Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
sounds like you already invested a TON of time and money into this.
This may be a wiring or sensor problem, or the throttle body itself, who knows. But checking related components, and ruling out intake and exhaust, which will only complicated finding the real issue, is a good start.
DO YOU HAVE ADEQUATE POWER?
(obvious) hows your battery.INTAKE
*(obvious) all the vacuum lines are solid? Is there any indication of a vacuum leak? varied idle, high-pitched noise (THANKS ERIC). do you have an inner throttle body hole you can put your finger over to test for a throttle body vacuum leak? idle should drop if so.
If potential idle or vacuum issue, hows your IACV and do you have a fast idle valve on your throttle body? People clean these and MAF sensors as well when diagnosing idle. I think there’s a specific cleaner for MAF sensors, but I wonder if you could use electrical contact cleaner on your other sensor connections.EXHAUST
*If you replaced EGR, you could have a clogged EGR passage somewhere, carbon lurking in air passages.
*if you replaced your oil pan gasket, could be clogged PCV valve causing pressure in the crankcase. I had aftermarket and it caused idle issues as well. (vacuum. THANKS ERIC)CODES
there are a ton of THROTTLE codes. Which one is yours?
P0120-P0124
P0220-P0229
that’s 15 different throttle codes, may be more. Eric has a code look-up function on his site.Not sure if a high-end code reader has the capability of monitoring your MAP, but if it’s a related system like on my car, I would check that next. Gotta wonder about possible tests for the PCM itself.
HERE’S THE DIAGNOSTIC for my accord on MAP AND TP SENSORS, you may find it interesting
MAP SENSOR TEST
1. check the connection at the MAP sensor connector
2. check the terminals within the connector for corrosion or poor contacts causing high resistance
3. repair or replace electrical connections if necessary
4. if code three is detected, an electrical problem in the system may be present
5. remove the electrical connector from the map sensor
6. turn the ignition key to the ON position
7. connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to terminal no.1, the leftmost electrical terminal
8. connect the negative probe to the terminal no.2,the middle electrical terminal harness. do not probe the MAP sensor side
9. with the volt meter connected properly, there should be a 5 volts reference signalTP SENSOR TEST
1. with engine OFF and ignition ON, check the voltage at the signal return circuit of the TP sensor by carefully backprobing the connector using a DVOM
2. voltage should be between 0.2 and 1.4 volts at idle
3. slowly move the throttle pulley to the wide open throttle (WOT) position and watch the DVOM. Voltage should slowly rise to slightly less than 4.8v at WOT.
4. If no voltage is present, check the wiring harness for supply voltage (5.0v) and ground (0.3v or less), by referring to your corresponding wiring guide. If supply voltage and ground are present, but no output voltage from TP, replace the TP sensor. If supply voltage and ground do not meet specifications, make necessary repairs to the harness or PCM.ACCORDING TO MY CHILTON, THE TP SENSOR FOR MY CAR IS A POTENTIOMETER
here’s some wiki links about those types of sensors, may help you in determining what tests are valid. If you find you can resistance test it and it passes, that’s one more item crossed off the list.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Throttle_position_sensor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer_(measuring_instrument)Not sure what type of sensors MAP’s are, but for my car, the chilton says that what the MAP does, is measure and convert intake manifold vacuum into a voltage signal. The higher the vacuum, the lower the voltage signal that is sent to the ECM/PCM.
wiki link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Map_sensorGood luck! gotta go jack my car up and GET DIRTY! now
sounds like you already invested a TON of time and money into this.
This may be a wiring or sensor problem, or the throttle body itself, who knows. But checking related components, and ruling out intake and exhaust, which will only complicated finding the real issue, is a good start.
DO YOU HAVE ADEQUATE POWER?
(obvious) hows your battery.INTAKE
*(obvious) all the vacuum lines are solid? Is there any indication of a vacuum leak? varied idle, high-pitched noise (THANKS ERIC). do you have an inner throttle body hole you can put your finger over to test for a throttle body vacuum leak? idle should drop if so.
If potential idle or vacuum issue, hows your IACV and do you have a fast idle valve on your throttle body? People clean these and MAF sensors as well when diagnosing idle. I think there’s a specific cleaner for MAF sensors, but I wonder if you could use electrical contact cleaner on your other sensor connections.EXHAUST
*If you replaced EGR, you could have a clogged EGR passage somewhere, carbon lurking in air passages.
*if you replaced your oil pan gasket, could be clogged PCV valve causing pressure in the crankcase. I had aftermarket and it caused idle issues as well. (vacuum. THANKS ERIC)CODES
there are a ton of THROTTLE codes. Which one is yours?
P0120-P0124
P0220-P0229
that’s 15 different throttle codes, may be more. Eric has a code look-up function on his site.Not sure if a high-end code reader has the capability of monitoring your MAP, but if it’s a related system like on my car, I would check that next. Gotta wonder about possible tests for the PCM itself.
HERE’S THE DIAGNOSTIC for my accord on MAP AND TP SENSORS, you may find it interesting
MAP SENSOR TEST
1. check the connection at the MAP sensor connector
2. check the terminals within the connector for corrosion or poor contacts causing high resistance
3. repair or replace electrical connections if necessary
4. if code three is detected, an electrical problem in the system may be present
5. remove the electrical connector from the map sensor
6. turn the ignition key to the ON position
7. connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to terminal no.1, the leftmost electrical terminal
8. connect the negative probe to the terminal no.2,the middle electrical terminal harness. do not probe the MAP sensor side
9. with the volt meter connected properly, there should be a 5 volts reference signalTP SENSOR TEST
1. with engine OFF and ignition ON, check the voltage at the signal return circuit of the TP sensor by carefully backprobing the connector using a DVOM
2. voltage should be between 0.2 and 1.4 volts at idle
3. slowly move the throttle pulley to the wide open throttle (WOT) position and watch the DVOM. Voltage should slowly rise to slightly less than 4.8v at WOT.
4. If no voltage is present, check the wiring harness for supply voltage (5.0v) and ground (0.3v or less), by referring to your corresponding wiring guide. If supply voltage and ground are present, but no output voltage from TP, replace the TP sensor. If supply voltage and ground do not meet specifications, make necessary repairs to the harness or PCM.ACCORDING TO MY CHILTON, THE TP SENSOR FOR MY CAR IS A POTENTIOMETER
here’s some wiki links about those types of sensors, may help you in determining what tests are valid. If you find you can resistance test it and it passes, that’s one more item crossed off the list.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Throttle_position_sensor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer_(measuring_instrument)Not sure what type of sensors MAP’s are, but for my car, the chilton says that what the MAP does, is measure and convert intake manifold vacuum into a voltage signal. The higher the vacuum, the lower the voltage signal that is sent to the ECM/PCM.
wiki link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Map_sensorGood luck! gotta go jack my car up and GET DIRTY! now
I’m sure you’ll get a more experienced reply…they don’t usually leave us chicks ‘hangin’. thank god!
*is there a resistance test you can perform on the sensor itself so you don’t have to rely on the voltage readings?
*do you have a scan tool? my low-end tool will pull MIL codes and check the ODB2 monitor readiness status
*Eric’s videos may save your butt. Maybe try ones on intake and exhaust, never know what he can teach you.
*on my Accord, (according to my Chilton) the ECM/PCM compares the TP sensor with the MAP sensor readings, and a discrepancy will cause a MIL lamp.
*how about a vehicle history? What related repairs have been done? not sure if the Duratec is the original throttle body or not.another idea – check out Eric’s g+ page, he does live question/answer every week I think. you could luck out and have him pick your question, he would outline all possibilities for this problem!
https://plus.google.com/100195180196698058780/posts
just trying to help!
I’m sure you’ll get a more experienced reply…they don’t usually leave us chicks ‘hangin’. thank god!
*is there a resistance test you can perform on the sensor itself so you don’t have to rely on the voltage readings?
*do you have a scan tool? my low-end tool will pull MIL codes and check the ODB2 monitor readiness status
*Eric’s videos may save your butt. Maybe try ones on intake and exhaust, never know what he can teach you.
*on my Accord, (according to my Chilton) the ECM/PCM compares the TP sensor with the MAP sensor readings, and a discrepancy will cause a MIL lamp.
*how about a vehicle history? What related repairs have been done? not sure if the Duratec is the original throttle body or not.another idea – check out Eric’s g+ page, he does live question/answer every week I think. you could luck out and have him pick your question, he would outline all possibilities for this problem!
https://plus.google.com/100195180196698058780/posts
just trying to help!
Went out to jack up my car and jack gears wont turn! can’t turn handle at all. 3 ton Craftsman, 2 yrs old. Really hoping it’s just rust and some PB blast will fix it up. Checked the oil level on that and on my 2 ton Torin and both look empty, my bad.
OK well I figured out what the problem was – bad design, not rust. Basically, the two gears don’t mesh well enough, there is too much of a gap between the teeth. This has caused, over the course of 2 short years – one of the gears to slowly dig into the teeth of the other gear. Buying a different brand now, cuz I need a jack….poor me, literally.
EDIT:
well the craftsman lived to fight another day, thought it was toast. Hope the gears don’t completely strip out while it’s in an elevated position, cuz that would suck. Will be looking into extended warranties on any new jacks I buy because ALL THE JACKS ARE MASS PRODUCED! I’m not sure if one brand is better than another, guess I will find out the hard way, trial and error.Went out to jack up my car and jack gears wont turn! can’t turn handle at all. 3 ton Craftsman, 2 yrs old. Really hoping it’s just rust and some PB blast will fix it up. Checked the oil level on that and on my 2 ton Torin and both look empty, my bad.
OK well I figured out what the problem was – bad design, not rust. Basically, the two gears don’t mesh well enough, there is too much of a gap between the teeth. This has caused, over the course of 2 short years – one of the gears to slowly dig into the teeth of the other gear. Buying a different brand now, cuz I need a jack….poor me, literally.
EDIT:
well the craftsman lived to fight another day, thought it was toast. Hope the gears don’t completely strip out while it’s in an elevated position, cuz that would suck. Will be looking into extended warranties on any new jacks I buy because ALL THE JACKS ARE MASS PRODUCED! I’m not sure if one brand is better than another, guess I will find out the hard way, trial and error.I did! Actually I’ve been obsessed with your brake & caliper videos for like 5 days now. What I’m seeing on my brake pads is seriously angled wear. I will take my wheel off tomorrow and take a picture. But it’s flat for most of the pad, then I get a sharp angle at the end, probably a 30 degree angle. It is like that on both sides of the outside pad, and one side of the inside pad. The brakes click and I feel the vibration in the pedal when I brake. Now I also have a mild groaning around corners on that side, guessing that’s the bearing. I was actually planning on trying to junkyard a used hub/bearing assembly, and put on an autozone rotor. I should probably just try new pads first, I just don’t think it’s the pads. I think I fuckered it up. THE REASON I THINK THIS is not because I know stuff about cars–I know jack–it’s because:
a. there was no prior issue with that wheel whatsoever
b. after lowering the car with the hand-tightened lugs, the wheel kindof clunked at an angle when it hit the ground. I must not have had the tire completely centered on the rotor. maybe it was caught up on one of the studs a few threads out or something.
c. I could see, and I mean barely see, I only saw this after taking a wire brush to the whole area, that the hub had a very slight protrusion one side. I wanted to take a picture but my jack decided to quit on me. POS craftsman. I will retract that statement if I fix it.for anyone that cares, here is a picture (from Honda parts cheap) of the difference between the 96 and 98 Accord EX models.
this is my car, hub on outside:
this is the style I don’t have (yeah!) according to Eric, this should be your ‘captive’ rotor type, where you have to press the bearing assembly out of the hub.
EDIT: I’m no longer convinced that I don’t have the ‘captive’ rotors, cuz I just watched the captive rotors video again, and the parts look like my parts, which means I’m taking the axle nut off and getting all crazy with some hammers to do this job. Just my luck. If anyone’s actually reading this, do you think that I could have bent my calipers, too? Just wondering what I need to grab from the junkyard and the thought of junkyard calipers makes me cringe. If it’s actually Eric reading this (wouldn’t I be lucky) do you remember what size the 12pt bolt heads were on the back of the rotor assembly? I don’t have 12 pt sockets. Which # in the top picture would the bolt be? Guessing #22. (I will email Honda parts to try to get a description) Also, I don’t have an air hammer, would a ‘hammer-drill’ work? never used one. Thanks! I would just buy new parts, but I have a hard time spending multiple hundreds of dollars on an old car. Would rather invest in the tools, and probably cheaper anyway, w/ harborfreight 20% off sale coming up. good thing if I need a new jack.
EDIT#2:
hmm, didn’t see any 12pt bolts on the back of my rotor, that doesn’t mean they aren’t hiding. I did find my abs sensor which I will be sure NOT TO MESS WITH!This is my set up:
rotor:
back of rotor, bottom:
back of rotor, top:
last but not least, my jacked up brake pad:
I’m going to start a new topic on my brake pads to get input just on the pad wear and what it might indicate.
I did! Actually I’ve been obsessed with your brake & caliper videos for like 5 days now. What I’m seeing on my brake pads is seriously angled wear. I will take my wheel off tomorrow and take a picture. But it’s flat for most of the pad, then I get a sharp angle at the end, probably a 30 degree angle. It is like that on both sides of the outside pad, and one side of the inside pad. The brakes click and I feel the vibration in the pedal when I brake. Now I also have a mild groaning around corners on that side, guessing that’s the bearing. I was actually planning on trying to junkyard a used hub/bearing assembly, and put on an autozone rotor. I should probably just try new pads first, I just don’t think it’s the pads. I think I fuckered it up. THE REASON I THINK THIS is not because I know stuff about cars–I know jack–it’s because:
a. there was no prior issue with that wheel whatsoever
b. after lowering the car with the hand-tightened lugs, the wheel kindof clunked at an angle when it hit the ground. I must not have had the tire completely centered on the rotor. maybe it was caught up on one of the studs a few threads out or something.
c. I could see, and I mean barely see, I only saw this after taking a wire brush to the whole area, that the hub had a very slight protrusion one side. I wanted to take a picture but my jack decided to quit on me. POS craftsman. I will retract that statement if I fix it.for anyone that cares, here is a picture (from Honda parts cheap) of the difference between the 96 and 98 Accord EX models.
this is my car, hub on outside:
this is the style I don’t have (yeah!) according to Eric, this should be your ‘captive’ rotor type, where you have to press the bearing assembly out of the hub.
EDIT: I’m no longer convinced that I don’t have the ‘captive’ rotors, cuz I just watched the captive rotors video again, and the parts look like my parts, which means I’m taking the axle nut off and getting all crazy with some hammers to do this job. Just my luck. If anyone’s actually reading this, do you think that I could have bent my calipers, too? Just wondering what I need to grab from the junkyard and the thought of junkyard calipers makes me cringe. If it’s actually Eric reading this (wouldn’t I be lucky) do you remember what size the 12pt bolt heads were on the back of the rotor assembly? I don’t have 12 pt sockets. Which # in the top picture would the bolt be? Guessing #22. (I will email Honda parts to try to get a description) Also, I don’t have an air hammer, would a ‘hammer-drill’ work? never used one. Thanks! I would just buy new parts, but I have a hard time spending multiple hundreds of dollars on an old car. Would rather invest in the tools, and probably cheaper anyway, w/ harborfreight 20% off sale coming up. good thing if I need a new jack.
EDIT#2:
hmm, didn’t see any 12pt bolts on the back of my rotor, that doesn’t mean they aren’t hiding. I did find my abs sensor which I will be sure NOT TO MESS WITH!This is my set up:
rotor:
back of rotor, bottom:
back of rotor, top:
last but not least, my jacked up brake pad:
I’m going to start a new topic on my brake pads to get input just on the pad wear and what it might indicate.
THANKS for the replies to my post. Also wondering, with a hefty gun like this, can I safely REMOVE smaller fasteners? I wouldn’t use the wrench to install these fasteners, I think that would be bad. While on the topic of removing fasteners, I’ve read that impact + heat is the way to go (plus penetrating oil) for stubborn bolts. How hot should the heat be? Is a micro butane torch going to do anything? I’m getting a cheapie heat gun to try to help remove glued on spark plug seals on my valve cover, which advertises over 1000f. I’m guessing any type of open flame could surpass this, don’t really know. just fishing for opinions.
on an unrelated note, is there anything as satisfying as chillin’ and watching ETCG videos? just want to make popcorn and enjoy 🙂
EDIT: yes working on my car is funner than watching videos…..especially when I don’t break anything! note also that the heat gun SUCKED for my glued on spark plug tube seals.
AND OF COURSE ERIC ALREADY ANSWERED MY STUCK BOLT QUESTION with one of his videos…
how to use a torch to remove rusty bolts!! exciting.
THANKS for the replies to my post. Also wondering, with a hefty gun like this, can I safely REMOVE smaller fasteners? I wouldn’t use the wrench to install these fasteners, I think that would be bad. While on the topic of removing fasteners, I’ve read that impact + heat is the way to go (plus penetrating oil) for stubborn bolts. How hot should the heat be? Is a micro butane torch going to do anything? I’m getting a cheapie heat gun to try to help remove glued on spark plug seals on my valve cover, which advertises over 1000f. I’m guessing any type of open flame could surpass this, don’t really know. just fishing for opinions.
on an unrelated note, is there anything as satisfying as chillin’ and watching ETCG videos? just want to make popcorn and enjoy 🙂
EDIT: yes working on my car is funner than watching videos…..especially when I don’t break anything! note also that the heat gun SUCKED for my glued on spark plug tube seals.
AND OF COURSE ERIC ALREADY ANSWERED MY STUCK BOLT QUESTION with one of his videos…
how to use a torch to remove rusty bolts!! exciting.
AND THE WINNER IS…..the same wrench I already returned to h-freight. just bought it again. not cordless, but at $40 on sale, just seemed like the most bang for my buck, (230 ft/lbs torque), so my junkyard forays aren’t going to be super-stylin’ as of yet. someday.
any tips on not destroying studs and bolts? I found I didn’t really have the knack for ‘sensing’ when to stop and have hence come to learn from experience that fasteners, especially small ones, are FRAGILE! some of them are so damn tiny. thanks again!
AND THE WINNER IS…..the same wrench I already returned to h-freight. just bought it again. not cordless, but at $40 on sale, just seemed like the most bang for my buck, (230 ft/lbs torque), so my junkyard forays aren’t going to be super-stylin’ as of yet. someday.
any tips on not destroying studs and bolts? I found I didn’t really have the knack for ‘sensing’ when to stop and have hence come to learn from experience that fasteners, especially small ones, are FRAGILE! some of them are so damn tiny. thanks again!
well the spark plugs were out from the get-go, I had watched eric’s valve adjustment video for accord, which I just pulled up again to try to locate a model year for the accord, which I couldn’t see, but its a 4-cyl vtec like mine in the video, and it looks old. he is rotating the power steering pump pulley counterclockwise in the video. after hitting a bump in the road I went to my Chilton which told me to take off the upper t/b cover and rotate the crankshaft in a counterclockwise position to tdc, so I know the counterclockwise is correct for this engine, which my model accord (EX) has the f22b1 engine but the Chilton doesn’t specify different procedures for other capacity engines (which it will if the procedure varies from the v6, etc.) so this should be an across the board procedure for similar model cars. the Chilton I’m using is a Honda accord/prelude 1996-00.
the car is on jackstands right now w/ only rear wheels touching ground, and I didn’t check if I set a gear, but I usually put it in 1st when I put it on jackstands. just a little more info, if relevant.
unfortunately didn’t get my t/b cover off, gotta go to harbor freight tomorrow morning (on my bike) 🙂 and get some offset wrenches cuz one of the screws holding it on has very limited access room, with the dipstick directly behind it.
THANKS EVERYONE for the info! very appreciative, being new to all of this. I’m going to watch the valve lash video again all the way thru and if it doesn’t have the model year for this accord I will try to personal msg eric on his g+ to let him know.
YAY eric wrote me back. I feel special. also very helpful cuz I was thinking, how the hell do I tighten this pulley bolt, googling the topic and seeing ‘pulley pliers’ to adjust tension on these bolts and all that. super, sounds like I didn’t break anything.
EDIT: according to the chilton, the valve adjustment specs are as follows:
1996, 2.2L engines (F22A1, F22B1, F22B2): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1996 2.2L H22A1 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1996 2.3L H23A1 engine: IN: .003-.004, EX: .006-.007
1996 2.7L C27A4 engine: IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.0131997, 2.2L engines (F22A1, F22B1, F22B2): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1997 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1997 2.7L C27A4 engine: IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.0131998 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1998 2.3L engines, (F23A1, F23A4, F23A5): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1998 3.0L J30A1 engine, IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.0131999 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1999 2.3L engines, (F23A1, F23A4, F23A5): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1999 3.0L J30A1 engine, IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.0132000 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
2000 2.3L engines, (F23A1, F23A4, F23A5): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
2000 3.0L J30A1 engine, IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.013it looks like from these specs that
*all 2.2 and 2.3L accords in this year range are .010in .012ex
*the C27A4 engines use same .010in .012 specs, but there is no reference to this model engine after 1997, curious as to what this car was
*the prelude (guessing) is the H series and uses a slightly smaller clearance, but remains constant at .006-.007intake, .007-.008EX, from the transition from the H22A1 to the H22A4. the H23A1 model (different clearance) is not mentioned after 1996
*in 1998 we have the introduction of the J30A1 3.0L (v6?), IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.013ALSO WANTED TO ADD that the Chilton manuals don’t tell you everything about your car! so just because there’s only one valve adjustment procedure specified, doesn’t mean all these model cars have similar engines. it just means that there is no significant difference in the procedure between models. it may even assume that you already know which direction the crankshaft rotates for your vehicle.
there is a great amount of variation even in these accords. for example, (according to the Chilton 🙂 )the ignition systems on the 3.0L V6’s from 2000+ were significantly different than earlier models, switching to a ‘distributorless’ system where there is a separate ignition coil for each cylinder, and the signal to ignite is sent by the pcm rather than the distributor. ignition timing cannot be adjusted on these models, it’s purely electronic. just an example.
well the spark plugs were out from the get-go, I had watched eric’s valve adjustment video for accord, which I just pulled up again to try to locate a model year for the accord, which I couldn’t see, but its a 4-cyl vtec like mine in the video, and it looks old. he is rotating the power steering pump pulley counterclockwise in the video. after hitting a bump in the road I went to my Chilton which told me to take off the upper t/b cover and rotate the crankshaft in a counterclockwise position to tdc, so I know the counterclockwise is correct for this engine, which my model accord (EX) has the f22b1 engine but the Chilton doesn’t specify different procedures for other capacity engines (which it will if the procedure varies from the v6, etc.) so this should be an across the board procedure for similar model cars. the Chilton I’m using is a Honda accord/prelude 1996-00.
the car is on jackstands right now w/ only rear wheels touching ground, and I didn’t check if I set a gear, but I usually put it in 1st when I put it on jackstands. just a little more info, if relevant.
unfortunately didn’t get my t/b cover off, gotta go to harbor freight tomorrow morning (on my bike) 🙂 and get some offset wrenches cuz one of the screws holding it on has very limited access room, with the dipstick directly behind it.
THANKS EVERYONE for the info! very appreciative, being new to all of this. I’m going to watch the valve lash video again all the way thru and if it doesn’t have the model year for this accord I will try to personal msg eric on his g+ to let him know.
YAY eric wrote me back. I feel special. also very helpful cuz I was thinking, how the hell do I tighten this pulley bolt, googling the topic and seeing ‘pulley pliers’ to adjust tension on these bolts and all that. super, sounds like I didn’t break anything.
EDIT: according to the chilton, the valve adjustment specs are as follows:
1996, 2.2L engines (F22A1, F22B1, F22B2): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1996 2.2L H22A1 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1996 2.3L H23A1 engine: IN: .003-.004, EX: .006-.007
1996 2.7L C27A4 engine: IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.0131997, 2.2L engines (F22A1, F22B1, F22B2): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1997 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1997 2.7L C27A4 engine: IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.0131998 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1998 2.3L engines, (F23A1, F23A4, F23A5): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1998 3.0L J30A1 engine, IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.0131999 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
1999 2.3L engines, (F23A1, F23A4, F23A5): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
1999 3.0L J30A1 engine, IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.0132000 2.2L H22A4 engine: IN: .006-.007, EX: .007-.008
2000 2.3L engines, (F23A1, F23A4, F23A5): IN: .009-.011, EX: .011-.013
2000 3.0L J30A1 engine, IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.013it looks like from these specs that
*all 2.2 and 2.3L accords in this year range are .010in .012ex
*the C27A4 engines use same .010in .012 specs, but there is no reference to this model engine after 1997, curious as to what this car was
*the prelude (guessing) is the H series and uses a slightly smaller clearance, but remains constant at .006-.007intake, .007-.008EX, from the transition from the H22A1 to the H22A4. the H23A1 model (different clearance) is not mentioned after 1996
*in 1998 we have the introduction of the J30A1 3.0L (v6?), IN: .008-.009, EX: .011-.013ALSO WANTED TO ADD that the Chilton manuals don’t tell you everything about your car! so just because there’s only one valve adjustment procedure specified, doesn’t mean all these model cars have similar engines. it just means that there is no significant difference in the procedure between models. it may even assume that you already know which direction the crankshaft rotates for your vehicle.
there is a great amount of variation even in these accords. for example, (according to the Chilton 🙂 )the ignition systems on the 3.0L V6’s from 2000+ were significantly different than earlier models, switching to a ‘distributorless’ system where there is a separate ignition coil for each cylinder, and the signal to ignite is sent by the pcm rather than the distributor. ignition timing cannot be adjusted on these models, it’s purely electronic. just an example.
hooray, my dash temp gauge works! that’s good news, didn’t want to replace the gauge cluster. this single wire comes straight out from where its connected, I held the plastic connector with a pair of pliers, and took a small pry bar leveraged in between the plastic connector and the metal sending unit assembly and just popped the unit out. I’m glad I didn’t try to pry open the plastic connector.
i cut the end off a low voltage test lead, stripped about an inch of plastic casing off the cut end, twisted the exposed end and doubled it over, and shoved that into the plastic connector. clipped the alligator clip on the other end of the lead to a bolt head on the cylinder block. then I put the ignition to on, and the needle went straight to hot in less than a half second. you’re not supposed to let it reach the hot mark, it could damage the gauge, but oh well.
now I know the gauge works, the manuals say to test the resistance of the sending unit itself.
here’s the procedure if you don’t have a manual:
*with engine cold, use an ohmmeter to measure resistance between the positive terminal and the engine (ground)
*check the temperature of the coolant
*run the engine and measure the change in resistance with the engine at operating temperature (radiator fan comes on)
*if obtained readings are substantially different from spec, replace the sending unitspecs:
temp 56c(133f), resistance 142
temp 85c(185f)-100c(212f), resistance 49-32(ohms)now I am a rookie (obviously! ha ha) and I can’t see how if your sending unit passes the resistance test what else you would check after that. anyway, I’m going to go ahead and do that but I can’t run my car right now cuz some fuel components are disconnected so its gonna have to wait. will be using my harbor freight cheapie multimeter that I got for FREE with a coupon there so hope its up to the task.
EDIT:
well, for the first time since owning this car, I’m getting a response from the dash temp gauge while the car is running. After replacing my thermostat, coolant temp switch, and ‘shocking’ the ect sending unit back to life, not sure which one did it, it works. Never went as far as measuring resistance on the unit itself. After peeling back the rubber on the connector (unnecessarily), I had to rig something to cover the wires again so I took an inch of plastic tubing, the pre-cut kind designed to wrap around wires, put that over the plastic connector, gave it a few wraps w/ electrical tape, and am currently hoping the tape doesn’t melt. Actually have duct tape over some air box fittings which disintegrated when I pulled the air box out to work on the thermostat, too. don’t laugh.
