Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Gear wrench is made by Craftsman and similarly has a lifetime warranty. If one of your gear wrenches ever breaks just bring it to sears for replacement.
I got the same set a while back; I am very pleased with it. Definitely a reliable and affordable choice. I hope you got them on sale because they are usually half off. Join the Craftsman Club if you haven’t already!
I picked the same one up from HF Beefy. I’ve used it on cars, vans, and SUV’s. it has considerable lift height but I still manage using some wood blocks here and there. I don’t think you will be disappointed. The only con I found was that the handle fits loosely and you can’t pull the jack by it other than that its been a good bang for the buck. Let us know how you make out with it.
I just got a brand new Matco with several adapters from ebay for under $75. There are definitely good deals on E-bay and new testers are listed every day. it took me a month or so to finally get one, but my budget was small. Let us know what you decide.
They work great for removing/installing alternators and P/S pumps on Hondas. I would definitely recommend getting one; they come in handy. Craftsman makes a decent one that won’t break the bank. You could always E-bay for a Matco, Snap On, etc.
There is another post on this exact same subject and vehicle. A few guys been trying to work it out. I have the same car myself with the same engine; this oil leak seems to be very. I’m still working on mine.
As an avid Honda enthusiast, I too, am aware of the plague that rust can play. I would recommend using a salt neutralizer on the undercarriage for anyone in an area where the roads are salted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1JBIGK75uk
Here us a link for a video of one brand. I personally haven’t used this one but have so with a similar product. It does work.
I would check the fuel pressure as well as the injectors. A Noid light would be ideal to rule out an electrical problem with the injectors. if you don’t have and no auto parts store near you will rent you a set I’d just use a multimeter. If their current flowing to the injectors remove them and see if they’re clogged. I’d be suspicious of cylinder 2 because of its misfire that doesn’t necessary mean that’s what’s causing the problem. I don’t’t have much experience with the make. Did this just start all of a sudden out of the blue? Do you feel the misfire?
I just wanted to thank you all for your time and your responses. I did a power balance test and ruled out a bad coil on cylinder #3. I replaced it and now running as it was before. Thanks again.
I WOULDN’T ASSUME HE WAS YELLING. SOME PEOPLE PREFER CAPITAL LETTERS. SINCE HE DID NOT USE ANY EXCLAMATORY GRAMMAR I WOULD ASSUME HE LIKES CAPITAL LETTERS
Quoted From thepartsman:
Technically Silicone is the wrong products for metal, just look at the MSDS sheets from GE. It was designed to lubricate rubber parts at a max of 400 degrees and for that job it is perfect, because there are no petroleum distillates in it. On the other hand, when you work with metal to metal applications you need solids to separate the parts as they move, a boundary lubricant. Additionally, when silicone get above 475 degrees, it does something called volatilize (vaporize). The oil begin to disappear and convert back to raw silica, which is actually sand. Technically, when Silicone grease is over heated, it turns into a gritty paste and you really don’t want that between two pieces of metal or on a slide pin in a caliper.
If you are looking at anti-seize you have another problem. The most popular products (typical ones at autoparts store), are more that 60% low temperature mineral oil. To that is added about 30% to 45% calcium fluoride powder (talc like substance) as the thickening agent. Finally, 3% to 5% of copper or aluminum is added to give it color and allow them to call it high quality. Again, when the temperature rises above 400 degrees, the oil begins to evaporate and what is left is a pasty white sticky powder that really is good for nothing. I you want to look at what the OE approves for brakes, check out Ceramlub this web site… CeramicBrakeLube. com Hope this is explains it better….
It is possible to have “silicone grease” still fluid like above these temperatures; it depends on the siloxane utilised for its synthesis as well as the other reafent involved. Some reactions simply use water. this however creates hydrochloric acid and a stiffer less pliable silicone. If some of the original siloxane, usually polydimethylsiloxane is substituited with acetate then you will get a more fluid like and slower curing silicones. These silicones are similar to those in caulking (this is why most caulks have a vinegar like odor)
Also, the silicone doesn’t exactly vaporize per say. It technically vitrifies and forms an amorphous solid that still has some fludiity. This amorphous solid forms a glass like layer on top of the surface. this glass like layer has a lower static and dynamic coefficient of friction and therefore acts like a “dry” lubricant. However don’t confuse this concept with “dry lubricants” as for most of these are usually flurocarbon polymers like teflon.
Quoted From thepartsman:
Technically Silicone is the wrong products for metal, just look at the MSDS sheets from GE. It was designed to lubricate rubber parts at a max of 400 degrees and for that job it is perfect, because there are no petroleum distillates in it. On the other hand, when you work with metal to metal applications you need solids to separate the parts as they move, a boundary lubricant. Additionally, when silicone get above 475 degrees, it does something called volatilize (vaporize). The oil begin to disappear and convert back to raw silica, which is actually sand. Technically, when Silicone grease is over heated, it turns into a gritty paste and you really don’t want that between two pieces of metal or on a slide pin in a caliper.
If you are looking at anti-seize you have another problem. The most popular products (typical ones at autoparts store), are more that 60% low temperature mineral oil. To that is added about 30% to 45% calcium fluoride powder (talc like substance) as the thickening agent. Finally, 3% to 5% of copper or aluminum is added to give it color and allow them to call it high quality. Again, when the temperature rises above 400 degrees, the oil begins to evaporate and what is left is a pasty white sticky powder that really is good for nothing. I you want to look at what the OE approves for brakes, check out Ceramlub this web site… CeramicBrakeLube. com Hope this is explains it better….
What source are you getting these perncentages from with regard to the anti-seize
Quoted From 671tamuning:
I use this stuff…I havent had any issues with it. Is this all right?
http://www.permatex.com/products/automo … ormula.htm
I personally have not used Permatex Brand silicone; I use 3M, the same as Eric. I will have to get a can of permatex and try it out. If you haven’t had problems wit it, keep using it. Refresh it when you do your brakes next. Brake Kleen will disolve the residual silicone and grime. Use extreme caution when using Brake Kleen aroud the rubber seals because it will degrade it. Such rubber parts show substantial resistance to the acetone in Brake Kleen. Be safe…..