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[quote=”gmule” post=166465]
Looking at your picture it does not appear yours has the reliefs by the switch. Of course my unit is sealed so I can’t separate the halves by removing the screws because there are none. :unsure:[/quote]Yeah, this is the replacement switch that’s on it’s way,
I just don’t like “forcing” electronics.Force a motor mount – sure. 😛
Force a glued circuit board – yeah, DON’T do that! :ohmy:Thanks for your support, 😉
CloudThank you for your reply gmule. 🙂
[quote=”gmule” post=166324]A lot of us own power probes the only problem is that they are not broken so we haven’t had to take them apart to see if we could fix it. Have you called and talked to tech support and asked them ?[/quote]
I can do that? :huh: I didn’t know that there was “tech support” at power probe. :blush:
I will give them a call today. 😛Thanks again,
CloudHello,
It is starting to appear that out of 27,732 users on this forum, that only Power Prob II. :dry:
Really? What are the odds of that? :whistle:
Hmmm….Be Safe,
Cloud[quote=”gmule” post=165360]Is this a crank no start situation or no crank no start?[/quote]
Original poster’s words
I put a starter and nothing.
I am lead to believe that it is a “no crank no start”, due to the use of the word “nothing”.
There are so many possible causes that the Original Poster (OP) should follow the link to the video and start at the beginning, the battery.My Thoughts,
CloudOh hell yeah. Those coils are soooooo suspects. Arrest those bastards and get them outta there.
Really think that your prob will go away once you get the right coils on there.
Buster is the best!!!
All 7 of them, but that is a story for another time. There really is a tie to all that happened to Cloud that I can relate.
Best,
Cloud[quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165726]Thanks for taking the time to help me with this Cloud.[/quote]
Your welcome[quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165726]In terms of performance the only real issue I’m facing now is a bit of a rough shift into reverse when cold, vibrations at idle in reverse (less noticeable, but still present at idle in drive). [/quote]
Is the idle speed within spec? If not, it needs to be.
Rough shift is not an engine performance issue, it is a transmission issue.[quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165726]No coolant leaks, but a slight oil pan gasket leak at the timing belt end where the pan curves (it’s been done by the shop twice in two months so I’ve pretty much up on getting a leak free job. The first was with a felpro gasket and that leaked tons through every bolt hole, second was “oem style” and so far I can just see a drip forming, nothing on the ground)[/quote]
My truth=An OEM gasket correctly installed does not leak.
Anything else, a.k.a. “oem style”, “oem equivalent” , etcetera, can leak because they are trying to make a gasket that is less expensive than the OEM (Honda) gasket. If they are in fact actually using a Honda gasket and it leaks, they are not installing it correctly.If it is actually the front main seal that is leaking (replacing the oil pan gasket (FelPro or OEM, will not stop the leak)
OR the oil from the oil pan leak is somehow getting into the timing belt area, and it gets on the timing belt, the belt will deteriorate at an accelerated rate.[quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165726]As for experience I’ve done the power steering rack and radiator myself. I can surely crack the top belt cover to inspect it.[/quote]
Awesome!![quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165726]I’m wondering if I should tackle the rear mount myself. Many say it’s a chore to get one of the bolts out though, but I think if I tackled that I’d be a bit more confident doing the timing belt.[/quote]
*smiles*
From my viewpoint inspecting a timing belt is far simpler and less effort than changing a rear motor mount on most vehicles.Did a Google search “How do I change the rear motor mount on a 1991 Honda Civic” and found this.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/92049-diy-88-91-civic-d-series-innovative-motor-mount-install.html
This covers all three motor mounts (WITH PICTURES!!)
One of the pics even shows the timing belt.[quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165726]I’m glad you mention your 86 was non-interference though, gives me a little bit more against most everything I’ve read that says most Hondas are interference.[/quote]
PAY ATTENTION: Just because a 1986 Honda Civic 1.5 is a non-interference engine, a 1991 Honda Civic MAY be an interference engine.
Hello,
I have had a 1972 Honda GL1100 Aspencade and dealt with some electrical issues.
I believe that it is best to think of electricity as water (you do NOT want to get wet :woohoo: )
Voltage is the “pressure” and Amperage as the “flow” (getting dripped on is way different than being sprayed :ohmy: )
I even removed the cap when it was running and you can see as i rev it up the leads jiggeling open and closed properly.
Please be extremely careful with operating in this matter as “water” can leak places you don’t want it to, especially “on” you!
So your battery is a sponge and collects water from the stator until it is saturated and at that point, the voltage regulator should tell the stator to stop sending “water” to the battery.
You say that your bike operates “normally” when the battery is charged or new (has a full charge) for a couple hours. This is because the battery is saturated with “water” and has plenty to give.
You went on to say that the voltage regulator is operating “as it should”
… the power would cut off under about 12.4 volts as it should.
.
Okay, just trying to help you understand how electricity “works”.
On with the problem that you are having.
EASIEST
While not likely, best to check for a Parasitic Draw with the key removed. Eric has a video on this. If it does have a parasitic draw, this would drain the battery and upon start-up, the stator is immediately trying to charge the battery, but because you are using a good amount of power to operate the bike (don’t forget that the head light is on and that it draws a lot of power).
So with a parasitic draw, the stator never gets the chance to get the battery back where it belongs at full charge.NOT SO EASY
Honda GL series had a similar problem.
There is a snap connector from the stator to the wiring harness and due to such a high load / draw, the connectors would slowly “burn-up” and lose contact. Recommended solution: solder the wires directly to the stator to ensure good flow of electricity to the electrical system.Here is my thought. You have a contact at the stator (I believe that there are three {3} ) that is having trouble allowing full current to flow.
I know you said you tested it and the voltage regulator, but usually people test at the source, not further down the “line”, say at the battery.
Again, be careful how you connect your tester to determine if the battery is getting power.Bottom line: If the stator is turning, it should be putting out voltage – PERIOD.
You can verify this by contacting any local large electrical motor repair shop (not Radio Shack :silly: ).Perhaps this will help. I hope so.
Remember that this is only my opinion and I am not a Suzuki Motorcycle Factory Certified Technician.Best of luck,
CloudHello,
Applying heat will release most adhesives.
That said a hair dryer will work (slower).
Although a Heat Gun will work faster (be careful or you could actually burn stuff)Best of luck,
CloudHello,
Seems normal to me. Especially with the tranny cooler in front of the radiator. Tranny works harder with a load and therefore generates more heat.
Same thing applies to the engine as well.
Here’s some info about thermostats that may help.Thermostat Temperatures
>> Thermostats have a “rated” temperature such as 180F or 195F
>> This is the temperature the thermostat WILL START TO OPEN, give or take 3 degrees
>> The thermostat fully open about 15-20 degrees ABOVE its rated temperature
>> Many thermostats have a “jiggle pin” or “check valve” that allows trapped air in the cooling system to pass through the thermostat and be released from the system.
>> If a Stant thermostat does not have a jiggle pin, it will have a “bleed notch” or other method of removing air from the system.
Obtained from http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/products/consumer-products/thermostats/abcs-thermostats/
Be Well,
Cloud[quote=”Hockeyclark” post=165179]
So I told him that it was really obvious that the truck isn’t getting any fuel. I took the fuse box apart and put my thumb on the fuel pump relay and it clicked when he turned on the key. I put my hand on the fuel pump and it wasn’t doing anything. So I told him it either the pump is dead (He just replaced it) or it’s not getting any power. It’s a pretty simple diagnosis, I think. I haven’t been able to get over there with a multimeter or anything but I know I am on the right track.
[/quote]Hello,
Not charging labor is a nice touch. 😉
Four things –
1. Careful with assumptions (bad fuel pump that was “just replaced”). Could be clogged fuel filter, a clogged fuel line (doubt it), a kink in the fuel line (I’ve seen this). I know, you said the pump didn’t run, but the previous conditions may cause pump to overheat. Shouldn’t, but could.2, Be cautious with wiring (accidentally touching this or that can cause problems (hopefully just a fuse)
3. Sitting vehicles are homes for rodents and a lot of petroleum based seals fail (as they deteriorate by hardening due to lack of lubrication).
Rodents love to chew wires and fill various locations with nesting materials (which they usually get from the vehicle – grrrr!!).4. Remember “Do No Harm”. If there is an area of repair that you are not familiar with and after gaining knowledge on technique from the internet, videos, or books, but are still wondering, Stop and think about whether you truly can perform and complete the task (repair) fully and correctly.
Thank you for helping our Veterans!!
I served 2 terms myself.Best of luck,
Cloud[quote=”nvc_wildcat” post=165699]I had it done with the water pump at 220k km, and I’m pushing 250k now.
I reckon I will get it done again when the time comes, but at these kms I’m starting to worry about the be all end all engine killers. What if a seal start leaking oil onto it and so forth.
If I could get some confirmation on this I’d rest a bit easier.[/quote]
Hello,
This is information that I didn’t know earlier.
I have replaced the timing belt on a 1986 Honda Civic 1.5 after timing belt failure some time ago (luckily it was a non-interference engine).
The issue that stands out for that job was that an after-market gasket did not seal, and I had to go back and replace with an original manufacturer’s (Honda) seal (free labor, woo hoo).That was a few KMs ago and it is my opinion that would be about 1/3 of the timing belts life (96-160km),
PROVIDED that the vehicle was driven “normally”,
there are no coolant leaks around the water pump,
no oil leaks around the camshaft or crankshaft seals,
all associated parts were replaced (seals, gaskets, tension spring)
nothing else entering the path of the timing belt assembly and fasteners were tightened to specified torque so that no parts came loose.This is why getting the work done at a quality shop with qualified technicians/mechanics – so that you get a WARRANTY.
Are you planning to do the work yourself? Or are you just curious? Do you suspect something? Has performance declined?
The belt can be “checked” by removing the valve cover and the top portion of the timing belt cover.
Then if you “feel” confident doing so, you may rotate the engine BY HAND only.ONLY you know if you have adequate knowledge, skills, and experience to undertake this procedure.
There are numerous videos out there that show how to.
Labor time on this is about 3 -3.5 hours. Now you can understand why it is best to put in quality parts AND perform the procedure correctly (i.e. inspect seals that are ‘right in front of you”. If you are there, inspect it and if there is any question, change that $6.00 seal).
Hope that this information helps you.
If not, say so. And perhaps someone else will share their thoughts.
Regards,
Cloud