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I agree with that. Craftsman sent their production to China and its been downhill ever since. I buy used snapon/MATCO/MAC on ebay. I agree the price is hyped but the quality is there. I buy used because with a lifetime warranty what does it really matter. As Far as PM is concerned you might want to check out True Value stores. I worked for them years ago and they sold them. They have “Master Mechanic” line too. They’re comparable to stanley. Have you bough anything new lately
I agree with that. Craftsman sent their production to China and its been downhill ever since. I buy used snapon/MATCO/MAC on ebay. I agree the price is hyped but the quality is there. I buy used because with a lifetime warranty what does it really matter. As Far as PM is concerned you might want to check out True Value stores. I worked for them years ago and they sold them. They have “Master Mechanic” line too. They’re comparable to stanley. Have you bough anything new lately
I would look at OTC tools. Their website is otctools.com
The cheapest prices for their tools are on amazon. I usually look for what i want at their website and copy and paste the part number.
Good Luck
Let us know what you end up buying.
I would look at OTC tools. Their website is otctools.com
The cheapest prices for their tools are on amazon. I usually look for what i want at their website and copy and paste the part number.
Good Luck
Let us know what you end up buying.
Some hoses come with that piece. It is essentially a piece of tubing (often heat and chemical resistant) that merely sleeves over the end of the hose. This prevents kinking at this point and reduces the stress put on the point where the hose attaches to the fitting. Stress here can cause tiny wholes which can cause leaks; however, if you had such a leak it would be constant. I would bet that your leak is caused by a poor fitting nipple and quick connect which is common with use. As the metal parts are always in contact and swiveling they begin to wear down ever so slightly, and air begins to pass by. It really isn’t a an issue (most of the time), but I don’t know how bad your leak is. I tend to use Husky brand swivel nipples (which decrease the stress and they’re cheaper than most swivel nipples–Not to mention the quality is descent and stainless steel). If the leak is bothering you I would start with a brand new (brass) quick disconnect. The first thing to where is the steel balls in the quick disconnect. If you any questions let me know; feel free to continue the thread or private message me. I am here to help.
Some hoses come with that piece. It is essentially a piece of tubing (often heat and chemical resistant) that merely sleeves over the end of the hose. This prevents kinking at this point and reduces the stress put on the point where the hose attaches to the fitting. Stress here can cause tiny wholes which can cause leaks; however, if you had such a leak it would be constant. I would bet that your leak is caused by a poor fitting nipple and quick connect which is common with use. As the metal parts are always in contact and swiveling they begin to wear down ever so slightly, and air begins to pass by. It really isn’t a an issue (most of the time), but I don’t know how bad your leak is. I tend to use Husky brand swivel nipples (which decrease the stress and they’re cheaper than most swivel nipples–Not to mention the quality is descent and stainless steel). If the leak is bothering you I would start with a brand new (brass) quick disconnect. The first thing to where is the steel balls in the quick disconnect. If you any questions let me know; feel free to continue the thread or private message me. I am here to help.
I didn’t missed any parts,but thank you. Any other ideas please let me know. I’m looking for a diagnostic procedure for the EGR valve to asses the lift its getting. My service manual doesn’t do the best of jobs. If you can think of a better resource let me know. Thanks
I didn’t missed any parts,but thank you. Any other ideas please let me know. I’m looking for a diagnostic procedure for the EGR valve to asses the lift its getting. My service manual doesn’t do the best of jobs. If you can think of a better resource let me know. Thanks
I have a 21 gallon craftsman; I’ve had it for years and seems to to do the job. The only air tools I can’t use with it are sanders and paint sprayers, given the small volume. I’d recommend the the craftsman. It is a Devilbiss brand compressor. I seem to have more luck with Devilbiss products compard to Campbell Hausfield. Let us Know what you end up getting.
I have a 21 gallon craftsman; I’ve had it for years and seems to to do the job. The only air tools I can’t use with it are sanders and paint sprayers, given the small volume. I’d recommend the the craftsman. It is a Devilbiss brand compressor. I seem to have more luck with Devilbiss products compard to Campbell Hausfield. Let us Know what you end up getting.
I would go with weller. I have been using them for years and never had a problem. Do not cheap out, get a station model not just a straight plugin model. For example: tis one on amazon is a good buy
remember that the solder and flux are just as important and should vary according to what you are soldering. If you have any questions about this let me know; i would be glad to assist you. Dont skimp on wattage; its nice to have a high wattage capability, this way you can silver solder if appropriate for your project.
I would go with weller. I have been using them for years and never had a problem. Do not cheap out, get a station model not just a straight plugin model. For example: tis one on amazon is a good buy
remember that the solder and flux are just as important and should vary according to what you are soldering. If you have any questions about this let me know; i would be glad to assist you. Dont skimp on wattage; its nice to have a high wattage capability, this way you can silver solder if appropriate for your project.