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Quoted From KZ 259:
for electronic parts (like sensors), i learned to go through the dealer. my recent example are the o2 senors. i bought my o2 replacement sensors from rock auto for an incredibly cheap price compared to the dealer later to find out that the sensor was super long in terms of length and i think for that reason, it wasnt working correctly. i ended up buying it from the dealer and it worked right off the bat. so lesson learned there.
When I was a teenager, one of the locals from my church learned me to buy dealer parts when it comes to electronic modules and the like. Yes, an O2 sensor is well over $100 but the car don’t come back to haunt you with a warranty claim.
I worked in this little garage PT as a helper back in 88. This man was a dealer tech for Chrysler and Nissan 7-8 years at each place. I value my experience working under the supervision of a well trained and experienced mechanic. I understand the man passed a few years ago.
I used the study guides printed by Delmar Learning (picked them up on eBay) and worked the problems for several weeks until I was very comfortable with the questions or until I was sick of them, not sure.
Only work on your study guide 1 hr a day, at least 4 days a week.
write your answers on paper, repeat the questions you missed
read the information again before repeating any questions.
figure out why you missed the questions.Repetition is how we learn, just keep practicing until you know each book very well.
I never failed a test I was prepared for at ASE. I have taken 6 tests in Heavy Truck (T-2 thru T-7) and have a master status, you can do the same with the A Test series 1-8.
Good Luck! I know it is tough to pass them exams
Quoted From WDHewson:
Please lend your experience to us on this question.
When dealing with undoing rusty bolts and nuts, are they less likely to snap and beak the bolt shank when using an impact wrench compared to a hand tool?
A long service mechanic in our winter salty Province, Ontario, told me once to always use an impact loosening bolts as breakage is much less than with hand tools.
Today, on my wife’s 1999 Honda CR-V, I replaced the front sway bar rubber bushings, each held by two 12 mm short bolts, 8 mm shank and 1.25 mm pitch. These bolts have never been touched since installation, and were thoroughly rusty. My electric 1/2 inch impact backed these bolts out without breakage. The impact was working hard the whole time until the last thread disengaged.
I re-installed these bolts with lots of antisieze and with hand tools.
Hoping to learn your experiences.
Sometimes you can use penetrating oil and work it into the bolts by backing them off a little, spraying them and re-tightening them 2-3 times until the rust is freed up… I find the hammering action of the impact to be more effective than the true torque of hand tools, this is where you break stuff. Keep in mind, if it is turning hard, you are going to either strip it or break it! Use lots of oil if the fastener is ignorant and sometimes heat is the only thing that works.
TIP: If you do not have any anti-seize, use engine oil on threads or a light coating of wheel bearing grease; it works wonders at preventing rust.
I pull the dipstick out and oil the threads on my spark plugs and never had one seize in the aluminum head.
stay away from major problems as the car is not worth fixing if it is not running. Check it out on Kelly Blue Book to find the Book Value, thats what it is valued at by insurance. Use the trade in value
I got bent over on a S10, the people lied to me and I finally called the junkyard to come get the truck off my property. The exhaust valves were burned up (dead cylinder). Window would not stay up (the door was totaled inside) there was other stuff like the heater that did not work… This is stuff to watch out for on a cheap car…
I drive a 91 Tercel, it got wrecked and Progressive would only pay $700 for the car and left me stranded, the repair estimate was $2,400… this is how book value works.
stay away from major problems as the car is not worth fixing if it is not running. Check it out on Kelly Blue Book to find the Book Value, thats what it is valued at by insurance. Use the trade in value
I got bent over on a S10, the people lied to me and I finally called the junkyard to come get the truck off my property. The exhaust valves were burned up (dead cylinder). Window would not stay up (the door was totaled inside) there was other stuff like the heater that did not work… This is stuff to watch out for on a cheap car…
I drive a 91 Tercel, it got wrecked and Progressive would only pay $700 for the car and left me stranded, the repair estimate was $2,400… this is how book value works.
Quoted From Venom Z28:
Why would you want to go to a dealership? When you get there your gonna be the new guy again. Get stuck doing all the warranty work, checking new cars in, and doing huge jobs that will make you no money. Eveyone Ive talked to that use to be a dealerships say they would never go back.
I had the same issues working at a roadside Tire & Lube for big trucks, much like Pep Boys. All the techs that have been there a long time learned to jump on the paying work and dump the “Other” work on the new guys.
Here is an example: A complete PMI bills out at $50 and the technician gets 38-42% (depending upon their level). The manager runs a special that includes a DOT inspection for $60 (the inspection is normally $50) I just spent three hours doing a complete PMI and a DOT inspection and earned around $24 during half my shift. If someone helps you, its a 50/50 split, shop rate was $95/hr to replace hoses & lights etc.
Consider this… Is there any chance you put the disc in backwards allowing the dampening springs to rub the flywheel bolts?
I saw that in a dodge truck once, it wore the heads off the flywheel bolts.I have a 91 Tercel and I changed the engine from a 3EE to a 5E-FE very similar to your set-up. Not had any problems with it in the past 100K miles. I bought the clutch from Advance Auto; as bad as I hate that place, it was in stock.
Use a torque chart if you question the values.. 6mm bolts + hardness has a recommended torque range.. If you are a new tech, one lesson learned.. You may be able to drill out the broken bolt unless it is really screwed up in the flywheel.
Here is a chart with the respectable torque values http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pd … teners.pdf Remember if you oil the threads to reduce the torque by 10%I think it depends on how hard your impact hits. When I was in tech school, we checked and it was either under or over torqued but the average was reasonable. I am sure tire shops like them because it is a fast tool to use for production. These torque sticks are even available for truck wheels that torque to 450-500 ft lbs… I have found you get the same result from using a thin extension due to the flex action lol
I like the (Quadra-Bog) Rochester Quadrajet that came on GM trucks. It has a center hung float with good derivability. If you get it tuned right, its a bad arse carb
A holly will give you trouble on a side hill but the 0-1850 is a good model, also comes in a electric choke version.
I am not much on Carter AFB or the Elberbroc version, its a good street carb with a lean mix for better MPG.I always had issues with the 2v Holley carb on the 360 engine, I like to modify them to a Motorcrap and then the 360 will run decent… Did that to an IH truck too, made a huge difference in gas mileage.
My favorite TOOL is in my pants.. all kidding aside… I have a huge assortment of tools, more than will fit in two roll cabs
another thing is some fasteners are made for 12 point like in tight places, sometimes you need both styles. I just got some 12 pt wobbles and I have a set of 12 pt impact sockets. Star bits (Torx) and triple square for European cars are popular, just depends on the type of car these days.