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As per my oil supplier It has the correct additives and properties to meet GM specs. Also contains a color dye additive that can be seen under analysis.
In order to prove that is what is being used in the engine.I cannot confirm the size but can offer some guidelines.
If you cut off a piece of the old wire It should match the size of the replacement wire. Lay it beside or hold it and but it to the new wire.
It should be fairly obvious because especially in the larger sizes the next size up is a lot thicker.
Strippers can be used to measure and compare.
Your replacement wire should be as thick or if in doubt thicker.
It is important to note to fix any problems with corrosion, burned high resistance plugs or any shorts or overloads in order to prevent a failure of the replacement wire. If after running the vehicle and electrical items you should be able to hold the wire in your hand.
If you get the impression of wow this wire is really warm or hot there is likely a problem somewhere still.Hi Tom,
Most of the aftermarket kits do come with nylon ties.
They usually work just fine.
I have been using them for years without any problems.Dealers always clean the car inside and the engine bay.
They sometimes spray a black transparent coating to engine compartment and the wheel wells or even rocker panel area.
Have a good look underneath for rust, deep to the center around the engine and transmission or up in the rear bumper area.
You may find shoddy body repairs.
Have a good look if the engine compartment looks washed, look for oil seeps etc that may be present.
If the engine is high mileage it is possible to have an additive in the oil to quiet any ticking when cold. The best check for an engine is cold listen for noise for the first few seconds or minute. Look for any puff of smoke when first started.
Unfortunately the seller will have warmed up the car before you get there so it is quiet and running smoothly.
It i shard to detect an additive it may make the oil feel thicker or stickier than normal.
Have a look for wear and tear signs like under the drivers floor mat, the gas pedal or brake pedal rubber may show the true mileage of the car if you suspect the mileage on the odometer seems oddly low.
If the car is not maintained you will see several things wore out, leaking etc so it is often possible to pick up on that.
If something sticks out at you back away from the deal.First question I have is do all the speeds on the fan work correctly?
If all the fan speeds work correctly I don’t think the resister is at fault.
Have a look at the diagram. The ac switch is only momentary contact anyway to tell the ac head to turn the ac on. On low the circuit is grounded, on medium and hi there is a wire to the eca I am assuming is the climate control head input to have the ac on.
You could verify if this is getting grounded in medium or hi or just jumper that wire to ground and see if the ac works.
You may discover the switch is not grounding or the eca or wiring has an issue.Hi,
Yes Its normal. But like the others said follow a routine.
Don’t leave in the middle of a step or procedure.
It happens to me me but I re trace through the steps mentally and put the feeling to rest.The SV272 is more durable.
The p890108 may fit more types of vehicles but takes more time to use because you have to inflate the bladder to fit and hold the unit.
The little bladders wear out and need to be replaced and the adapters are not that durable. This is more as a companion to cover which the other set cannot and used for that occasion.
That is based on my experience.Hi,
Not much use for 8 point, other than budd wheel,
diff and transmission plug, and to drive large taps.
Wetherhead sockets or crows feet for fittings are handy.
Metric is more common now. But differentials and transmissions that are made in the US were still imperial.
Engine is mostly metric now.
12 point is used on driveshaft straps, 12mm and 13mm 3/8 drive shallow impact. 1/2″ drive shallow 13/16″ 7/8″ for flywheel,
there is the odd 15/16″ or other shallow impact for certain head bolts.
Some 3/8″ drive used on fuel system or internal engine component.
Cummins had some on the engine as well.
Yes 1/2″ drive impact swivel and 3/8″ drive chrome and impact are very handy.
As for oil filter. There are big pliers.
I used a cup with a metal band, worked better than the cloth strap.
One with a chain or homemade one with chain would be handy for real tight ones that you could swear were put on with a dry gasket and tightened with the band.
The oversized channel lock pliers called “big azz” are handy for certian filters,
for tight fuel caps and for holding other pieces.I would suggest looking for more training. If you look harder you should be able to find some better explanation of adjustments. I assume you are questioning the practicality of DIY adjustments. As for your Honda the camber is not adjustable if it is out of spec look for and replace bent or worn, loose components. They provide caster adjustment to possibly compensate for pull and it is adjusted by adding or removing shims in between the control arm and radius rod. The problem is that there is no simple DIY way to measure the caster. So for last you could check toe with the string.
On a front wheel drive you prefer toe out so you would adjust until you had 1mm more clearance between the string at the rear of the wheel as compared to the front of the wheel. That would give you 2mm total toe out. Or zero would work if you had previous issues that you corrected and want to just minimize tire wear until you can take it to an alignment shop.
Now as general procedures: Replace your worn parts, free up your hardware but be careful not to change any adjustments while doing so.
Put the vehicle down measure camber and caster if you have the equipment.
Adjust camber first typically, Re measure, adjust caster, adjust camber and re measure.After either camber or caster adjustment you have to put the vehicle back down, bounce it and recheck. Then set toe last, road test, make sure your steering wheel is centered.If not re adjust and recheck.
Note you need tools, some sort of slip plates for toe or other adjustments. You need some sort of level bubble or measuring gauge for camber, you need a caster camber gauge to measure caster. To set toe you need some sort of toe gauge, toe plates or string set up and metal ruler.
Please note I intended above only for information purposes use at your own risk. I would recommend if you do not have any of the tools or do not understand how any of the improvised tools or techniques are used it is best to take it to alignment shop or seek the help from someone who can show you how to do it safely and correctly.Typically that is the way one starts out.
You didn’t mention what kind of facility you work in.
Perhaps if you seek out some place where there are dedicated full time lube techs you will have better chances at getting to do other work.
I worked in a shop that went through a slow spell, they had a couple of apprentices that were vocal against having to do oil changes.
They were missing the big picture that licensed techs were emptying trash, sweeping the floors, and doing oil changes.
The slow spell lasted a few months, the apprentices ended up losing their jobs.
I apprenticed in a small rural dealership, I had to clean the shop, paint the shop, wash and clean cars, then if needed do oil changes, if the other techs were busy I then was allowed to do small repairs. It went this way until I earned their trust and after a couple of years they hired another apprentice and it became his responsibility to clean up and do oil changes. That is the way it was. I don’t think all that much has changed.
I understand you finished school, in some way that was your choice and nobody owes you anything for that.
Your employer has some obligation to train you but that will happen as and when the need arises.
What you need to do is have a positive attitude, be helpful and eager to learn.
Respect the other experienced techs because they are the ones that will be able to help you when you are stuck in a situation.
Read and learn from whatever training material you can get your hands on.
If you discover you don’t know something, ask for help, study up on it learn about it.
Sometimes what tools you have make a difference. If you show your employer you are eager to help, eager to learn, you keep trying to improve yourself, look to have tools that you need to make your tasks more productive for yourself you will find that you keep moving up in most places you go.One point I should make is that it is also the fault of the consumer. The consumer only cares about how much it is going to cost and doesn’t place any value on quality of job. The dealership environment makes the situation worse by eliminating interaction between the tech and the customer to the point of where the customer really doesn’t know what is involved in the work being carried out.
I have typically chosen to work straight time, but have found that in high volume high pressure shops you will be forced to work at a pace as if you were flat rate and not reap any reward for that. They also gauge your productivity on against the flat rate bench mark as well which may not be fair either depending on what type of work the management hands out to you.
An the high volume high pressure shop if you throw a productivity bonus in plus favoritism in terms of jobs being allocated to certain techs you in essence will see the exact same type of un-co-operative work place as you see in flat rate. The techs don’t want to help each other because any time lost will reduce their bonus.
I do agree what has to die is having too many techs in a shop because management doesn’t pay them when they are not working. Or from management gouging techs on certain jobs where book time is insufficient.
Yes the hourly with bonus or salary with bonus is more fair to everyone.But you still need managers that are fair and have reasonable expectations.
They need to treat techs as a financial asset not a liability. Techs in turn have to be professional, accountable and responsible.
Management has to be fair, and open and understanding.GMs are usually 15, some 14.
Dodge has some 16mm, imports have some 17 or 18mm and typically 13 or 14mm.
If you do pick ups or cube vans you might use 3/4, 13/16 and 7/8.
I find the extra long double box wrench with 14mm and 17mm to be useful.Just a bit of advice by someone who has been there.
Don’t rush to sell your tools. And remember that if you’ve been working on cars for a while you are at a professional level of proficiency.
Try something else for a while but don’t dive into debt funding a new career.
Remember that the level of politics is the same in IT. Also your job is on the line if you make a mistake or make changes that are not reversible or that someone above you deems incompetent.
You will be expected to know how to fix and configure software or hardware that is not in front of you, you will be expected to fix it even though you cannot touch it test it yourself or even have any access to it in order to check it.
You will spend every free minute of your time studying it, learning it figuring out how to install it, set up, trouble shoot it.
That training becomes obsolete when the new version is released.
You will find that many of your peers have several years of college or university. Many are content, many are content to work for less money than we as mechanics earn. Some of the new candidates will be brilliant, more qualified etc, they become targets of their peers who will look to prey upon their mistakes.
So If you are considering the leap make sure it is into a field that you are passionate about because you will likely find that you will have to devote a great deal of effort to develop your career. Do something you enjoy doing.
By the way I did not intend to make IT as a career sound negative. I merely intend to point out things that one would not consider or even know without working in the field of IT.
I am telling this based on my own experience. I had stopped wrenching for a year of school and 8 months of IT work experience.
I went back to wrenching because I wanted to buy a house for my family. I found wrenching to be better paying than entry level IT, I found wrenching less stressful, I found it easier to find jobs and easier to hold a job based on level of experience, more opportunity.
Each to his own. We are all different, have different experience and each our own preferences.
I kind of discovered Eric The car guy when I had my own low in my career, I have followed Eric and watch him progress and he has provided some positive light for me. Yes I was dis allusioned and wishing I tried another career, so instead of complaining I did something about it.I had always wished I tried something else so I did. Good thing I did not feel embittered to the point of selling tools, that would have been a mistake.
Fast forward a few years,I have opened my own auto repair shop. I am still finding some challenges with that as well but am sure I will learn and
grow as individual from those experiences as well.In the rust belt area I usually have to heat and quench a few times.
I heard of a mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is superior to penetrating fluid.
I haven’t tried it yet. (keep flames away once applied)
I found that the heat helps the penetrant to seep and breaks up the corrosion.