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[David Reyes]

[quote=”johnbkobb” post=34604]http://www.ehow.com/list_7349269_automotive-computer-reprogramming-tools.html[/quote]

Thanks for the links will check it out…

[David Reyes]

[quote=”jacobnbr1″ post=34591]Reflash? Sure I can help.. First off to correct a comment from another user you cannot adjust program files that would reflect an illegal program as Mazda will not allow those changes. You need a windows vista laptop, flasher pro or equivalent, valid subscription to Mazda service information and if the vehicle has a transponder key you will need a PIN number from Mazda to allow registration of those keys and then the tool to interface with the theft module to input the PIN and register the keys with theft.

All in all you will spend about $6000.00 for a service the dealer will charge $150.00 tops.

How bad does the $150.00 sound now?[/quote]

Thanks for the Info Jacob It was not my intention to upset you.

David…

[David Reyes]

[quote=”jacobnbr1″ post=34591]Reflash? Sure I can help.. First off to correct a comment from another user you cannot adjust program files that would reflect an illegal program as Mazda will not allow those changes. You need a windows vista laptop, flasher pro or equivalent, valid subscription to Mazda service information and if the vehicle has a transponder key you will need a PIN number from Mazda to allow registration of those keys and then the tool to interface with the theft module to input the PIN and register the keys with theft.

All in all you will spend about $6000.00 for a service the dealer will charge $150.00 tops.

How bad does the $150.00 sound now?[/quote]

Thanks for the Info Jacob It was not my intention to upset you.

David…

[David Reyes]

[quote=”dreamer2355″ post=34573][quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?

Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?

Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)

Thanks Very much[/quote]

The IDS is a dealer only scan tool unfortunately.

As for the code P0126, you can ohm out the ECT without a scan tool. As the temperature increases, the resistance should decrease or increase depending on the ECT sensor type (PTC or NTC). You would need to cross reference these readings with a chart to see how ‘hot’ the coolant really is.

With a scan tool that shows PID data, you could look at the ECT readings and disconnect the sensor. You should see a reading in the negative range. Also when disconnected, you can jumper that connector and the readings on the scan tool should show 200F+ range.

That will check the integrity of the ECT circuit providing its a 2 wire design.

If the readings do not change, you may have a wiring issue.

I would make sure you have a OEM thermostat installed as that seems to be a common issue with later model Mazda’s with that same code.

I would also on a cold engine, monitor (again with a scan tool that shows PID data) your IAT and ECT readings. They both should be within a few degree’s of each other.[/quote]

Thanks Very much for the info.

PID = Live Data on my scanner?

Will check this and get back to you

Apology for the delay but I just found the pages numbers to see this post

David…

[David Reyes]

[quote=”dreamer2355″ post=34573][quote=”carattini” post=34482]Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?

Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?

Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)

Thanks Very much[/quote]

The IDS is a dealer only scan tool unfortunately.

As for the code P0126, you can ohm out the ECT without a scan tool. As the temperature increases, the resistance should decrease or increase depending on the ECT sensor type (PTC or NTC). You would need to cross reference these readings with a chart to see how ‘hot’ the coolant really is.

With a scan tool that shows PID data, you could look at the ECT readings and disconnect the sensor. You should see a reading in the negative range. Also when disconnected, you can jumper that connector and the readings on the scan tool should show 200F+ range.

That will check the integrity of the ECT circuit providing its a 2 wire design.

If the readings do not change, you may have a wiring issue.

I would make sure you have a OEM thermostat installed as that seems to be a common issue with later model Mazda’s with that same code.

I would also on a cold engine, monitor (again with a scan tool that shows PID data) your IAT and ECT readings. They both should be within a few degree’s of each other.[/quote]

Thanks Very much for the info.

PID = Live Data on my scanner?

Will check this and get back to you

Apology for the delay but I just found the pages numbers to see this post

David…

[David Reyes]

Hi

First you need to make shure you have the tree basic elements
1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Spark

Since you don’t have fuel pump sound make shure the pump is working. Since you already change the fuel filter you can go their again disconect one side and put ths switch on the ON psition just before chrank (But don’t chrank) and see if fuel comes out of the line. if no fuel comes out you culd have a problem with the fuel pomp.

But this does’t mean that the pomp is bad you need to check that the pomp is receven voltage in order to work yu may check the relay for the pomp an see if it is wirking you could also check fuses to see if any is blown.

Check that the fuel is present and let me know.

David…

[David Reyes]

Hi

First you need to make shure you have the tree basic elements
1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Spark

Since you don’t have fuel pump sound make shure the pump is working. Since you already change the fuel filter you can go their again disconect one side and put ths switch on the ON psition just before chrank (But don’t chrank) and see if fuel comes out of the line. if no fuel comes out you culd have a problem with the fuel pomp.

But this does’t mean that the pomp is bad you need to check that the pomp is receven voltage in order to work yu may check the relay for the pomp an see if it is wirking you could also check fuses to see if any is blown.

Check that the fuel is present and let me know.

David…

[David Reyes]

Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?

Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?

Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)

Thanks Very much

[David Reyes]

Do you know How mucho that Ford IDS cost? where can I Buy one?

Will it work only on fords Mazda or will it work with others as well?

Where you sugest to mesure the Voltage drop? (From Battery to computer? or Battery to ECT?)

Thanks Very much

[David Reyes]

Thanks Very Much for your Input:

My intention is not to modify parameters just to Update the complete programming with an actual vertion from factory.

But the reason I’m Willing to invest in the tool is that I’ll want to learn to modify parametters and have a better performance on my vehicles.

The tool that I’m Looking at is 70-1100 FLASH2 but need to sell one of my cars to get it, was hoping somebody have a cheeper alternative.

I check and their is a bulletin for a reflash but it is not a recall and I think they will charge for it.

Thanks again for taking the time to help.

David…

[David Reyes]

Thanks Very Much for your Input:

My intention is not to modify parameters just to Update the complete programming with an actual vertion from factory.

But the reason I’m Willing to invest in the tool is that I’ll want to learn to modify parametters and have a better performance on my vehicles.

The tool that I’m Looking at is 70-1100 FLASH2 but need to sell one of my cars to get it, was hoping somebody have a cheeper alternative.

I check and their is a bulletin for a reflash but it is not a recall and I think they will charge for it.

Thanks again for taking the time to help.

David…

[David Reyes]

Thanks very much for the Link

[David Reyes]

Thanks very much for the Link

[David Reyes]

Thanks very much But I just fix that:

It Has a New Battery and a New Alternator a new Baterry Terminals.

As for the Thermostat the computer Live Data Display Very Logic Values. What I need to test is the Thermostat it self wich will do this weekend.

The problem is that the computer is thowing P0126 that translate to that it never reach 160F while the Live Data on the scanner Display Temp between 150 to 179 F (That Part is what don’t make sence)

Thanks Again for your Time.

[David Reyes]

Thanks very much But I just fix that:

It Has a New Battery and a New Alternator a new Baterry Terminals.

As for the Thermostat the computer Live Data Display Very Logic Values. What I need to test is the Thermostat it self wich will do this weekend.

The problem is that the computer is thowing P0126 that translate to that it never reach 160F while the Live Data on the scanner Display Temp between 150 to 179 F (That Part is what don’t make sence)

Thanks Again for your Time.

[Author]

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