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[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=138552][quote=”MDK22″ post=138520]I am with chevyman21 it accelerates rust. It is supposed to create this protective electrical charge. The only problem is most people never thing about how molecules bond together it is via electrons or protons in most cases. Any electrical charge positive or negative will attract electrons. Negative attracting other molecules which will then attract other molecules and so on and so forth. If anything the car frame is already grounded so in theory it is already in a negative state which would be the most ambitious of the two states to prevent rust. The best would be neutral but, that would require a hell of a lot more wiring increasing price and fuel consumption not to mention decreasing reliability.
All and all it is bs and not even advertised that well. Not to mention sending any kind of charge not setup normally in the car is bound to mess with thebattery if not sensors.[/quote] Exactly. One needs to know at least basic chemistry to even have a chance at making an effective solution. When Iron corrodes as a base element it goes from FE to FEO2/FEO3. The O2 and O3 indicates oxygen atoms bonding with the iron. The atomic weight and electron count of iron is much higher than that of oxygen so the bond is very unstable and the iron begins to deteriorate. The only way to truly stabilize is to convert it to FE04….black rust.
PS: Steel is an iron alloy and therefore is impure iron. The more impurities iron has in it, the faster it corrodes as well. High Carbon steel will corrode faster than mild steel as well due to being even more impure. Chromium, Nickel and Lead are other alloying elements that resist corrosion. Have you ever wondered why stainless steel has such excellent corrosion resistance and sheen? Chromium is the answer or as the kids call it “Chrome”.[/quote]
Never seen a rusty DeLorean 🙂 or 1999/2000 Volvo V70 XC.
And, Fopeano.. Why does yours look like either a Euro or a GLI? 🙂
But that grille, from a “3VW” MexiVolks .. I don’t like. The 86 had a finer grill.
Let me see if I can find a pic of a car LIKE mine.
[quote=”Fopeano” post=138485]The real question is, How could you ever let them go?! Just kidding, man, I can fix anything, but sometimes things happen that are just not reasonable to deal with as cars age. I have a 89 325i sitting outside now that I daily drove for 5 years and is my favorite car ever, but It rusty and needs to be gutted to replace the vehicle wiring harness. I just don’t have the facility to fix it now or anytime soon, but I can’t let the car go.
The original Jetta was a mexiwagen and the floors were rotting out when I got it, but you’ll be happy to know I bought a WVW car with a perfect donor shell to replace the rusty Mexican one. I just gutted the German shell completely, and swapped every single part from the original car into it over a 3 day weekend. Afterwards, I cut up the junk Mexican shell with a Sawzall and took the pieces to the scrapyard with my friend’s pickup truck. That was July 4th weekend 2003.
The only way to keep things around a long time is to preserve them effectively, which is what I’ve done with my Jetta. No winter, salt, or rain, garaged with cover on in, put cover on it when I drive it to work to protect it from sun, pressure wash and dry underbody/suspension parts and WD-40 suspension parts every spring and fall, and even more ridiculous things than that.
Glad you had your good times with yours though, dude. So many drivers never even know what it’s like to drive a proper automobile. I drove my Jetta to work today, and it’s just great to drive. 2 more years and I can register it as an antique and run historical plates.[/quote]
Mine had the Wolfsburg castle on the side 🙂 and was in fact a “Deluxe.”
It got T-boned by the last year of “Chevrolet Caprice Classic” I think 1990.. Taxicab. Spun me around an intersection and it was going like 30 to 40MPH. The emblem of the Caprice was right in the B-pillar.. and THOUGH THE DOORS DENTED SHUT (obviously,) the GLASS DID NOT EVEN BREAK. (!!!) .. I jumped out the other side and drove the car for a week after that. Drove it out of the impound the same day…
My Uncles told me that “Frame damage” meant it HAD to get scrapped and they did it WITHOUT EVEN ASKING ME. … This happened ON THE DRIVER’S SIDE and MY PASSENGER TOLD ME THAT IF I WAS IN A HONDA CIVIC THAT THE CAR LIKELY WOULD HAVE RIPPED IN HALF OR AT LEAST I’D HAVE A PINCHED LEG.
The BMW just got regular old stolen in Irvington NJ.
This was in 2001 and 2003.. before Smartphones, Facebook.. so I really do have like ZERO pics of these cars. I have not been able to find even one. Even in old photos.
🙁
BMW VIN: WBAAB 5402G 9673364. So.. YES, ETA… YES, 1986.. YES, M-Technic. (My memory is that good since I can’t help but feel like my car got re-sold and someone has my ride.) <— Decode THAT.. Mr. Fopeano! 😀
Like I said.. VW Jetta 1ST CAR.. BMW E30 as SECOND CAR! :woohoo:
^^ Delphin Grey on that BIMMER, since "BEAMER" refers to the MOTORCYCLE BMWs in proper Bayerische Motoren Werke slang. 😉
I wish one of you all had bought my Uncle’s welding shop – yes, with a lift – in 2012..
Residential/Commercial mixed. 10 E 48th St.. Bayonne NJ 07002. I don’t even walk past there anymore and I live one block away…
[quote=”Blayber” post=138447]Great video hope to see more[/quote]
Thank you! 🙂
I think I may have to remove entire Air Conditioner assembly to get to those last two bolts…
[quote=”cap269″ post=138438]Well, keep us posted on how it turns out. I’m curious to find out if it was indeed a bearing (and which side).[/quote]
Absolutely. No doubt I will do just that.
I also thought I would make a little update video for you all 🙂 Here is that!
[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=108380]Like my old Buick Regal was before the engine went out for the second time, could run into a shopping cart, play bumper cars with my buddies didn’t madder, it ran well for the most part before the engine spun yet another connecting rod bearing, you just don’t know what you are getting when you get a engine from a junk yard.[/quote]
Quoted for truth.
My S-10 Blazer has had 5 engines through; due to at least 3 in a row, from.. *dun-dun-DUNNN…* – ….. Junk yards.
Fopeano and JS: We are about to be new best friends..
Not sure how to bold on here but MY FIRST CAR WAS A 1986 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA DELUXE! I LOVED that car.
2nd car: 1986 BMW 325es!!!! – ETA engine! 2.7L! M-Technic package!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😀
… and Vin WVW on my Jetta too, so. No Mexican VW for me 😀
[quote=”cap269″ post=138425]Eric gives the wheel the wiggle test in the video. While your bearings may not be as bad as those, the idea is the same. Here’s a good video that details the process of checking the bearings.
BTW, there is a reason that you have both A4WD and 4Hi. Here is a summary:
[/quote]I checked out the video just now. Weird how the back wheels spun BACKWARDS at about 30:24 when he turned the wheel forward.. was the 4Runner in 4WD? I had an AWD Volvo (both 1999 and 2000 V70 XC) that did the same..
BUT, cool info about A4WD! Good idea. I used it in the rain.. I only put it on in the rain.. Then turn it right back off.. if I feel like I need more control, to avoid stupid drivers.. it basically sounds a “Select AWD,” which is smart. The Volvo is the best AWD system I ever dealt with, though.. aside from the 4-Hi in my S10.. which only needs it in snow……….
I suppose I should get this jack. THOUGH, it has been said that “The truck is going into the shop on Monday.” Between 200 and 300 miles (easily) more will be on it since then. And the GMC.. will be hitting 200,000 this month. 🙂
So, the noise means that it isn’t “That bad” yet? The noise can really go away? (I know that isn’t good. The truck is going in to a shop with a lift.. trusted family mechanic that always does a great job. No idea how much he costs, though. Probably on the low side of high, since he quotes book then tries to give as big a discount as he can, for the repeat business.)
I’ll also need one for when it comes time to jack up my slightly raised SUV. Has 31″ tires, adds an inch of ride height…
[quote=”desertdude” post=138299]Looking for a paper logbook to note all of my maintenance and gas fill ups. Any suggestions?
Also, as trivial as this seems, I’m also interested in the proper pen to be using. The notebook I used for the last 15 years was a cheap $1 pad that wrinkled badly after getting wet a couple times.
I used a wide assortment of pens to make notes. The gel or water based ink pens are trash. In some cases, the ink completely washed off the pages when they got wet. Some of the ink from the BIC type pens oxidized(?) over the years and is barely readable.[/quote]
Not to make light of your situation, but I have encountered similar. Those rainy days. They can get ya. I know.
You are perhaps motivating me to keep that cheap $1 memo pad in a plastic ziplock baggie.
And it is always Pentech G2 pens for me. I TRY to keep a good pen.. but the cats get them and play with them, and they fall out of pockets of my shorts, so. AS MUCH AS I TRY TO KEEP MY BEST PENS THAT ALSO DON’T COST A FORTUNE, I get a new pen every week…
[quote=”DailyGold” post=138305]Not paper, but…I just use my Google Drive…if you have a smart phone or other device, your info will always be with you and is easily accessible. Just a thought[/quote]
I like to be more old-school with my logs, since the age of Dump Smartphones is upon us (come on now, who actually uses Siri or Google Voice.. OK that’s another discussion) but the reason is that, it seems.. Every 6 months to a year, you need a new phone.
SO, for a maintenance log.. Either a Memo Pad OR an actual notebook finds its way into every car I have (*presently the Honda Civic and the S10 Blazer.)
It gets its VIN number, the year of the truck, and the miles on the odometer. SOMETIMES I write the options or description under it (for the Honda, it states “EJ1, 2-door coupe, EX, Automatic, Sunroof, Made In Canada.” Then, it states after an asterisk: *Engine changed to D15Z1.) This is the “Header” of the Memo. Page 1, at the top.
Then I draw a line.
Then, under the line, I write each log:
– The Mileage of when something happened, EVEN FLUIDS CHANGE OR OIL CHANGE.
– The date along WITH the mileage.And yes, pens can freeze in the glovebox, and I never want to be a guy that takes a lighter to try to get the ink to flow. So.. When that happens, I get a non-frozen pen from in the house.. and write. 🙂 (since ink on old old pens dries up as well.)
