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OP, did your car ever overheat?
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I could be wrong but… Law says “attached,” I don’t know about “functioning.” As long as no Check Engine Light…
Eric lives in Ohio (I think,) perhaps he has some input on this?
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[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160322/1cc802f23ff77cc93137060d8271f673.jpg[/IMG]
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[quote=”shaun” post=162097]Try jumping (bypassing) the clutch switch. Just don’t forget it may crank and drive away from you with it bypassed.[/quote]
Jack not ramp the drive wheels (front) up on both sides or otherwise off the ground (like on a lift,) that won’t happen.
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^^^ The top of the coil seems to have separated from the bottom in Cylinder number 2. It should be easy enough to get out..
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OK! Update:
Its now either P0303, or its all cleared up.
I *MAY* switch Cylinders 3 and 1.. but, I have new coil coming anyway.
Problem may be solved.
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[quote=”Summer_Night” post=161404]I am still new to manual cars…
Seeing how in a manual, the wheels are basically “locked” to the engine, I wonder something –
If you have it in gear and the engine just loses power like say the ignition or fuel system fails, how abruptly does the car stop or would the wheels keep engine turning or…?I got to wondering that cause the other day I tried to “park” the car in 4th or 5th gear (didn’t use E-brake), I didn’t think it mattered until it started to slowly roll since it was on a slight incline. Come to find out, in high gears the wheels can drive the engine, so to speak… Note to self – FIRST gear serves as park, along with E brake…
So what of it? I mean would this be a serious catastrophe if losing engine power on the highway? I mean yeah you could put it in neutral real quick but for that second when the engine died but car rolling, what would that mean for the engine, the car itself, and one’s safety?[/quote]
About being “locked to the engine,” when the engine is turning at a 1:1 ratio (high gear) then MAYBE. The clutch is the intermediary.The least amount of time you have the clutch engaged in any situation, the better.
Though, I have my own question.. I have a 99 Nissan Maxima stick shift. Where do I change the manual transmission fluid? And is it engine oil? Its been a very long time for me with stick shift cars.. I forget all details.
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One of the good things about just about every manual trans I have ever seen is that you CAN “pop-start” from a dead battery. I left the lights on by accident for three hours. Yes.. Battery died . Pop-started (roll car, doesn’t have to be going too fast but kind of fast, pop clutch and turn key at same time, when you realize it starts rev it a little, stop car, clutch down, take off.) And that was just before a long highway drive so I think I was ok.
And I got really lucky because if that was an auto trans, as most care are … I’d have been stuck. At the worst possible time.
+1 on engine sieze being worst possible. Some people say you can let MMO or trans fluid sit in cylinders and let it work its way free (heat applied and ATF+Acetone is way more aggressive if going that route, along with prayer and trying turning by hand every day or so, praying your cylinder walls didn’t get all chewed up) but I’m not sure…
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BTW: Here are my three rear plugs.
I did have one dead coil. Let’s see the result of replacing it…
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160319/287564f93d5f00bd61c29c6cc0c972a4.jpg[/IMG]
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Sweet.. One of the actual Nissan OEM (OE?) coils just came.
If I had only one dead coil, I can get this licked (fixed) today…
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160319/2e71dc5c2b26ecba234f5afb29c97379.jpg[/IMG]
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246k on mine 🙂
Runs like Day 1.
Shooting for as high as it can go without succumbing to these roads ..
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[quote=”nightflyr” post=161727]I’m assuming you have at least one coil pack that is working on each bank.
Use that as your test coil.[/quote]
:good:Seems like there is either one bad coil for certain, or two bad coils side by side on that rear bank. Swapping them out and changing one for the other yield an exact same result. Its still P0300. Light even turns itself off after blinking sometimes.
And the one in the rear corner has other things on top of it.
So I ordered three new OEM coils today..
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Orange spark is weak
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[quote=”Wretzel” post=161726]Correct. But I’ve just edited the above to correct terminology: the oil is on the spark plug electrodes, not the terminals as I previously wrote.[/quote]
Ok.So you suspect that for some reason, oil is flooding the cylinders and thus fouling it out enough to not start, right?
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Any other suggestions or ?
I’ll read the codes again when I get home.
I can hear muted “pops” sometimes. So, I know a misfits is happening .. 🙁
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