November 23, 2016 at 3:07 pm #872491
This will actually be my last live show of 2016. I have other obligations and a vacation that make this so. I will however do my best to answer as many of your questions as I can during this show.
Once the show concludes, I’ll post the video to this thread and then lock it.
Post your questions early for the best chance of getting it answered.
See you tonight!
November 23, 2016 at 10:30 pm #872519
Colin PiegoreParticipantNovember 23, 2016 at 11:27 pm #872521
Hey Eric, Long time viewer/lurker who finally has a question.
My dad has a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 318 automatic. He’s had a persistent problem since he bought it in that the truck refuses to climb higher than 3k rpm when driving, nor will it downshift to get up to speed. When you put the pedal to the floor it’s fairly anemic and at about 2500 to 3000 rpm its like it runs out of steam and will just refuse to go any higher.
I’m thinking torque converter, but I figured I’d ask because maybe you’ve run into this or have heard about it before. Any Ideas?
ETA: The truck drives normally and will reach highway speeds (slowly) aside from this issue.November 24, 2016 at 12:03 am #872522
I need to replace the headlight assembly in my ’06 stratus and also need to change out the irregularly sized bolts used to fasten it down. None of the new assemblies I have found include the hardware, where do you go to find hard to find fasteners like this?November 24, 2016 at 2:26 am #872529
Hi Eric, been watching your videos since almost the beginning but this is my first question. My stepson has a 94 Honda Civic VX that he uses to commute to school. For the life of me I can’t figure out how to adjust the headlights. I’m feeling a bit anachronistic but I don’t see adjusting screws in the sense of cars from the 70s and 80s. They are aimed just too short, so we want to aim them up just a few degrees so they shine a bit farther down the road. Any suggestions? Thanks for all you do!
Also, AMA question: latex, vinyl or nitrile – what’s your work glove preference. And thoughts on disposable vs. the more durable types?November 24, 2016 at 2:30 am #872530
Hi Eric I got a 2002 AWD Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l 6-inline and it started to make a loud engine knock a few hours after changing the fuel filter by the gas tank and putting in premium gas to “clean” the system. Why does it knock after doing this (isn’t leaking; everything’s tight) and why would it quiet down after putting in regular gas after I disconnect my battery to reset my ECU? Today I changed spark plugs, oil & oil filter and it quiet down more. I saw coolant in the oil (I don’t think it has a bad headgasket; doesn’t leak lots of coolant on the floor or overheat). I can still hear it though and it’s not knocking if I go 70 mph on the highway. I’m thinkin that if I had a bad connecting rod (or lifter) that it would always be knocking, esspecialy at 70 mph. The knock gets louder after I gently let off the gas (no braking) to slow it down. Happy Thanksgiving!November 24, 2016 at 4:03 am #872538
Hey Eric, just wanted to say thanks for answering my question a couple weeks ago about my brakes. The slam on the brakes trick seems to have straightened it out – they feel just as they should now. Much appreciated.November 24, 2016 at 4:03 am #872540
Hey Eric, greetings from New Zealand 🙂
What’s the best way to clean the injectors on a B18C? Any tips/tricks?
Thanks for all your videos and work this year 🙂
Thanks, JonNovember 24, 2016 at 4:07 am #872543
Happy Thanksgiving to you are your family. I am thankful for ETCG teaching me to fix my own car and save thousands!
My question is about my 2003 Honda Accord LX wheels. The stock LX from this vintage has steel rims and 15 inch tires. I pulled some Honda alloy rims from a 2003 EX in the junkyard but didn’t realize the stock EX runs 16 inch rims. Will I notice any handling or speedometer issues running 16 inch alloy rims and tires? I use Michelin tires BTW.
ScottNovember 24, 2016 at 4:08 am #872544
Love the shows, but here’s something maybe a little out of your comfort zone! 🙂
I have a Discovery 2 V8 (the 4.0 Litre) and the AC is very noticeable when engaged, the engine loses power and is gutless – some people have said the A/C pump could be faulty, either bearings or some sort of binding internally. Others have said the engine could be gutless anyway because of bad MAF sensor.
Without firing the parts cannon at it, what do you recommend to do to check this with basic tools? PS In Australia we are not allowed to self-service AC systems, so disconnecting hoses not an option 🙂
Thanks and have a great thanksgiving and Christmas!
Darren CoullNovember 24, 2016 at 4:09 am #872545
Hey Eric I wanted to get your opinion on daily driving a stick shift car. Almost my entire family tells me they hate it (we live in NY) and I just want to get your opinion on it before I go out and buy a manual transmission vehicle. Do you find it a nuisance or tiring to drive? What starter car should I get for my first manual transmission car? (preferably a Honda/Acura)November 24, 2016 at 4:12 am #872546
Hi im 18 and i was interested on how you started fixing cars, and how you’ve made it a living. Looking for advice on a part time thing while in school.November 24, 2016 at 4:13 am #872547
Hello Eric “The” Car Guy,
I am a long time fan and recently watched your video about the Chevy 1500 pickup your dad gave you. I can relate in a big way because my dad with whom I was very close and who gave me a passion for all things mechanical past away in 2013 at the very young age of 67. He was sick for many years and to make a long story short one of the things inherited from him I cherish the most is the truck.
It is a Ford Explorer 2003 XLT V8 – 4.6 liter. It has a tow package and an off-road package with a 3.73 differential and can tow 7000 pounds.
He purchased it brand new in 2003 but got sick and over the years it was used on a regular basis, but very little. It was pampered and treated like a king. Mostly they used his wife’s car.
When I got the truck in july 2013 it had 36,000km (22,000 miles) on it. IT was mint and still is.
I am a pretty avid backyard / home mechanic and also pretty well equipped.
I do a lot of preventative maintenance and recently, nearing 60,000 miles I proceeded to do Ford intense usage maintenance schedule since I tow a camping trailer + plus off road use for hunting and fishing.
The truck is doing great. I am replacing spark plugs, transmission / differentials / transfer case fluid & filters, etc…
My question now. I know this truck having the 5R55S transmission has a design flaw from Ford with the Overdrive and Intermediate Servos sleeves getting used up and problems starting at about 70,000 mile. This flaw often leads to bands getting broken and snapped on the Explorers, Mustangs, some Jaguars, Thunderbirds & Lincoln LS.
Then you have to get a reman transmission installed or the servos sleeves rebored…Thousands of $$$$
Recently I learned that a company named AJ1E Superior Solutions
(http://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/) Created a pretty permanent fix for this problem by machining Ford OEM servos and fitting them with special O rings. They sell it as a kit (2 servos) to be installed at home, with very good instructions. No need to drop the transmission. 200$ plus shipping.
Note that I have no symptoms yet about this issue, except maybe an occasional mild flare up when shiffting between 2nd and 3rd which might just be a normal occurrence for this truck.
Do you think I should order this kit and install the new servos to prevent problems I know are probably coming soon or do I wait to get symptoms and DTC codes before acting?
Keep in mind I intend to keep this vehicule a long long time.
Ford tech Makuloco has a good video on it here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8HfyXLf8pc
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jeff (Steelj)November 24, 2016 at 4:14 am #872548
Hey Eric, how u doing? My names Moe I have a 2004 srt4 neon NY transmission has been leaking a bit of transmission fluid it looks like the diff bearings are bad, I can’t afford to get a new one right away but I do drove 25 mins to work and back will I be fine? I do check it every once in a while for the fluid level it’s Manuel by the way.
Happy early thanksgivingNovember 24, 2016 at 4:14 am #872549
Edward st georgeParticipant
HI I have a quick question about motor swaps I have a 96 ram 1500 rwd and wanted to put a hellcat motor would it be possible to do itNovember 24, 2016 at 4:15 am #872550
Hi Eric, Happy Thanksgiving and thank you for answering my question a few months back.
I have another problem now. I had the engine replaced and the shop said they put a new 02 sensor on too. When I left there was no check engine light. I started it up the next day and it threw the p0175 and p0152 codes. The car shakes and seems to have a rough idle when parked or at a stop light. When I put it in neutral the shaking goes away. It also won’t accelerate sometimes and when it finally does shift it surges. It is a 02 Chrysler by the way.
I have no idea what it could be. Thanks for any suggestions and help on this!
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