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I highly recommend that you do a full timing service, which includes the water pump and other components. They actually sell kits with all of the necessary parts to do the job right: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1355633,parttype,5759
The reason is that it will save you time in the long run. You’re already spending a lot of time to do the timing belt, so you might as well do the water pump while you’re in there.
A/C Pro is just a can of r134a with a crappy pressure gauge. The chemical inside is fine. It’s just that to do an A/C job right you need to know what you’re doing. So, if you have a set of manifold gauges, a vacuum pump, some A/C oil, and a little bit of knowledge, then I would go for it. I would stay away from just attaching that thing and pressing the button.
Here are a couple of links that may help you (they are rear suspension diagrams for that vintage of Civic)
With rear disc brakes: http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/00/SNB6E00B44100000000DAAT01.html
With rear drum brakes: http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/00/SNB6E00B44100000000DAAT02.htmlGet the check engine code read. Some auto parts stores will scan the codes for you. You could also buy an inexpensive OBD2 reader and scan them yourself.
If you’re a DIYer like me, you probably don’t have a 240 Volt outlet in your garage. If that’s the case, then I highly recommend the Chicago Pneumatic RCP-226VP. You can check it out here: http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-RCP-226VP-Air-Compressor/p2041.html
It is dual voltage (120 or 240), and it has a pretty good CFM rating (7.10 at 90 psi). I own it and it’s by far my favorite tool.
I agree that your impact wrench should be of high quality. I’m a DIYer and I own an Ingersoll Rand 231C. It was worth every penny and has paid for itself many times over.
My tire inflator and blow gun are made by Milton, which is an awesome brand.
Now as for the rest of your air tools, I have a slightly different viewpoint than the rest of the responders. I own a Harbor Freight angle die grinder and a Harbor Freight cut-off tool and they both work well. I have a Tekton air hammer which has served me really well. Are they as good as IR, Snap-on, or Matco? Hell no. But, for my purposes, they are just fine. I wish I could afford the nice stuff, but I’m just a weekender. Just my two cents.
Hey guys,
To clarify, I switched tires from one set of wheels to another. So only the wheels are different. The tires are exactly the same. Still I’m noticing a difference in performance.
I did a bit of research and from 2012 and up CR-Vs came with hill assist. So, I’m assuming it’s just the hill assist doing it’s job. I’ve never driven a car with hill assist before, so it was very bizzare to me at first. Thanks for the info guys.
All the time. I can hear it from inside the car whenever I’m at idle or in park. The car runs fine and I don’t have any issues other than the noise.
The source of the leak is definitely the pump. I’m trying to figure out whether to replace the whole part or try to replace just the plastic inlet pipe. Part of the pump replacement procedure involves disconnecting the shift cable, which is something I’ve never done before. http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/00/SNB6E00F24500047031KBAT00.html – Step 7
How difficult is it to disconnect the shift cable? The rest of the steps I can follow easily.