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Your question was not real clear but I am assuming you are asking about going to a school to get training in the automotive field.
Community colleges are great because the state pays for your education, unlike those schools you see on TV.
Some schools are nothing more than a “Certificate Mill” and you should avoid those unless you like to repay the loans on something that has little value.
Check with your state community college system, there should be a database of every automotive program offered and list the amount of tuition. In most cases, the federal PELL should cover most of your education except for tools. If the program is approved, the tool companies give you a real discount as an incentive to buy their stuff and give you a good start as a lifetime customer.
If you have been working in automotive, you might go to ASE and get a patch, that is one way to document what you are good at. There is a new G1 for basic service, check out Eric’s discussion on that.
Your question was not real clear but I am assuming you are asking about going to a school to get training in the automotive field.
Community colleges are great because the state pays for your education, unlike those schools you see on TV.
Some schools are nothing more than a “Certificate Mill” and you should avoid those unless you like to repay the loans on something that has little value.
Check with your state community college system, there should be a database of every automotive program offered and list the amount of tuition. In most cases, the federal PELL should cover most of your education except for tools. If the program is approved, the tool companies give you a real discount as an incentive to buy their stuff and give you a good start as a lifetime customer.
If you have been working in automotive, you might go to ASE and get a patch, that is one way to document what you are good at. There is a new G1 for basic service, check out Eric’s discussion on that.
sometimes the seals in the master cylinder get swollen and block the passage that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir. The brakes will get hot and drag, the farther you drive, the worse the problem gets.
To confirm this, squeeze one of the caliper pistons to push the fluid back to the master, if its very hard, this is most likely the problem.
sometimes the seals in the master cylinder get swollen and block the passage that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir. The brakes will get hot and drag, the farther you drive, the worse the problem gets.
To confirm this, squeeze one of the caliper pistons to push the fluid back to the master, if its very hard, this is most likely the problem.
Go back to the voltage drop procedure I mentioned before and I read online that there can be an Alternator Fuse in one of the power distribution boxes (40A 60A 80A 120A etc). Also check for key on/off power on the alternator plug to see if the control circuit is working.
If none of these work, I have no idea because I am not familiar with that particular model of Toyota.
Go back to the voltage drop procedure I mentioned before and I read online that there can be an Alternator Fuse in one of the power distribution boxes (40A 60A 80A 120A etc). Also check for key on/off power on the alternator plug to see if the control circuit is working.
If none of these work, I have no idea because I am not familiar with that particular model of Toyota.
Looking back at all your receipts, your car had a overheat problem before; new radiator, water pump etc. I just wonder if it is a common problem with that model car or it is just a cheap water pump that failed.
It does sound like a circulation problem because the water boils out of the engine and is not flowing through the radiator if I understand the problem correctly. There is also a concern that it was working fine until the weather turned warm, that’s what is kinda puzzling.
I am working on a Mercedes and a cooling problem cracked the head. On some forums the other guys said not to use a cheap water pump to avoid a costly failure. Just something to consider.
Take care
Looking back at all your receipts, your car had a overheat problem before; new radiator, water pump etc. I just wonder if it is a common problem with that model car or it is just a cheap water pump that failed.
It does sound like a circulation problem because the water boils out of the engine and is not flowing through the radiator if I understand the problem correctly. There is also a concern that it was working fine until the weather turned warm, that’s what is kinda puzzling.
I am working on a Mercedes and a cooling problem cracked the head. On some forums the other guys said not to use a cheap water pump to avoid a costly failure. Just something to consider.
Take care
Yeah, its called the good buddy system. People will take advantage of you every opportunity they get, and employers are no exception. I used to do side work for certain businesses and some private people, its the same deal, they want it done for nothing and expect miracles when its convenient for them.
Yeah, its called the good buddy system. People will take advantage of you every opportunity they get, and employers are no exception. I used to do side work for certain businesses and some private people, its the same deal, they want it done for nothing and expect miracles when its convenient for them.
I don’t know the electrical system of this particular car but here is an idea
The alternator can put out just enough to keep the charge light off and not put out nearly enough amps to run the car, thats why the power windows kills the engine.I have an older toyota and the charge light was coming on, I replaced the brush pack and its been going strong for the past five years. It may be the same deal with your alternator, but I don’t know the system.
Try checking the wiring for high resistance such as a bad fuseable link causing your problem. Touch a DMM lead to the alt charge wire and the battery pos to see if there is more than .5v between the alt and battery. A high reading indicates a problem and repeat on the ground side from the alt base to the neg post. If you are getting a low voltage drop in the wiring you have isolated the possibility of something other than the alternator. There is also a control wire that feeds back to the ignition switch, normally a F terminal and it should switch on/off with the key.
All it takes is a bad diode in the alternator to kill the output, it should put out 50 amps at idle and 100A at 2000 rpm. If you can get an amp clamp on the charge wire, you will know how much it is pushing.
I hope this helps you determine the cause of your issue.
I don’t know the electrical system of this particular car but here is an idea
The alternator can put out just enough to keep the charge light off and not put out nearly enough amps to run the car, thats why the power windows kills the engine.I have an older toyota and the charge light was coming on, I replaced the brush pack and its been going strong for the past five years. It may be the same deal with your alternator, but I don’t know the system.
Try checking the wiring for high resistance such as a bad fuseable link causing your problem. Touch a DMM lead to the alt charge wire and the battery pos to see if there is more than .5v between the alt and battery. A high reading indicates a problem and repeat on the ground side from the alt base to the neg post. If you are getting a low voltage drop in the wiring you have isolated the possibility of something other than the alternator. There is also a control wire that feeds back to the ignition switch, normally a F terminal and it should switch on/off with the key.
All it takes is a bad diode in the alternator to kill the output, it should put out 50 amps at idle and 100A at 2000 rpm. If you can get an amp clamp on the charge wire, you will know how much it is pushing.
I hope this helps you determine the cause of your issue.
If there is bubbles in the coolant tank, it sounds like combustion gas is entering the cooling system. Check your tailpipe to see if water is washing the soot clean. Get your hands on some block test fluid and the tester to check the radiator for combustion gas.
I would think you are having a head/gasket problem.
Its also possible the impeller in the water pump may be damaged or broken. Does the heater work? I ask because that will tell you if water is circulating. A bad radiator cap can also contribute to a loss of coolant.
If there is bubbles in the coolant tank, it sounds like combustion gas is entering the cooling system. Check your tailpipe to see if water is washing the soot clean. Get your hands on some block test fluid and the tester to check the radiator for combustion gas.
I would think you are having a head/gasket problem.
Its also possible the impeller in the water pump may be damaged or broken. Does the heater work? I ask because that will tell you if water is circulating. A bad radiator cap can also contribute to a loss of coolant.
There is something called “Mineral Oil Mentality” where people believe thicker oil offers more protection, which is not true.
Oil pumps move fluid, thicker fluids require more power to move them, which leads to unnecessary heat. All transmissions now are using a lighter fluid (Low Viscosity) in just about everything from a car to heavy equipment. Field trials have proven that lighter fluids are more efficient and just as reliable as the heavy grades used in the past.
There is something called boundary lubrication and a good quality oil will prevent wear even if there is no pressure between moving parts. The lighter oils get there quicker and have less drag from churning oil between moving parts. So you can see there is less power wasted by the heavier fluids and wear is not a concern unless fuel dilution is a problem.