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[cnorth5863]

It doesnt rev when it bangs. Its like someone just rear ended while driving. When i opened the diff, the ring gear looked perfect, no chips or pitting.

[cnorth5863]

thanks again for your help.

[cnorth5863]

OK, the Fusible link was definitely the issue, so its fixed now sort of….the old fusible link was a 10 gauge wire, the auto parts stores around here only have 12 Guage fusible links. so i was stuck replacing with a 12 gauge. now i have the car running off the computer and its putting out at the battery 13.4 V. which i think is too low but at least its charging. do you think the lower charging is due to the thinner gauge fusible link? or do you think i should just replace all the positive and negative wiring on the alternator circuit?

[cnorth5863]

i belive i found the problem or attest a problem. i found a bad fuseable link from the alternator to the pdc. i am headed to the autoparts store to pick one up.. ill keep ya posted.

[cnorth5863]

First Thanks for working with me…here are my results
the wires are green and green/violet and the model number of the voltage regulator is Tru-Tech VR125T.

this first set is with the car off and external voltage regulator hooked up.
B+ to B+ on alt 1.6v
bat neg to alt neg post 0 v
B+ to field 1 10.8v
B+ to field 2 10.8v
B+ to Bat Neg 12.3v

Car On / Voltage Regulator
B+ to field 1 10.6v
b+ to field 2 .46 v
B+ to B+ 18.37v
Bat Neg to alternator case = 0
B+ to alt Case = 11.87
Bat Neg to field 1 = 1.23 v
bat neg to field 2 = 11.51 v
Bat + to bat neg = 11.8 v
——————————————————————————————-
Test 2 with computer hooked up (stock) Car Off
B+ to alt B+ =.04v
bat neg to alt neg post = 0
B+ to field 1 = 12.3
B+ to field 2 = 12.3
bat neg to field 1 = 0
bat neg to field 2 = 0
B+ to bat neg = 12.3

Car on with computer hooked up.
B+ to field 1 = 11.3 v
B+ to field 2 = .7 v
Bat neg to field 1 = .7
Bat Neg to field 2 = 11.3 v
B+ to alt B+ = 14.4 v (looks like alt working?)
bat neg to alt B+ = 0v
B+ to alternator case 11.78 v
bat neg to alternator case = 0 v
B+ to bat neg = 11.6 V (not charging battery)

I hope this all makes sense but to me it seems like the computer is working correctly but the charge isn’t getting to the battery for some reason? alt is putting out 14.4 at the reg bat + terminal on the alt. what do you think? Am i looking at the results correctly?
Again thanks for your help.

[cnorth5863]

i will check this morning for voltage between the two field connections for voltage. let say there is voltage but battery doesn’t charge..would that mean alternator is bad? Then what about the opposite scenario, no voltage between two? bad ground, bad voltage regulator?

[cnorth5863]

The external voltage regulator that I hooked up had 2 terminals the center one has two wires coming off of it . One goes positive ignition switch the other to one field post of alternator. The second post of the voltage regulator goes directly to the second field post of the alternator. The body of the regulator is grounded to body ground and to the alternator. So If I understand you correctly in my senario I do have power going to the alternator via the wire coming off the center post of the voltage regulator.

[cnorth5863]

6 1/2 hr drive…get the coffee and red bull ready. Im in

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[cnorth5863]

OK 4th time was the charm. Ibputbon the Mopar metal gasket and now idles perfect. Thanks everyone for your help. In case anyone runs into this same situation…on the Mopar gasket the stamped numbers should face out towards the exhaust/intake manifolds.

[cnorth5863]

well, i removed the intake and exhaust manifolds again tonight…and took off the new gasket and upon examination, it looks like the new gasket is toasted. there was a tear and some separation of layers of the gasket. I think what happened was that when i first put it on and didn’t have the intake seated right, when i started it up it was too much pressure in that area and caused it to fail. I will know for sure if my theory is right when my new gasket comes hopefully tomorrow from rock auto, a Mopar gasket this time. I am sure the Felpro would have been fine if i did it right the first time.

[cnorth5863]

well i tried it again last night by loosing all the bolts and wiggling it in place and it seemed to seat much better and the holes (3) lined up on the power steering pump just fine. I tightened it all back up, confident that i had it this time…but then when i started it up ..it again immediately went to redline. Well gonna take it all off again tonight…gonna inspect the manifold for cracks. I hope i didn’t crack it with my first attempt. i also ordered the Mopar OEM gasket last night from rockauto. i hope 3 rd time is the charm…i will keep you updated.

[cnorth5863]

Thanks exactly what i needed. Thanks
What about metallic vs non metallic?

[cnorth5863]

ok, after looking over on some jeep forums, it appears that it is a common issue with these jeeps after this job. It looks like maybe the manifold is not located properly. i will have to pull the exhaust and intake off again. So now my question is, does it matter which way the felpro gasket goes on, with the writing out or towards the block. there were no instructions in the box. i want to do this right the second time. lol.

[cnorth5863]

No problem… Don’t wanna step on toes.. Lol. I think it’s great to see the progress you have made since the early years in the cramped garage to your new location. Keep it up, it’s appreciated.

[cnorth5863]

No problem… Don’t wanna step on toes.. Lol. I think it’s great to see the progress you have made since the early years in the cramped garage to your new location. Keep it up, it’s appreciated.

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