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Quoted From outdoorsman310:
i might try to make one from a bottle jack and some type of metal frame. i probably wont though.
I have such press. Metal frame and bottle jack. But the bottle jack has to remain its vertical position. Dont have a photo but the priciple is similar to this.
http://plursull.info/20-ton-hydraulic-f … -jack.aspx
But a simplified version. I don’t have adjustable hight, and that bar under the jack, also the jack is just hanging on the top.
But tat bar is a must, without it jack kas a tendency to move to side and slip off (dangeroues). I have to upgrade mine. I have to change front wheel bearing, it will be the first serious test.I use standard jack stands, but I value my health and life so high that I take extra time to put something strong under the car (in my case wheels removed from car I’m working on). I put them in a place I’m not working on, but the car will be supported on disks in case jack stands fail, I don’t care about damage done to car in this scenario.
In case jack stands would fail the car would drop on that object, not on me. In normal situation this object is not supporting car maybe not even touch it. But in case car drops it gives me enough space to escape, and a safer feeling while working under a car specially if situations when higher torque or force is required. (changing clutch and removing or putting back transmission for example).
Jack stands just look too me to tiny to they’re rated capacity, I have a 3 ton jack stands, so 4 of them are able to hold 12 ton. But they look so tiny and skinny that it does not make me feel safe, so I put tires under the car.
As important as jack stands is proper floor to put them on, sometimes the floor could fail (asphalt for example), or the car could just fall without braking jack stands.
That’s how I work.
1) Jack up the car
2)put it on Jack stands.
3) Then I try to shake the car and make sure I can not get the car to fall,
4) then I put tires under the car, (IF small job and no big forces applied to car, sometimes I skip this step)
5) and only then I lay my body under the car.Both Snap On Vantage and PicoScope are professional tools. It is good investment for professionals, but if you plan use it for 1 or 2 hours per month (and dont make money using it), then it is a bad investment and waste of money.
I had a similar post here:
[url=http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=159:3kmv50qj]http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/topics.aspx?ID=159I[/url] also repair only my own car and try to help friends but do not charge for that.
For about a year I have One channel oscilloscope called DSO NANO (Google for it and will find).
It does have a screen, so you do not need a laptop to use it. The price – 80$ included shipping.
For about 200 $ you can get similar scope but with 4 channels and higher bandwidth and costs about 200$. Google for DSO Quad.
If it is your hobby, I would not spend too much money on scope.I have the Nano scope for about a year, at the beginning I used it a lot, just to look at waveforms knowing the car is OK, but as I don’t have any electrical problems on my car I dont use as often lately.
I would suggest a regular scope minimum 2 channels low requirements for bandwidth for all, except data signals. for data signals you might need 5MHz oscilloscope(some 25MS/s), for everything else (Sensors, Actuators and Ignition) the nano is fine 1MS/s, and shows good forms up to 200 KHz signals. Current clamp and High voltage (for ignition) is recommended. If you are new to scopes, be careful not to burn your scope by connecting it to ignition vires using standard probes. The DSO Nano can handle up to +/- 400V so it is fine for primary ignition(for my car), but not for scondary.
If you decide to use DSO Nano – the original firmware is Junk, but the unit is open source and you can install other firmware benF is the author of this firmware.
And Digital Scope is Much better then analog, highly recommend only digital scope.Picoscope (only 4000 series picoscope works vs automotive oscilloscope software) is about 1000$ without accessories, but you will need them, if include accessories, the price goes up to 2000$. Lower end picoscopes don’t work with specially designed software for automotive use, they can use standard scope software. I don’t know how much money can you spend for your hobby, but I think that 2000$ is a lot of money just for hobby use tool, better invest in quality hand tools. And the 4000 series ir scope and that is it, it does not have code reader or anything else. Power probe 3 is the next electrical tool I dlike to get.
What I like in picoscope is the information they give for free. You can download trial automotive software that simulates supported scopes un use it to learn how to connect to components, how waveforms should look like. Also lot of case studies in the picoscope homepage.I use starter to get this bolt of. I have heard that you can damage engine that way, I did not.
You just have to make sure that the the wrench will not spin and damage that way something.
Here is a video instruction.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI&feature=relatedI believe there is no use for torque multiplier for Accord or Civic repairs. It is better to invest in torque wrench, so you can torque bolts correctly.
Torque multiplier might be usable for lorry or bus repairs, but not for small cars.