Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
So quick update creativepotato. I’m planing to do more tomorrow, but I did try taking off in 2nd and it was fine. Of note, recently (the last month or two) it hasn’t frequently had issue choking on take off unless I tried to take off too quickly, but that’s closer to the WOT issue.
Also I took a quick look at the splash guards on the brakes. I notices the front ones are much larger than the rear ones, which I guess makes sense considering. The rear ones are both rusted, the driver side more so than passenger. I tapped them with a screwdriver a bit to try to knock some of the hopefully loose rust off and then pushed on them a bit to see if they would back from the rotors a little until I get a chance to replace them. The driver side one was so bad it actually felt a bit flimsy, but tapping with the screwdriver knocked more off that one.
I didn’t have a chance to drive it around, but I’ll get to it tomorrow. As a side question to this, do you think something like WD-40 between the rotor and splashguard would help? My concern is the brakes heat combined with the WD-40 being flammable. The smart thing would be to just remove the tire and file/sand the guards (or replace them), but I can’t actually jack it up in my driveway.
Thanks so much for the reply creativepotato! Yeah it was a lot of information to dump in one place and a lot of small issues. Main reason is because I know some forums prefer you not suddenly open 6 different threads. I do want to address each of the points/comments as I think some information got crossed, but I will try to keep it brief.
I have not resolved the wipe fluid leak as it’s a small issue that I’m not worried about at the moment. I added it mainly for completeness.
The exhaust system placement itself doesn’t cause problems for the car, but it does cause issues in getting to the EVAP canister which I need to check as a part of my main issue.
The battery is not secured at all, the noted zip tie is holding the MAF air box together because the previous mechanic owner broke the clips on it. The leather belt for the battery is a good idea though!
The rear drive brake is more of a rubbing sound, the rear passenger brake is definitely grinding. As I mentioned the caliper retainer clip ( This ) and pretty sure the anti rattle clip ( This ) are gone. The splash shields (I think) are pretty rusted though so I’ll definitely give this some investigation.
Vacuum leak was one of my first thoughts when I started researching the main issues, when I discovered one of the vsv tubes had a hole blown in it, I was pretty excited thinking that would fix it. Unfortunately it really did nothing for it. I have tried listening for the noise while the engine was running, and I think I hear it, even checked a few videos to compare, but really I am not sure. I also don’t really know anyone who works on cars, part of why I turned to the net lol.
For the O2 sensors, splice may have been a poor choice of word. They just used the cheap sensors where you cut the wires, swap them, then twist the wires back together and wrap the bare wire in electric tape as opposed to replacing the whole thing and rerouting the wire. I don’t know how familiar you are with it, but you can see the location in This Video. The part that is cut and replaced is in the first quarter of the video ( under the carpet, not where it connects to the exhaust system). The video goes through the proper replacement though, not the cheap way. In my case, the wires were not properly twisted back together, so they came undone under the electric tape. I did reconnect them properly, but I just don’t know if the wire twist having been loose/disconnected may have ground out one or both of the sensors.
My oil does need to be replaced, it’s a little over due, however the oil and filter have been replaced since the issue started. The level looking at the dipstick is normal and the color seems normal. I’m not sure how to check the pressure, but I will look into it. I think I can take off smoothly in 2nd maybe even 3rd gear, assuming it isn’t plagued with one of the intermittent issues, but I will definitively test this from a cold start.
I think I checked CarFax a long while back after I bought it. I would have before, but I wasn’t prepared to get this one. I had prepared and was looking at a similar year Honda Prelude on the lot that turned out to be a bust. I didn’t have a car when I got this one and basically cornered myself by getting a one way ride to the lot.
All in all, I can really feel the greatness beneath the issues. When it isn’t being hit with one of the intermittent issue, it drives amazing. I don’t know if you caught my introduction, but I’ve been researching, working on, and learning for a year now and don’t plan to give up. I don’t think the engine is toast at all, the way it chokes I’m positive it has something to do with the vacuum / air intake system. I have suspicions that if I could check the evap canister I may find the problem. The canister itself is an expensive part, but it has some vsv on it that I think are replaceable independently.
Lastly, that image is pretty sick! I’m gonna try to get some images and maybe a video this weekend. I’ve never done a video, but I’m gonna try.
I did indeed:
Tried cleaning the throttle body and the holes leading to that sensor. Did not actually remove these. According to the manual removing them would require replenishing the coolant (not hard but just haven’t done so yet).
I cleaned around the circular plate top and bottom, or front and back depending on how you look at it as well as in the hole with cloth, toothbrush, and Q-tip.
Notably this has seemed to be the most efficient way to keep the symptoms minimized but not fixed.
An addition to that:
I tried running a spectrum of gas/fuel system/engine cleaners though it. It always seems to run better but not perfect. I chalk this one up primarily to increased octane boost though.
I know cleaners are quite the debated topic, but I had watched a series of videos… Chrisfix I think, where he tested a bunch to see which was best. Also used did the Seafoam thing too but only through the vacuum nipple and gas tank, I didn’t use it in the oil.
Edit:
One more note I don’t think I mentioned in the OP blob but the throttle body cleaning reminded me to mention. The idle is never rough, with one small exception. If I WOT and choke the engine to 500RPM the idle will be rough until I release.When I try to blip the RPMs while sitting idle, they drop from 1k to about 500 briefly before going up.
If I quickly WOT from idle, it will pretty much always choke and hang around 300-500 RPM until I release the gas.
With some recent more thorough cleaning, the WOT issue has seemed less prevalent.
My last cleaning earlier today (date of the OP) it seemed to WOT fine, but the other issues were still present.
No worry, I 100% get it’s a lot of stuff. I wouldn’t even want to read it all and I spent hours writing it. I’ve been keeping all this in my head for about a year trying to sort it all out while learning. The main point was just to dump everything I knew about it so I could refer back to it as needed and so there was as much detail as possible.
The issue(s) I listed as main issue is really top of my list. I suspect a lot of it is related but let’s start with.. the jerking as this actually causes additional stress on my already in trouble CV axle.
The jerking symptom was:
Sometimes though, even now, while accelerating, it will jerk once or twice, but not actually choke. Occasionally this is accompanied by a light backfire.
The jerking primary seems to be caused by momentarily not receiving gas and then catching up to the proper speed.
While intermittent, unlike the starting choke issue and the 2nd time start issues, this has persisted pretty much the whole time.
Notably this primarily happens during first gear acceleration when happen it does but not always. The higher the gear the less frequently this seems to happen, but it does happen.