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Haha yeah, that’s why I asked if you saw bubbles if you were to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (turning the steering wheel to each extreme). Yeah, I wouldn’t replace the pump until it’s completely out. It’s not like you have a choice right now with the storm anyway haha.
I’m sure you’d be able to find a wiring diagram for that switch to the ecu, that way you wouldn’t have to dig around the harness.
Haha yeah, that’s why I asked if you saw bubbles if you were to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (turning the steering wheel to each extreme). Yeah, I wouldn’t replace the pump until it’s completely out. It’s not like you have a choice right now with the storm anyway haha.
I’m sure you’d be able to find a wiring diagram for that switch to the ecu, that way you wouldn’t have to dig around the harness.
Thanks for the input everyone! The tensioner had gone out so the belt skipped a few teeth lol. Glad it didn’t snap. It’s now back on the road.
Thanks for the input everyone! The tensioner had gone out so the belt skipped a few teeth lol. Glad it didn’t snap. It’s now back on the road.
Gotcha gotcha. The reason why I ask is because if you run the wrong fluid in it for an extended period of time, it will cause p/s pump failure. Was the pump making noise before you replaced the switch?
EDIT: If it needs to be bled, even though a small amount of fluid leaked out, you would see bubbles inside the reservoir. Move the steering wheel from lock to lock, turn the car off, and open the cap to see if there are a bunch of bubbles. Like if you blew into a straw while it was in a cup of milk or something (the bubble will be a lot smaller though lol).
Gotcha gotcha. The reason why I ask is because if you run the wrong fluid in it for an extended period of time, it will cause p/s pump failure. Was the pump making noise before you replaced the switch?
EDIT: If it needs to be bled, even though a small amount of fluid leaked out, you would see bubbles inside the reservoir. Move the steering wheel from lock to lock, turn the car off, and open the cap to see if there are a bunch of bubbles. Like if you blew into a straw while it was in a cup of milk or something (the bubble will be a lot smaller though lol).
Oh, and the fuel filter is not inside the tank. It’s on the frame on the driver’s side. You might need a special tool to disconnect the fuel lines, but it may have those plastic tabs that you can squeeze together. I can’t remember off the top of my head.
Oh, and the fuel filter is not inside the tank. It’s on the frame on the driver’s side. You might need a special tool to disconnect the fuel lines, but it may have those plastic tabs that you can squeeze together. I can’t remember off the top of my head.
I guess you can replace the fuel filter since it hasn’t been replaced, but you should diagnose before you throw parts at it. Super easy way to tell whether or not it is fuel related is to spray quick start in the throttle body. If it wants to start, it’s fuel related and you can go from there. The videos that were posted above are your friends, use ’em! haha
I guess you can replace the fuel filter since it hasn’t been replaced, but you should diagnose before you throw parts at it. Super easy way to tell whether or not it is fuel related is to spray quick start in the throttle body. If it wants to start, it’s fuel related and you can go from there. The videos that were posted above are your friends, use ’em! haha
The code should reset, but it usually takes quite a few drive cycles.
Is there ATF+4 in the power steering system, or is it regular power steering fluid?
The code should reset, but it usually takes quite a few drive cycles.
Is there ATF+4 in the power steering system, or is it regular power steering fluid?
The squeaking could be as simple as replacing ur brakes. Have you checked them? Also, ur rotor, if that’s the “disc” you’re referring to, could be scraping against the dust shield that sits behind it. Best thing to do is to raise the front of the vehicle and put it on some jacks, put it in drive (or you can spin the rotors by hand) and listen for the noise.
As for your concern about the exhaust having to be dropped, the answer is most likely. I’ve done two on an F series and I had to drop the exhaust a little. You can just take the hangers off of the rubber boots though. That should give you enough clearance. Eric did this in his most recent video when he replaced the O2 sensor on the RL. Hope this helps!
The squeaking could be as simple as replacing ur brakes. Have you checked them? Also, ur rotor, if that’s the “disc” you’re referring to, could be scraping against the dust shield that sits behind it. Best thing to do is to raise the front of the vehicle and put it on some jacks, put it in drive (or you can spin the rotors by hand) and listen for the noise.
As for your concern about the exhaust having to be dropped, the answer is most likely. I’ve done two on an F series and I had to drop the exhaust a little. You can just take the hangers off of the rubber boots though. That should give you enough clearance. Eric did this in his most recent video when he replaced the O2 sensor on the RL. Hope this helps!