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Awesome job! My only question is that you have to add at least 2hrs extra labor, and it could still damage the CV axel, so would just replacing the cv axle be a more logical solution? I’ve had to deal with some stuck one’s even here in the South, but nothing that bad.
One thing is that there is a stereotype that if someone has a big snap on box, they are serious techs. This is usually true I am afraid. Not always, but usually.
I used to buy everything off the Snap-On truck. I ended up with a lot of debt. I actually sold them back my toolbox just to get out of debt. I believe that they are the best, but not always worth the price tag, especially if it’s a tool you don’t use much or is nessasary to be “perfect”. One thing about Snap-On tools is that they just work, while most of the others, you have to work at it a bit.
Their tool boxes is what really amazes me. The 3 bank 72″ series bottom roller is starting near thirteen grand. My next box will be the Extreme series from strictly toolboxes. 1/4 of the price, made here in the USA, and actually heavier duty.
OP: Be glad you don’t work for them anymore because it sounds like they have the wrong structure for deciding who is a good and bad employee.
[quote=”Bluesnut” post=128992]I’ve been through that “we’re going to keep your toolbox” routine with the ex-employer of mine who had the team pay plan. I lived 25 miles out in the sticks and found another job PDQ in another town. Went in one morning to load up my tools and halfway in remembered that I had left 2 uniforms at home. No big deal, me or my wife is in town all the time so I just figured one of us would drop them off the next time in as my wife’s mother lives just a mile away from the shop.
As I’m rolling my box out the service manager comes up to me smiling and asking how I’m doing. Fine, got another job starting Monday.
He then goes into the I can’t let you have your tools until you return those uniforms bit. This led to a heated argument because I told him I was not making a 50 mile round trip to do this and they would be returned in the next few days.
This guy (6’3″ and about 250 pounds) tried to step between me and my box. I just grabbed the handle and said that box is leaving right now because the box and everything in it is legally mine; bought and paid for by me and me only…Hard to figure some of those management clowns except to say that most are sub-morons.[/quote]
It really is hard to believe he did that because that is illegal. Especially considering the value of the uniforms vs. the tools. Stepping between you and the tool box added force. He could have been arrested if you had called the police. This field is so full of idiots. Some of the managers I’ve had in the past, their stupidity is beyond comprehension. I had a service manager who would try to arrange assults of employees he didn’t like. I had one who fired a young guy with asthma because he kept complaining about the guys smoking in the shop, then that guy filed with OSHA and that manager argued “smoker’s rights” to an OSHA official and got the shop fined $10,000 for allowing employees to smoke in the shop even though it is against the law. Then the OSHA rep did an audit of the whole shop, noting many violations. That shop did not recover and has closed.
They are notorious for steering shaft noise. The shaft between the steering colum and the rack. It will either be called the intermediate shaft or the mid shaft. I bet your local dealer has them in stock, it’s that common. (often it makes a slight popping noise as well)
Of course trim could be rubbing or the boot at the bottom could be rubbing, if those aren’t it, I bet it’s the shaft.
There will be a DTC set in I’m pretty sure the ABS module. Acura has a similar issue. I can’t remember which was which, but I had one that had this light, turned out to be a bad battery as well. Replaced the battery and it went away. Another one the steering wheel sensor was not calibrated. Another there was a totally different problem and once this was corrected the ESC light went off.
I’m a bit old fashion in some ways, and even if they say it doesn’t mean anything, physically going into someplace, find out who’s in charge, look them in the eye while shaking their hand and introduce yourself goes a long way.
The non-greeseable will last a long time, probably out last the car I am willing to bet. The 1.8 and 2.0 are the same suspension wise. I am biased towards Moog suspension parts, but doorman is good too. If your car has something different then go with doorman. I’ve never had issues with doorman suspension parts.
Excellent point. Get the “PITA” job done and over with so you can get onto the next job, so not only does it save you time and make your money faster but gets you the next job, making more.
Recently I had a u-joint replacement on a titan. One side went fine but due to the shape of the other side, a vice would not work, nor would the press. It pays 1.5 and well, I was 2hrs in and finally got the U-joint/ball joint tool and zipped right through it. Went from PITA to gravy.
Perhaps the topic should have been called “an engine that won’t get to operating temprature & P0125 DTC” and of course, won’t get very good heat. Thermostats can be tricky. I have seen them do a lot of weird things. The worse is when they stick sometimes. They will operate normally but occasionally stay closed and overheat the motor. I have seen them stay closed until operating temp, open, and not close again until the engine gets cold. Usually these type of symptoms are caused by an engine with other issues and overheated and the thermostat was not replaced. An overheated engine will boil the wax right out of the core, and it may still work, but not correctly. Rule of thumb is to replace them.
Anytime something cools, it’s saturation point drops, so any deposits will form around where the temprature of the coolant drops, such as a radiator or heater core. Some vehicles the location of the heater core and it’s position make it act almost like a filter for the cooling system. Case in point, Chevy Blazers and S10’s. Almost every time I have flushed out a heater core, I have gotten junk, even in relatively clean cooling systems. Honestly, if you aren’t getting good heat in your vehicle, pull the heater core lines and clean that out, I bet you there is junk in there.
Since we are discussing CAI’s, the further from the source of the vacuum (intake valve to the combustion chamber) the harder it is for the engine to pull the air in, so they do well on the butt dyno and really help response. Some vehicles more than others.
An engine is an air pump. The more air it can flow, as long as it can keep up with the fuel, the more power it can make. There are several aspects to make it flow. There is volume, which has to do with larger ports alowing more air to go in. There is the velosity of the air. Here is where a lot of people lose it with “bigger is better”. One thing that kills airflow is bottlenecks, so where air has to go from high volume to high flow, to high volume again, the air speed changes several times and energy is wasted and not as much air flows.
Check it for DTC’s, I am sure a 2005 with have codes in several systems. This will give you a starting point.
Is the Alternator getting the 12V reference?
Are you sure it’s a good alternator?
You drive a 92 third generation firebird and are wearing jeans with holes in them. Rock on dude!!! 😀
Check for vacuum leaks especially between the throttle body and cylinder head. Also check the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor and be sure it is operating properly. Some vehicles the engine temp sensor for the gauge on the dash and the one for the ECM is different.
I work for Nissan, and we do not practice this doing just ball joints thing. For one thing, if your ball joints are going out, I can bet you that the control arm bushings are not in good shape. No doubt the clicking and popping is probably coming from the bushings. Those control arms are not designed to be servicable and although you “can” it’s not right. Did you price out the control arms? If you had, you would have been done with this job a while ago with better results.
Can you weld, yes of course. How it will hold has to do with your welding skills.
I know it makes you cringe, but there is a science behind Customer Service. It’s not a fair science either.
I worked for The Home Depot. Our manager let someone “return” a craftsman lawnmower, for store credit. As you know, only Sears/Kmart sells Craftsman. I was like “WTH?” he basically just gave them a free lawnmower. He did this with a lot of Lowes merchandise as well. Now I know, he was buying a customer. They may have never come back to home depot again and pocketed the money, but statistically, they will come back and spend many times more than that over a period of time. I think the ratio was they will spend $9 for every $1 they give away/back. It’s also a balancing act, because if you do this too much, you create a toxic environment where they will expect this and be even more angry when they don’t get that special treatment.