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Finally my truck have a check engine light:
Code #1 = P2196
O2 sensor signal stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1Code #2 = P2198
O2 Semsor signal struck rich bank 2 sensor 1This is a OBDI so an old computer tat the programming is in a chip that I had to transfer from the old computer.
My name is David. Please forgive me for this long message
I have a 1989 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GTA 5.7LAfter a month sitting on the garage I tried to start it up and it will crank but not start.
I check the fuel pressure with a gage and I have Fuel.
I check for Spark on Number one Spark Cable and had no spark.
I proceeded to check Spark coming from the Coil and had no Spark
I then check for the signal coming from the Ignition Module to the Coil and no signal detected. But it did had the 12 volt on the red wire
I got the distributor Cover off and found that the pin that connects to the center port where the coil fires into was broken and no spring motion to the part that was left. (AJA Moment)
I check for the voltage on the pickup coil and the result where steady not fluctuating.
My hypothesis at this point was that when I started the car the piece broke and the hi voltage from the coil become like a (EMP) and damage the surrounding electronics.I replace the Pickup Coil. Tested it and the voltage fluctuated a lot better than with the old one
I replace the Ignition module and tested it to send a signal to the coil and it did
I replace the ignition coil and tested it to fire and it did.Put everything back together and give it a try. Since I had taken the distributor out I had to do the basic timing so I disconnected the computer brown cable that control the timing and start the car and it started at his point I believe my problem was over.
I did the initial timing 6 degrees BTDC.
Then I connected the Brown computer cable I started the engine again and this was very bad so bad that it stall and died.At this point I’m thinking that it may be the computer but don’t know if it’s wrong input or the computer itself. So I decided to replace the computer and when I put the new computer I first started the car with the brown cable disconnected.
Put the base timing again
Then I connected the brown cable back and started the engine and it started at hi Idle for about 30 seconds and then it stall like before. Try a few times and it can’t keep idle with the computer connected.Since the computer is remanufactured I believe I have some input to the computer bad but need to know what to check next.
Sorry for the long message please help.Thanks for the info:
What do you mean by Smoke Machine? I’ve seen mechanic do this with vacuum hose to detect leaks. one also use a cigar to do this if you don’t have a machine.
Thanks for the info:
What do you mean by Smoke Machine? I’ve seen mechanic do this with vacuum hose to detect leaks. one also use a cigar to do this if you don’t have a machine.
Why the fluid coming out of the Diff is Red ande the one going in is transparent if you are using the factory requerid suff?
Why the fluid coming out of the Diff is Red ande the one going in is transparent if you are using the factory requerid suff?
[quote=”Noisy” post=46566][quote=”SpawnedX” post=46560]That’s not true. All oils are rated in weight cold and warm. The 5w in 5w-30 is the cold weight, so 5w-30 synthetic or conventional, has the same viscosity cold.[/quote]
Um, no. See the chart in the middle of this page:
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/long-engine-life.php%5B/quote%5DI agree the donat rating does not tell you how good an oil is just that it passed a test but how good does it pass the test you could have an A+ passing or C- (Using sochool grades) both pass but not both are as good.
I Wee all car lovers like the best for Our cars so maybe it is an over kill to use Full Syntec Oil but it is my car and I whant to protect it as good as I can. but if you live on extreame weather temps I sugest you use Full Syntec (If you can pay for it) or if you do Extreame with your vehice.
It have bean said that better Oil does not mean extended changes and I agree but if you have an Oil that is better will then last longer and if not on extreame condition will be true.
I Use Mobile One Extender Performence Full Syntetic wich State on the bottle it is good for 15K miles and my Toyota tacoma says to change it evry 5K and to use full syntec so I go 7 to 10K with this oil and when I chenge it it still have the feel of a new Oil
Thats my 5 Cents on the matter.
David…
[quote=”Noisy” post=46566][quote=”SpawnedX” post=46560]That’s not true. All oils are rated in weight cold and warm. The 5w in 5w-30 is the cold weight, so 5w-30 synthetic or conventional, has the same viscosity cold.[/quote]
Um, no. See the chart in the middle of this page:
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/long-engine-life.php%5B/quote%5DI agree the donat rating does not tell you how good an oil is just that it passed a test but how good does it pass the test you could have an A+ passing or C- (Using sochool grades) both pass but not both are as good.
I Wee all car lovers like the best for Our cars so maybe it is an over kill to use Full Syntec Oil but it is my car and I whant to protect it as good as I can. but if you live on extreame weather temps I sugest you use Full Syntec (If you can pay for it) or if you do Extreame with your vehice.
It have bean said that better Oil does not mean extended changes and I agree but if you have an Oil that is better will then last longer and if not on extreame condition will be true.
I Use Mobile One Extender Performence Full Syntetic wich State on the bottle it is good for 15K miles and my Toyota tacoma says to change it evry 5K and to use full syntec so I go 7 to 10K with this oil and when I chenge it it still have the feel of a new Oil
Thats my 5 Cents on the matter.
David…
[quote=”SpawnedX” post=46080]There is no science to support that synthetic is going to cause leaks or more noise. What seems, and seems to be proven more likely, is that the engine was sludged up and worn and basically that sludge was taken up all the space that your seals no longer did and then when synthetic, which is generally much higher in detergents, came in, it started cleaning up that sludge and eventually the seals were left on their own to do the job.
Switching to synthetic and getting leaks and noises generally tells you, your car was not well maintained.[/quote]
Anothe one on my teem…
[quote=”SpawnedX” post=46080]There is no science to support that synthetic is going to cause leaks or more noise. What seems, and seems to be proven more likely, is that the engine was sludged up and worn and basically that sludge was taken up all the space that your seals no longer did and then when synthetic, which is generally much higher in detergents, came in, it started cleaning up that sludge and eventually the seals were left on their own to do the job.
Switching to synthetic and getting leaks and noises generally tells you, your car was not well maintained.[/quote]
Anothe one on my teem…