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[dollman0]

I have been running Amsoil synthetic oil for over ten years and never had an issue with it, and I have tried several different types. I have had it tested after 20,000 miles and it was still suitable for continued service. If your oil keeps turning black, run a flush treatment to remove deposits and go back with your same brand of oil in the recommended grade. If you use a full synthetic, it does not wear out or generate deposits at the same rate as dino oil allowing longer drain intervals.

[dollman0]

This video series applies to a F series Ford, your Chevrolet is similar.
http://youtu.be/XckEjdAUohI
http://youtu.be/8KSKg5KHzlE
http://youtu.be/8T2ZCEZl20g
http://youtu.be/r0jzwDIlDbA
http://youtu.be/IVluVuiFnlw pressing out lower ball Joint
http://youtu.be/ujQ5FfBjBIc setting up the press to install
http://youtu.be/0z-gCDC8oOw Pressing in ball joint
http://youtu.be/zpi3bde7Q2c install snap ring
http://youtu.be/IDVabo5CC2E install spindle
http://youtu.be/RfBBW-4EqyU tighten ball joint nuts
http://youtu.be/RnoBX9_OJ0U grease ball joints

My software shows the upper ball joint has rivets, grind them off and punch them out as directed in your manual, be sure to torque the bolts. I did not include a video because the Ford is different from your Chevy.

As I stated before, this procedure has some risk of injury if the spring is released. The video above has a shock going through the spring and keeps it from coming out, I am not sure of the exact set-up of your truck. Just be safe and secure it if necessary and get a buddy to help you.

[dollman0]

Another thing to check is the control arm bushings, I have changed a bunch of the upper bushings on large GM cars due to dry rot.

[dollman0]

I used the study guides printed by Delmar Learning (picked them up on eBay) and worked the problems for several weeks until I was very comfortable with the questions or until I was sick of them, not sure.

Only work on your study guide 1 hr a day, at least 4 days a week.
write your answers on paper, repeat the questions you missed
read the information again before repeating any questions.
figure out why you missed the questions.

Repetition is how we learn, just keep practicing until you know each book very well.

I never failed a test I was prepared for at ASE. I have taken 6 tests in Heavy Truck (T-2 thru T-7) and have a master status, you can do the same with the A Test series 1-8.

Good Luck! I know it is tough to pass them exams

[dollman0]

Quoted From WDHewson:

Please lend your experience to us on this question.

When dealing with undoing rusty bolts and nuts, are they less likely to snap and beak the bolt shank when using an impact wrench compared to a hand tool?

A long service mechanic in our winter salty Province, Ontario, told me once to always use an impact loosening bolts as breakage is much less than with hand tools.

Today, on my wife’s 1999 Honda CR-V, I replaced the front sway bar rubber bushings, each held by two 12 mm short bolts, 8 mm shank and 1.25 mm pitch. These bolts have never been touched since installation, and were thoroughly rusty. My electric 1/2 inch impact backed these bolts out without breakage. The impact was working hard the whole time until the last thread disengaged.

I re-installed these bolts with lots of antisieze and with hand tools.

Hoping to learn your experiences.

Sometimes you can use penetrating oil and work it into the bolts by backing them off a little, spraying them and re-tightening them 2-3 times until the rust is freed up… I find the hammering action of the impact to be more effective than the true torque of hand tools, this is where you break stuff. Keep in mind, if it is turning hard, you are going to either strip it or break it! Use lots of oil if the fastener is ignorant and sometimes heat is the only thing that works.

TIP: If you do not have any anti-seize, use engine oil on threads or a light coating of wheel bearing grease; it works wonders at preventing rust.

I pull the dipstick out and oil the threads on my spark plugs and never had one seize in the aluminum head.

[dollman0]

stay away from major problems as the car is not worth fixing if it is not running. Check it out on Kelly Blue Book to find the Book Value, thats what it is valued at by insurance. Use the trade in value

I got bent over on a S10, the people lied to me and I finally called the junkyard to come get the truck off my property. The exhaust valves were burned up (dead cylinder). Window would not stay up (the door was totaled inside) there was other stuff like the heater that did not work… This is stuff to watch out for on a cheap car…

I drive a 91 Tercel, it got wrecked and Progressive would only pay $700 for the car and left me stranded, the repair estimate was $2,400… this is how book value works.

[dollman0]

stay away from major problems as the car is not worth fixing if it is not running. Check it out on Kelly Blue Book to find the Book Value, thats what it is valued at by insurance. Use the trade in value

I got bent over on a S10, the people lied to me and I finally called the junkyard to come get the truck off my property. The exhaust valves were burned up (dead cylinder). Window would not stay up (the door was totaled inside) there was other stuff like the heater that did not work… This is stuff to watch out for on a cheap car…

I drive a 91 Tercel, it got wrecked and Progressive would only pay $700 for the car and left me stranded, the repair estimate was $2,400… this is how book value works.

[dollman0]

Quoted From Venom Z28:

Why would you want to go to a dealership? When you get there your gonna be the new guy again. Get stuck doing all the warranty work, checking new cars in, and doing huge jobs that will make you no money. Eveyone Ive talked to that use to be a dealerships say they would never go back.

I had the same issues working at a roadside Tire & Lube for big trucks, much like Pep Boys. All the techs that have been there a long time learned to jump on the paying work and dump the “Other” work on the new guys.

Here is an example: A complete PMI bills out at $50 and the technician gets 38-42% (depending upon their level). The manager runs a special that includes a DOT inspection for $60 (the inspection is normally $50) I just spent three hours doing a complete PMI and a DOT inspection and earned around $24 during half my shift. If someone helps you, its a 50/50 split, shop rate was $95/hr to replace hoses & lights etc.

[dollman0]

I think you are referring to pedal height and your manual should help clear this up. A general rule is the clutch should start to grab 2 inches off the floor and release half way down. If you do not have the extra travel on the floor, it will be hard to get in gear or grind a little. I am no expert, I just work on various cars (my expertise is in heavy trucks). Over the years, I have never had to adjust the pedal unless there was a lot of wear in the clevis and that is very uncommon.

[dollman0]

I agree, I went to a state funded community college and my training is very good for the money I spent. I have also met a few guys who reported the top advertised schools push students through their program like cattle at an auction, and learned very little about some phases of auto repair.

I know there are some good automotive programs in your area, you just need to check with the state board of community colleges for an accredited school offering your program of interest. Next, see if the school does the Stafford loan, you will need that to buy tools. It is a very low rate and you pay it back after you graduate.

Good Luck!

[dollman0]

Quoted From jacobnbr1:

If there is still a powertrain warranty you need to have documents that it was serviced with dealer parts. Other than that I second the valvoline max life fluid.

The Magnoson Moss warranty act states: “if a particular fluid is required to enforce the warranty, it must be provided to you free of charge as long as there is a suitable alternative available.” This means if the Dextron VI is acceptable, it does not void your warranty as long as it meets SAE spec… I chose Valvoline Max Life for my GM transmission, will be putting it in as soon as I get the system flushed of contaminants.

[dollman0]

Welcome AJ… I hope the mobile repair service works out for you. Its really hard to take your shop on the road, I did that for a while as a service tech along the interstate and on construction jobs.

[dollman0]

I would suggest you check with PepBoys or a similar shop who does that type of work. Ball Joints can be a real nightmare due to rust and other factors. You also have to deal with the safety issues. Once you separate the lower control arm, it can unleash the spring. Next, it requires special tools to R&R the ball Joint.

MOOG makes the best suspension parts also under the Carquest label. Perfect Circle is a top brand from Napa. I have had good luck with parts from BAP Imports in Phoenix… The grease you use in these ball joints can determine how long they last.

[dollman0]

Have you tried an injector service?
It may be as simple as injectors with buildup on them from ethanol. A gummed up hydraulic lifter can also give you idle issues from a tight valve and still drive good.

[dollman0]

On most full size GM trucks, there are 2 switches on the transfer case, one for the spedo sensor and one for the 4X4. Some models have some type of actuator that may have gone bad. It just depends on how your truck is set up.

[Author]

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