 alternators from Pep Boys overheat and be returned and exchanged under warranty. I would recommend looking at Rockauto.com for the next replacement. The last alternator I got from Orielly’s also shared this problem.
