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Quoted From Beefy:
I got the Mac Tools 710 meter when I was in school for 50 percent off. It was still $140. It does RPM, and has a temp sensor. I think it only has a 10A range, but I’d have to run out to my truck to look. Overall, I love it, but you pay for the name of course. But at half off, and for all it offers, I love it.
I’ve never dealt with ATD meters, I was only offering my experience.
Thanks for your input; it is much appreciated. I have yet to decide.
Quoted From -BiRkS_:
I just finished replacing the oil pan gasket on my ’96 civic. Used an OEM gasket and a slight film coating of permatex on either side of the gasket to help hold the gasket in place. Snugged all bolts up, left it to cure for 24 hours, came back, torqued all bolts to spec….not a drop of oil since.
I did this same procedure to my aunt’s ’84 rx7 last june which gets driven pretty hard (rotary engines seem very happy running between 5-8 k rpm T)) and it gets very hot. No leaks so far.
I always like to use gaskets whenever possible. I only use the permatex or rtv just to help hold the gasket in place while installing. As Eric said…you must allow the sealant to cure before adding oil and MAKE SURE the surfaces are clean of all residue. (i use a clean rag with acetone to remove any contaminents)
+1 On the use of acetone, however, I would suggest brake kleen here over pure acetone because of the likely presence of heavy sludge and old gasket material. Brake Kleen constituites a mixture of acetone and heptane. Heptane, like Octane (i.e. gasoline’s main constituent) is a nonpolar hydrocarbon and therefore dissolves like compounds like oils and such. Heptane is sufficiently volatile that it will not leave an oily residue. It works synergestically with acetone. That’s what makes it such a potent degreaser.
If you are only replacing the gasket only; I would take this time to remove as much sludge as possible. I would run a quart on engine flush for about 20 minutes prior draining the oil. I would drain the oil while it is hot,taking advantage of its decreased viscosity, but I would not drop the pan until everything is cooled down; this will prevent the pan from possibly warping from cooling at a different rate then the block it is mated to. Once the pan is removed pour a quart or so of diesel or mineral spirits into the pan and scrub the pan with a brush. A household dish brush normally suffices. Dump the solvent and repat with fresh until the pan is clean. Then finish it off with the Brake Kleen. Always work in a well ventilated area. Be safe……
Salt is not soluble in nonpolar solvents such as any petroleum products like gas or diesel. That said my suggestion would be to remove the fuel pump from the inside and use a siphon to “Vacuum” out the salt. you can simply use some tubing and siphon into bucket. If you have an aquarium vacuum you could use that too. Don’t worry about stirring the salt up. It will simply settle in a few moments, much faster than in water. Depending on what size the grains of salt were I would doubt much of any got through into the tank itself.
Are you sure it’s salt and not sugar? I ask because sugar’s solubility and chemical behavior is somewhat different is gasoline.
Keep us posted
I would suggest you get a repair manual for your vehicle. you can usually buy a downloadable pdf on ebay for most cars and trucks. someone is always selling them. i usually get them for around $5.00 or so. I think this would be the best starting point.
It sounds like the brakes aren’t adjusted correctly. I would remove the automatic adjuster and shorten it as much as possible; this will retract the shoes further, allowing the drums to be put back on. Once the drum is put back on spin it. If you feel slight drag you’re good. If its loose take the drum off extend the adjuster slightly and retry. Repeat this until you feel a slight drag. Also, make sure you’re parking brake cables are not engaged or hanging up due to rust and the like. Let me know how you make out
I have experienced a similar situation with my own Civic. The original coil went; I replaced it and it ran fine for about 2k miles before stalling in a busy intersection. I traced it back to the coil again. I replaced the coil, rotor and cap; it has been running great ever since. I would check the distributor gasket. I found that they tend to pinch in sometimes and the moisture that seeps in tends to prematurely age your coil so to speak. What coil brand and igniter did you use the lat time you changed them?
The flare nut of the break line screws into the cylinder. if you have a flare nut wrench that fits that would be best. A regular wrench would be adequate as well. once you disconnect the line be careful not to get an contaminants in it. the wheel cylinder should bolt wright off the black plate. As for brake fluid, open the reservoir and fill it to the brim before starting this project. You will lose some fluid! Be sure the fluid level does not go below the minimum fill line. If it does you will lose the prime of the master cylinder and will have bleed the whole system. If you keep the level adequate you will only have to bleed the back brake lines. A bottle of brake fluid is an adequate supply; you will need only a few ounces. Once you reinstall the cylinder and brake shoes….DO NOT test the brake lines for leaks until you put the drum back on. Bleed with the drum on as well. You can always take it off to inspect the cylinder seals. Engaging the breaks without the drum on will cause the cylinder to over extend and separate, leaving you with a blown seal and a mess. Hope this helps. BE SAFE
Check eBay. I know you can get them it lots ranging from 1-100 for between 50 cents and a dollar a piece
THE BRAKES ARE PROPERLY ADJUSTED. ONE CABLE (PASSENGER SIDE) IS APPROXIMATELY 1.5 INCHES LONGER THAN THE OTHER.
Lithium grease is bad for rubber because it is simply petroleum based grease with a lithium complex added to further reduce friction. Dielectric grease and silicone paste are essentially the same thing. Although various additives may be added depending on its intended use (automotive,marine, etc.) they are both made predominantly of silicone; silicone is made from silicone oil and fumed silica. Hope this helps.