Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
[quote=”nightflyr” post=161695]To confrim a bad coil pack:
Suggest you switch it with a know good one and see if the miss fire follows the pack.[/quote]
That’s a very good idea. Issue is, front and rear banks use diff coil packs, and rear has one “blocked in.”This is the guide I used in checking for resistance. Again, the fronts have zero issue:
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Isn’t there a thing that plugs into cigarette lighter to maintain ECU power while the battery is out?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”nightflyr” post=161114]This should get you started:
As to the spider injection:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8At2P3XEVc%5B/quote%5D
The post got messed up, I can’t see the link ..Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
In case of variances, you should always defer to the sticker under the hood, unless you know it’s inaccurate due to an engine change or something.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
Let’s just clarify: at 3 QUARTS OVERFULL (that’s a lot, anything more than 1 is a lot,) is he risking Catastrophic engine damage? (Yes..)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
[quote=”no_common_sense” post=160902]+1 for fuel filter maintenance if needed.
If you don’t have a vacuum gauge for testing, you can remove the upstream O2 and go for a test drive. If the misfire goes away, then yes, there is a restriction. You’d want to reinstall the O2 and disconnect the back end of the cat from the rest of the exhaust. If your misfire comes back, then the cat is plugged. If the misfire stays gone with the exhaust opened behind the cat, then something else farther down the exhaust is plugged up. Don’t count the holy muffler out yet, there could still be something clogged at the front of the muffler. Does it seem pretty quiet in spite of that sizable hole?
Remember that fuel pressure regulators go bad often enough on the spider injectors too. It could feed a misfire problem and explain the long crank times. When the regulators start leaking, they most often foul out the number four cylinder IIRC. The pressure regulator can be replaced by itself if need be. Find scanner danner on youtube and he’ll have a video just for this engine.
The poppet nozzles get clogged often enough on the injectors as well. Do some fuel pressure drop testing if you can to verify any restrictions. As long as they’re not completely blocked, an injector cleaning service at a shop should get them opened up and working normally. I had one of my poppets completely blocked and I used a nitrogen blaster to open up the poppets, but that’s a rare device to find in any shop.
This should get you started. Keep us posted and good luck.[/quote]
Damn. #4 cyl was the worst lookin plug. Wow. Nice attention to detail! 😀
And I saw the trick about unbolting those two bolts, where header goes to cat.. I want to spray PB Blaster to increase my chances of smooth removal.
Will re-read, and see what I can do. Fuel filter will likely be next. I did it in 15 minutes once, yes got rained on with fuel, biggest issue was rust. Of course, cool car, first thing a.m. when it’s time.. because it’s gas, duh.
Will keep posted.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
Any fully charged battery should run an engine for the “RC,” or Reserve Capacity, length of time. I’ve had enough bad alternators and been too broke to know this.
Never heard of a battery that didn’t have a Reserve Capacity of at least 90 minutes..
And. Another piece of info, “I LEARNED THIS FROM HACKS THAT DON’T NECESSARILY CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR” but I’ll out it out there: I know more now… : A car should still run when you take the negative cable, or both (negative first..) off. Though that’s probably putting electrical components at high risk, depending on the car. Use extreme caution but if you take it off and engine dies.. bad alternator.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
^^ For reference: here is what it has improved FROM. IT has gotten better since this video. And please ignore me saying “It has been diagnosed as” .. It hasnt.. I haven’t gotten a diagnosis, but I got to posting here because I know a bunch of folks that are good at “guessing.”
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
[quote=”KableGuy” post=160891]When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?[/quote]
It’s probably never been changed.OH. I ALMOST FORGOT: For some weird reason, I sometimes have to push the spark plug boots back down on the “points” of the distributor. They don’t come off, but about “4” of them go “up” to the point where I have to push them back down to “click” onto the dizzy. I wonder if it’s the same at the plugs. Routing does appear to be correct, I have a Haynes manual diagram and I’ve double-checked it. Can triple check (routing) but I do believe it is right..
So. Fuel filter. Hmmmm.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
Can I ask something? Not to threadjack, but. I have similar issue. Odd slow behavior after timing belt.. Mechanical timing power verified correct, now simply no power. I have codes 41 and 7.. O2 sensor, and Throttle Position Sensor. I also still have the 95 Civic, 1.5L.
Any updates on OP’S situation?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
I did this, pretty aggeessively.
Car runs better than it ever has, but it did not clear P0420 so, did not increase efficiency of the cat.
KEY: After your run it HARD for as LONG AS you can, DILUTE WITH FUEL, DILUTE WITH FUEL, DILUTE WITH FUEL, and DILUTE WITH FUEL AGAIN. Do NOT WAIT for tank to get low.. do it like at QUARTER TANKS. This will save whatever Ill effects of that stuff wants to do.
People tell me I am lucky I did not do damage with how much i used. If you do it in the course of about ONE DAY, AND DILUTE WITH FUEL.. You are still playing with fire, but you stand only a small chance of getting burned since that stuff damaged with PROLONGED contact. A few hours of hard use, goal is to make everything HOT, beat it up a little.. and Italian Tune-Up, if it doesn’t kill your car will make it run better than it ever has.
I still need a new cat, though 🙂 Or, try actual cleaning. If you have time, but not money, try that first.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
[quote=”DaFirnz” post=153974]What makes you think that you need to clean out your cooling system so thoroughly? Unless someone put GM Dexcool in it years ago, it shouldn’t be too bad. Eric has a video on heater core flushing. Unless your system is really that contaminated, I’m going to say you would be better off just draining and filling your radiator a few times, once any excess water gets into the system it becomes a pain to get the mix back in check.
It would also be a good idea to try and go back to the genuine Honda coolant as it comes premixed and shouldn’t carry that much of a premium.[/quote]
My radiator[IMG]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/10/1e428ff7776cd429b05b8fcc81b97988.jpg[/IMG]
:good:
What my car is doing:
1. I turn it on, it drives fine. Fun. Yay.
2. At some point the temp creeps up past hafway.
3. Concerned, I pull over.
4. I open hood.. no signs of overheating. I put my hand on hoses and everything.
5. Confused, I put the car to “Ignition/run” and let the e-fan come on.
6. Temperature then returns to normal usually in 2 minutes, sometimes it takes about 5 minutes.
7. Start it back up, and go on my merry way.
8. Happened again..Now, either I have not bled out all my air (I DID change a Thermostat an hour before,) or.. ???? Radiator? Clog?
Will re-read your response now.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
I just ran into one of my former co-worker homies, and they:
1. (Seem to have) FIXED THE IDLE. IACV electrical connector was not plugged in…
2. Told me my “Distributor was too far advanced,” told me how to adjust it, demonstrated by letting me hear a “pop” sound when revving, told me that I should adjust it soon because it can damage the motor.
Nice…