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I want to say the ABS light went out and was reset by the onboard computer ,that is what it’s suppose to do ,I just had to drive it a block further. Case closed .
Cordiamad, You didn’t read my other post when I said I didn’t know how to post a picture. Of course I can take one . So I described the tool best I could , but If you need one you probabl could get one at your auto supply . They shouldn’t cost too much .It actually looks like a screwdriver with a pry bar tip. So I wish you the best .
I found the answer . There are a few kinds of push pin fasteners, the button kind,which I have , best way to remove them is with a tool for that resembles a pry bar that gets under the lip of the pin head and just pry’s out .. Then to reinstall it you simply push it back into the hole.
Thanks Peshewa,not sure how to post a picture but the fasteners on the front fenders are round buttons about a half inch in diameter .Im sure they pull off but will they push back on ? Thanks.
I had that with a trailer hub and I sprayed penetrating oil on the part where it was rusted on to the axle and let it sit for a good while and figured It had to come off even if I ruined it .I took a sledge hammer and hit it very hard top bottom and side to side .I did that a few tomes and it finally started to break loose. . Once it was off I took sand paper and sanded the rust off ,put a new tire on it with some grease on the contact point ares and it was ok. I would say giver a lil more whack with a sledge top and bottom .If you dont care about the hub I would get it red hot where its rusted on just one spot and as soon as its red hot hit it real hard a few times.
Two months ago I posted this question about D.A.. sanders, air vs. Electric. Some of you responded and I appreciate all the info you all have provided. From these responses I did purchase a DeWalt 443 random orbital sander. DeWalt always had a good name in tools so that’s why I went with this brand. I have used it for about a total of an hour. I purchased it brand new for $168.00 . I don’t have a lot of faith in cheap tools . I like this tool ,it works well ,and it does the job probably as good as my air D.A. that I don’t use lack of an air compressor. There is always pro’s and con’s right? Here are the con’s as I see it. This sander is a six inch hook & loop. The hook & loop are more expensive than the stick on disc’s. Also the fact that it is a 6 IN. not only makes the cost more but they are harder to find . This is what I don’t like . I did find a company on the web that I will sanding disc’s from and try them out. This sander had very good reviews by the way , and I never gave it any thought about the cost and availability of 6 IN. sand disc. So I am pointing this out to you ,if you are thinking about buying an electric D.A. sander I would try to find one that has a 5 inch pad for 5 inch stick on sand disc. That is more affordable. Also If you want to check out this company for sand disc’s and abrasive pads for stripping and such ,the company is Lehigh Valley Abrasives put that in the search engine. I hope this is helpful.
GREAAAAAAAT! Its great! You can please some of the people all the time ,but you can not please ALL of the people ALL of the time. Having said that no matter how cool you make it , some one will find fault.
Chevy man you have some striking credentials. You have convinced me to stay away from 305 (5.0) chevy .
Thanks chevyman21. Thats sort of what I am reading .That the 350 is even much better. I had a 67 GMC with a 350 and I loved that truck . Just say I wanted to pull one of those scamp 16 ft. travel trailers I bet that thing would labor up any grade . Maybe not so much with a stick tranny but this is something to think about . I probably wont look at it hahahahahah . I suppose it all boils down to what iy’s going to be used for. I’ll keep looking probably . A 350/400 would be cool.
I just talked to a master Mech. and he said to wait till the light stays on and it will be easier to pin it down. YES! On these things they call cars they, the factory have everything wrapped together and under different parts of the engine . I did what I could without doing a frame up restoration and could not find any lose or corroded wires,. Doesn’t mean there aren’t any but its time to let Bob the friendly neighborhood mechanic check it out with all his fancy meters when that dummy light decides to stay on . Someone may have a simular situation and they can read this to maybe come to the same conclusion ,go in the garage and cry with know one around..
I just performed the neg. post to alternator cover and getting a reading of .7. That tells me that there is a ground problem according to Eric’s video. He says no more than .1 or .2
It’s great Eric .Easy to use ,easy to sort thru and beam in on what a person is looking for. Good job.
It’s great Eric .Easy to use ,easy to sort thru and beam in on what a person is looking for. Good job.
While your on the subject of octane ,and gas , I’d like to ask you guy’s about gas treatment . Like gum out . Gumout Complete to be exact. I bought a bottle today, haven’t put it in yet . Now’s a fine time to think,”wonder if this stuff is really any good?” So I looked up a story a guy wrote on this stuff and soon after he put it in he started to have engine trouble. He ended up draining all that treated gas and replacing it. Also did a few other things and it ran fine again. He didn’t say what make ,model or year car he had. I have a 2010 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 . This guy says Gumout cleaned the engine so good his injectors got plugged . He said the crud it removes has to go somewhere. HUMMMMM . Maybe if your injectors are that bad that could happen . I’m wondering how mant miles he had on that engine . I have 36,000 on my Chrysler , it runs good .My theory is to throw a bottle in every 3 or 4 thousand miles to prevent build up that comes from the the crappy gas we have . What you guys think , or have heard.
While your on the subject of octane ,and gas , I’d like to ask you guy’s about gas treatment . Like gum out . Gumout Complete to be exact. I bought a bottle today, haven’t put it in yet . Now’s a fine time to think,”wonder if this stuff is really any good?” So I looked up a story a guy wrote on this stuff and soon after he put it in he started to have engine trouble. He ended up draining all that treated gas and replacing it. Also did a few other things and it ran fine again. He didn’t say what make ,model or year car he had. I have a 2010 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 . This guy says Gumout cleaned the engine so good his injectors got plugged . He said the crud it removes has to go somewhere. HUMMMMM . Maybe if your injectors are that bad that could happen . I’m wondering how mant miles he had on that engine . I have 36,000 on my Chrysler , it runs good .My theory is to throw a bottle in every 3 or 4 thousand miles to prevent build up that comes from the the crappy gas we have . What you guys think , or have heard.