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  • in reply to: Fairmont Suggestions #581383
    danwat1234danwat1234
    Participant

      I know it’s not your thing Eric but my idea would be to replace the engine with a high output electric motor, maybe 175KW and a lithium battery pack, 1 under the hood and the other where the spare tire goes. A controller and liquid cooling system to do the magic.

      in reply to: Fairmont Suggestions #588233
      danwat1234danwat1234
      Participant

        I know it’s not your thing Eric but my idea would be to replace the engine with a high output electric motor, maybe 175KW and a lithium battery pack, 1 under the hood and the other where the spare tire goes. A controller and liquid cooling system to do the magic.

        in reply to: Cabin air intake; How does it keep water out? #557317
        danwat1234danwat1234
        Participant

          Thanks for the help. I’m still kind of confused how the water diverts to a tube instead of into the cabin. I’d understand if the air intake is like a clothes dryer heat exhaust port, where it is mostly sheltered from the water if air is being sucked in.

          in reply to: Cabin air intake; How does it keep water out? #552330
          danwat1234danwat1234
          Participant

            Thanks for the help. I’m still kind of confused how the water diverts to a tube instead of into the cabin. I’d understand if the air intake is like a clothes dryer heat exhaust port, where it is mostly sheltered from the water if air is being sucked in.

            in reply to: How To Diagnose and Replace a Faulty Caliper #533895
            danwat1234danwat1234
            Participant

              OK so just so I have it clear, you recommend the silicone brake anti-seize not only obviously on the slider pins but on the shims/back of pads too, no petroleum anti-seize use at all? That’s what I plan on doing.
              Thanks

              in reply to: How To Diagnose and Replace a Faulty Caliper #537314
              danwat1234danwat1234
              Participant

                OK so just so I have it clear, you recommend the silicone brake anti-seize not only obviously on the slider pins but on the shims/back of pads too, no petroleum anti-seize use at all? That’s what I plan on doing.
                Thanks

                in reply to: How To Install an HID Headlight Kit #518421
                danwat1234danwat1234
                Participant

                  [quote=”jeremyfountain” post=59032]outstanding re vid loved the intake/echaust manifold explanation made my day[/quote]

                  LOL yeah that was aimed at me. I LOLed (Thanks Eric). I have a Civic, exhaust is by the radiator!

                  in reply to: How To Install an HID Headlight Kit #520809
                  danwat1234danwat1234
                  Participant

                    [quote=”jeremyfountain” post=59032]outstanding re vid loved the intake/echaust manifold explanation made my day[/quote]

                    LOL yeah that was aimed at me. I LOLed (Thanks Eric). I have a Civic, exhaust is by the radiator!

                    in reply to: How To Install an HID Headlight Kit #517938
                    danwat1234danwat1234
                    Participant

                      [quote=”Taffy R18″ post=58875]
                      …………………………..There is also this letter from SEMA regarding the government clamping down on HID conversion kits because they are in violation of FMVSS 108:
                      http://www.sema.org/?q=node/4182
                      [/quote]

                      That article is 6 years old if you google “GOVERNMENT CLAMPS DOWN ON HID CONVERSION KITS”. May of 2007.
                      Obviously in that time the government has done nothing significant to hinder aftermarket HID kit sales or to citationize caught consumers.

                      in reply to: How To Install an HID Headlight Kit #520294
                      danwat1234danwat1234
                      Participant

                        [quote=”Taffy R18″ post=58875]
                        …………………………..There is also this letter from SEMA regarding the government clamping down on HID conversion kits because they are in violation of FMVSS 108:
                        http://www.sema.org/?q=node/4182
                        [/quote]

                        That article is 6 years old if you google “GOVERNMENT CLAMPS DOWN ON HID CONVERSION KITS”. May of 2007.
                        Obviously in that time the government has done nothing significant to hinder aftermarket HID kit sales or to citationize caught consumers.

                        in reply to: How To Install an HID Headlight Kit #520151
                        danwat1234danwat1234
                        Participant

                          High end halogens tend to have a short bulb life, that’s why a HID kit especially with a lifetime warranty saves money. (HIDgeeks is a scam, DDM is the only lifetime warranty (google “hidgeeks warranty”).
                          I don’t like the bluish bulbs either, they hurt the eyes more. 4500/5000K (white) HIDs or go back to Halogens. HID bulbs are pretty cheap. On Ebay they are about $24 shipped for a pair of hi/lows or about $10-15 for just lows (no solenoid). Cheaper than a pair of high end halogens. Funny how that is.
                          If he doesn’t want to use proper bulbs then that’s fine. Retrofitting can be expensive and a lot of work and with a newer car (not his) you have a vehicle warranty to protect.

                          Illegal doesn’t mean anything, can’t get in much trouble.

                          in reply to: How To Install an HID Headlight Kit #517805
                          danwat1234danwat1234
                          Participant

                            High end halogens tend to have a short bulb life, that’s why a HID kit especially with a lifetime warranty saves money. (HIDgeeks is a scam, DDM is the only lifetime warranty (google “hidgeeks warranty”).
                            I don’t like the bluish bulbs either, they hurt the eyes more. 4500/5000K (white) HIDs or go back to Halogens. HID bulbs are pretty cheap. On Ebay they are about $24 shipped for a pair of hi/lows or about $10-15 for just lows (no solenoid). Cheaper than a pair of high end halogens. Funny how that is.
                            If he doesn’t want to use proper bulbs then that’s fine. Retrofitting can be expensive and a lot of work and with a newer car (not his) you have a vehicle warranty to protect.

                            Illegal doesn’t mean anything, can’t get in much trouble.

                            in reply to: The neverending nightmare of the 1998 Honda Civic #520089
                            danwat1234danwat1234
                            Participant

                              It shouldn’t be junked imo. It’s the last few years of Civics that had a full wishbone suspension and lots of room under the hood for mods. Now all we have are Mcpherson.
                              In general the 1990s Civics and Accords are very reliable except for a few issues and their early CVT transmission in the HX. You have to make sure the engine doesn’t run out of oil though and keep the fluids clean!

                              in reply to: The neverending nightmare of the 1998 Honda Civic #517766
                              danwat1234danwat1234
                              Participant

                                It shouldn’t be junked imo. It’s the last few years of Civics that had a full wishbone suspension and lots of room under the hood for mods. Now all we have are Mcpherson.
                                In general the 1990s Civics and Accords are very reliable except for a few issues and their early CVT transmission in the HX. You have to make sure the engine doesn’t run out of oil though and keep the fluids clean!

                                in reply to: How To Diagnose and Replace a Faulty Caliper #520087
                                danwat1234danwat1234
                                Participant

                                  When you were bleeding the brakes with pedal action, don’t you have to push down the pedal and keep it down, then close the bleeder, then release the pedal, open the bleeder and push down again, close the bleeder and then let the pedal back up?
                                  When the pedal is released, old fluid from the bottle gets sucked back into the line, right?
                                  So how does that get rid of the remaining air? Why not gravity bleed until no more air instead of just gravity bleeding for part of the procedure?
                                  Thanks. See http://www.youtube DOT com/watch?v=vOiHgP33CM4 at 26 minute mark

                                  Your site fails at attempting to self embed youtube videos

                                  Also, why use anti-seize on the specified corners of the brake pads, but not the same silicone paste you used on the slider pins. Doesn’t work as well as petroleum based anti-seize for brake pad quietness?

                                Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 28 total)
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