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Fascinating, that one doesn’t seem to work (for me) either. I don’t particularly need it. As a web dev it’s just a drive in me to inspect things and make sure they work, much like checking fluids and whatnot during general auto maintenance. I did send an email to the support covering this page and a few others on the homepage I found not working. All the ones in the top nav seem to be fine though. The find leaks link that works for me (from the nav) is: [url=”https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks/finding-and-fixing-leaks”]https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks/finding-and-fixing-leaks
[/url]Thanks for the quick response though!
Eric, may just be me, but the link doesn’t seem to work, it just goes to the homepage. Also clicking the leaks circle link on the homepage also seems to just take you back to the homepage. I’ll test this a bit more and take further action from there (email, topic in the appropriate section, or something of that nature).
I’m actually really happy with my Celica, would prefer a different color, but that can be changed.
I’ve actually always had a thing for some of the older cliche muscle cars like the Iroc-z and Trans-Am/Firebird, but not so much the Vipers, Ferraris, Corvettes, or other high end ones.
86 Chevy Camaro Iroc-Z
78 Pontiac Trans Am
My favorite rare cars are most of the Lotus
I love that my Celica shares an engine with the Lotus Exige
198X (don’t remember year) Toyota Camry
1992 Ford Thunderbird
1985 Honda Prelude
1986 Honda Accord
1991 Honda Accord
2000 Ford Focus
2001 Toyota Celica GT-S
Also had Fleet 2012 and 2014 Ford Escapes The 2014 (They were technically fleet but I kept and maintained them)
Owned them in that order too except the fleet vehicles were before the Celica.Edit: As a funny story, when I had the Prelude, I went to a junkyard looking for tires, the ’86 Accord was there but looked in pretty good shape. They wanted $100 something for the 4 tires but when I asked how much they wanted for the whole car, they only wanted $200. It was fresh brought in, still had keys and clean title. It was a no brainer and happened to be a MT 5-spd which I wanted to learn to drive at that point anyways. It was nice not to have to worry about burning a clutch since I only paid 200 for it. It was actually an excellent daily driver with little I had to have done to it.
Alright, I’m 90% sure the TPS is bad:
VTA-E2 Closed- 2.8k (Good)
VTA-E2 WOT- 0.8k (Bad)
VC-E2- 3.0k (Good)I also noticed it is not an OE part. The part date is Nov 16, 2010. It’s not even the right part number actually. It has the part number TPS041-001, which is a TPS for a Mitsubishi Lancer. There’s a good sized list of vehicles the OE interchanges with (Corolla XRS, Vibe, Matrix, Tacoma,and so on) but the Lancer isn’t one of them.
I will say, the OE and it’s interchanges are kinda difficult to find and about twice as expensive (on average) as the one on it now. It was close though. The proper one is 89452-35020, the one current Lancer one on it interchanges for 89452-33040 which is for a ’99 Celica GT or ’01 Camry.
It makes me glad I actually researched the OE part, not just order the part that was on it.
Hey again! Thanks for taking time from your schedule to find that.
Actually the repair manual has a really good page on checking it. It doesn’t have as much general information as your link does, which is great for learning, but it has the precise resistance that should be measured (see image at the bottom).
After I made the response that I was just going to take it out and try to clean it, I did a bit more investigating aka RTFM and discovered it’s not as simple as I thought. In order to take it off, I wind up having to redo the coolant which from what I gathered in a Celica forum, is a bit of a pain to get just right. There’s also a gasket which is between the throttle body and engine block which is labeled as not reusable. Granted the o ring on the MAF sensor is labeled as not reusable and I’ve pulled it out to clean without replacing it.
Basically, I need to test it before I take it off (which is why I looked up the test in the manual) because for the effort involved in taking it off to clean it, I may as well just replace it. Autozone had it listed for $55, but I found the OEM version multiple times online for about
$15$25. I may check specifically with some of ETCG’s sponsors though just to show some support.Thanks again for the link! I’ll read over it and see if I can pick up some addition information from it. Every little bit helps for sure.
Small update. I stopped my an Autozone this morning to get my CEL codes since I have done a considerable amount of work (for me) since the last time I had it checked. Let me say, Autozone has stepped their game up by the way. Last yeah the guy who checked my CEL had.. a lot of issues and really couldn’t give me any information on what the codes could mean. Now they use a scan tool with no display which feeds the codes directly to their system inside so that by the time you get back in, you have a printout where it has checked what the codes is, has suggested parts, ect. Pretty cool.
Anyway so if you’ll recall, last time I had two CEL codes, one that looked like the O2 sensor and one unknown open circuit electrical issue. I only have one now, P0120 “TP Sensor or Switch ‘A’ Circuit Malfunction”. I think this is the same unknown open circuit code from before, just with more detail this time.
So, looks like I may have a bad throttle position sensor, which does make sense to me since when I clean the throttle body, is does better for a little bit. It’s also noteworthy on this that last time I cleaned it, I also tried to use some wire to scrape down in the sensor area a little. It’s difficult to get down in it through, especially the hole behind the plate, but each time I got it in there, I pulled out some carbon. Since that it has ran a bit better consistently.
I’ve been avoiding it, but given the information I have now, I think this weekend I’m going to take the sensor off and try really getting in there and cleaning it. I know the code notes “Circuit ‘A'” but before I throw money at parts, I wanna try this. Saving the money here could open me up to start on my next issue, the cv axle parts.
As a final note on the TPS, it notes the symptoms as “A failed sensor can cause hesitation, surging, incorrect idling, and erratic shifting of the transmission” pretty much all of which I described in my big long “diary” post in the beginning.
Alright, so I have some generic images, but at least you will have a visual. I couldn’t really get light to work with me so they’re a little on the dull side even after a little editing. I also did get a video, but like a diva when the camera was on she performed like a star. There are still some noteworthy noises so I may still upload it.
I scaled these down to fit the forum, if you want a larger shot or a image of something particular, just let me know.
Sideview:
Quarter view:
Quarter view with hood up:
Engine w/ covers:
This video left me with a question, and I’m sure probably many others know, I could also just google I suppose, but I’m here and maybe someone else may wonder as well.
In the first video you took off the grill to access the hood latch because without the battery/starting, it wouldn’t open. If the whole latch assembly as seen fixed here is mechanical and cable driven, how does power factor into it opening or not opening?
Just finished watching the Bad Mechanics and the RE: videos, and in the RE: video, ETCG made note of something I had been having the thought of myself. There seems to be a lot of crossover between IT and Automotive. I’ll take it a step further and note the crossover is a bit more prominent specifically between automotive technicians and hardware repair technicians.
I have done hardware repair for about 10yrs, though in the last year I’ve pushed more into web development/design. But I have seen a lot of what ETCG talks about in his videos. Very much the same it seems like people’s PCs, laptops, ect fail at just the wrong time and they just don’t want to have to pay what it cost for repairs.
I’ll admit, a good majority of my time I did not interface with customers. I would be in a “shop” where I was given a product, a problems description, and basically told to have at it.
Another striking similarity is brands. ETCG mentioned in a few videos how your specialist who work on one brand of car will know that much more about the quirks of that brand than someone who works on all the brands because they just see it day in and day out instead of once every few weeks or months. This is very much true in laptop repair, at least more so than say desktop. One brand you may pull two screws to get a hard drive out whereas another you may have to completely take everything out.
I did spend a 4yr period as a field technician though, where I did directly interface with business customers. There were some good understanding customers, but a lot of them were really frustrated and even hard to deal with because understandably, while their product is broke, they cannot get any work done. Sometimes you the service note may be for a dead hard drive, but then you get out and start looking at it and find a bunch of other stuff is actually a problem. Or you get sent out with a hard drive and find out that wasn’t the issue at all. Visa-versa, I’ve had many instances where they ticket says a motherboard is bad and on inspection you find out that the power plug is just bad
Another fascinating similarity is simply the enthusiasm. When I started doing hardware I was pretty excited about it, as time wore on it became just another job. There were IDGAF days, the whole 9 yards. In the profession, I’ve seen hardware techs who really try to do a good job an look out for the customer and I’ve seen techs who just slap things together to collect a paycheck.
Let me tell you, the ones who just slap it together, were really frustrating because then when the product comes back in a week or a month, now you have to not only fix the problem, but also fix their work too. I remember one time in particular… A tech replaced a CPU, the laptop came back for overheating issues and when I looked, they hadn’t bothered to take the cellophane backing off the thermal paste pad.
A big issue in hardware repair comes at commision vs standard pay. When you have people who are paid per job completed, the amount of slop work goes up significantly because they want to just churn out as many jobs as possible to make more money, as was the case of the person who did the CPU noted above.
This is already getting way to long, but a final similarity I found interesting was people gunning for (which was mentioned in a different video). Even among friends, it was always hard to know who really had your back and who would throw you under a bus. Also I’ve been let go from a number of positions for being too ‘slow’ because I take time to make sure the job’s done right. Ironically, in some positions I’ve been in, people who do slop work got celebrated for having so much done. They would basically send something out and then when it broke in a week slop it again and send it out, thus getting multiple credit for doing the same work. I’ve seen people make things up, say a stick of ram unrelated to the current issue was bad so they could open a second ticket and get double credit.
Even with all that I always had a personal belief much like ETCG noted, that techs already had a bad name as it was, so no matter what the other tech may have done, never blame the other tech.
I was actually coming to ask same thing carsgovroom did, but that’s been covered. I also did want to note, I’m not sure if this was available at the time, but I’ve seen a lot of spray paint pop up over the last couple years that is supposed to match factory paint colors.
I haven’t tested it or know how long it last vs others, but one example 8oz can is $7.99. More than normal but if you want a cheap repair while trying to get close to factory paint, I imagine it’s worth a look. At a quick glance, most of the colors/cans have pretty positive reviews.
I’m fairly new to this, but I did do some searching in my area (Louisville) and found a place called Haas. (http://www.haasmachinecompany.com/index.htm). I looked over the site and it seems like they may be able to help. Looks like they cover a wide variety of machining.
It can’t hurt to call anyway, or look over the site and judge for yourself. I just have no info on if they can machine to less than 100micron. Plus it should be at least a little closer than Indy if that one hasn’t worked out.
Good luck in your search!
