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Just wanted to see if the problem got fixed. I know the guy says its not the idle but more like transmission vibrating because of the car doing it when in gear only..;)
Just wanted to see if the problem got fixed. I know the guy says its not the idle but more like transmission vibrating because of the car doing it when in gear only..;)
I would go to the CEL problem first. Check your work done, wires, with a diagram to make sure you put everything back on correctly..
Nope, its not at a dealer. But they’ve replaced with ones from a salvage yard. Were its at there saying a new one runs $1300.00. (the whole distributor). That’s why I was wondering. The car is in a little shop and they were telling him he needs to decide what to do. But they probably already did something by now.
I remember running into this same problem. I bought an alternator from autozone, installed it, Ofcourse battery was already charged and ready to go, then, about the second day I notice a bit of a battery light come on and off ever so swiftly. Around the fourth day Bam, no go so took everything off recharged the battery, tested the alternator and they kept telling me it was good, did this for like a month. Finally just says screw it, went to the junkyard, took an alternator off another car, made sure it was oem and guess what happened….viola! Problem solved. So I will never buy anything electrical from those places. Trust me, dealer parts are well worth the headaches.
I recall hearing Eric say to flush the heater core with a garden hose both ways to ensure proper dislodge of any foreign stuff. I did that exact same thing to my father in laws car after he took it to his trusty mechanic and right of the bat wanted to charge him 400 bills to fix it. After a lil bit talking to him and gathering evidence, (he loves fixes in a bottle and showed me all the stuff he had bought that claimed to plug leaks and such). I decided to attack the problem. Hooked up the hose and let it run, on both hoses for about 5 min on each. hey it worked. Hope to hear the results.
Last time I had that issue, the spring blades were bent, bearly but enough to keep me tied up all day.
I think the scan tool is used only if your going to bleed the abs unit itself and not the brake lines. If your just doing the brake system then you can do it in the conventional manner. Oh. and when bleeding, try to bleed according to how the system works.
I’ve not used the starter method but have used a tire combo wrench along with a jack stand to loosen that bolt. It worked out pretty good. Now if I have to deal with that, ill just use my 3/4 in rachet that’s like 2 ft long and bam!