Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Wrench Turner: I don’t think that is the same design as the control arm I’m working with. Here is a picture of the exact part:
The bushing is bolted vertically into the frame. The nut is actually above the frame, so you can’t see it or access it when the control arm is installed.
Here is a diagram of what I mean:
Do you see what I mean about the nut being hidden?
Wrench Turner: I don’t think that is the same design as the control arm I’m working with. Here is a picture of the exact part:
The bushing is bolted vertically into the frame. The nut is actually above the frame, so you can’t see it or access it when the control arm is installed.
Here is a diagram of what I mean:
Do you see what I mean about the nut being hidden?
I always change the front rotors at the same time as the pads. Modern rotors weren’t really designed for machining (at least that’s what a lot of professionals tell me). They have become cheap enough where most people just replace them.
I have personally experienced problems with replacing just the front pads. I did it once, and within a few days my steering wheel shook under braking. Essentially, the wear “pattern” of the old rotors doesn’t exactly match the perfectly flat surface of the new pads. I had to take everything back off and install new rotors anyway. That problem doesn’t always happen, but it is possible. Even the local mechanic told me that he sees that from time to time.
Here’s a quote from tirerack.com on this exact question:
“Installing new brake pads with used, unturned, or worn rotors can also cause warping due to the uneven overheating. Most used rotors will have irregular, grooved wear patterns on the surfaces. Mating this with the flat surface, a new brake pad will generate heat and friction only on the raised areas of the brake rotor causing those sections to heat faster than the recessed areas not touching the pads. Any brake pad transfer film from the previous set of pads can also affect the new pad’s ability to bed-in properly. The residue on the rotor can quickly lead to hot spots on the surface that can result in noise, vibration, dust, and warping problems.”I always change the front rotors at the same time as the pads. Modern rotors weren’t really designed for machining (at least that’s what a lot of professionals tell me). They have become cheap enough where most people just replace them.
I have personally experienced problems with replacing just the front pads. I did it once, and within a few days my steering wheel shook under braking. Essentially, the wear “pattern” of the old rotors doesn’t exactly match the perfectly flat surface of the new pads. I had to take everything back off and install new rotors anyway. That problem doesn’t always happen, but it is possible. Even the local mechanic told me that he sees that from time to time.
Here’s a quote from tirerack.com on this exact question:
“Installing new brake pads with used, unturned, or worn rotors can also cause warping due to the uneven overheating. Most used rotors will have irregular, grooved wear patterns on the surfaces. Mating this with the flat surface, a new brake pad will generate heat and friction only on the raised areas of the brake rotor causing those sections to heat faster than the recessed areas not touching the pads. Any brake pad transfer film from the previous set of pads can also affect the new pad’s ability to bed-in properly. The residue on the rotor can quickly lead to hot spots on the surface that can result in noise, vibration, dust, and warping problems.”I think I’m going to try it. The only thing that really worries me is the cage nut that 619Diofan was talking about. Basically, the nut that secures the control arm in the rear breaks loose from the frame and spins freely. I read about this problem on a lot of chevy forums. I feel like there’s a very good chance of this issue occurring. I also read that if it happens, you need to cut into the frame to access the nut. I don’t have the tools to cut into a frame. If this ends up happening when I attempt the job, what are my options? I don’t want to get stuck in the middle of the job with no way out.
Here’s a link to what 619diofan mentioned…
If anyone has any other advice about how I can avoid this problem, it would be greatly appreciated.
I think I’m going to try it. The only thing that really worries me is the cage nut that 619Diofan was talking about. Basically, the nut that secures the control arm in the rear breaks loose from the frame and spins freely. I read about this problem on a lot of chevy forums. I feel like there’s a very good chance of this issue occurring. I also read that if it happens, you need to cut into the frame to access the nut. I don’t have the tools to cut into a frame. If this ends up happening when I attempt the job, what are my options? I don’t want to get stuck in the middle of the job with no way out.
Here’s a link to what 619diofan mentioned…
If anyone has any other advice about how I can avoid this problem, it would be greatly appreciated.
Definitely could be caused by those reasons. I guess it depends on the exact specs your working with. I know personally that mine was just underpowered. But then again, I had a 3.8 cfm compressor and the impact needed 5.5. So the difference was more noticeable. His problem could definitely be caused by what you mentioned.
Definitely could be caused by those reasons. I guess it depends on the exact specs your working with. I know personally that mine was just underpowered. But then again, I had a 3.8 cfm compressor and the impact needed 5.5. So the difference was more noticeable. His problem could definitely be caused by what you mentioned.
I upgraded to this one BTW:
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-RCP-226VP-Air-Compressor/p2041.html
I upgraded to this one BTW:
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Chicago-Pneumatic-RCP-226VP-Air-Compressor/p2041.html
Look up the CFM rating for your compressor. Then look up the CFM required for your air tools. The compressor’s CFM rating is probably too low for the tools. I had the exact same issue. I returned the whole thing. CFM stands for Cubic Feet Per Minute. An impact wrench sucks a lot of air, so the PSI is useless unless the air can be replaced quick enough. PSI is only one way to measure the power of an air compressor. Go to this website to get some advice on how to buy one of these.
Look up the CFM rating for your compressor. Then look up the CFM required for your air tools. The compressor’s CFM rating is probably too low for the tools. I had the exact same issue. I returned the whole thing. CFM stands for Cubic Feet Per Minute. An impact wrench sucks a lot of air, so the PSI is useless unless the air can be replaced quick enough. PSI is only one way to measure the power of an air compressor. Go to this website to get some advice on how to buy one of these.
I sent the wrong link. I added some that might help you below. I also added a link to the 8th gen civic website that discusses the same issue. Again, good luck.
Links on brake lawsuit:
http://blogs.laweekly.com/informer/2011/02/honda_civic_brakes_lawsuit.php
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Civic/2006/brakes/brakes_wear_out_prematurely.shtmlLink on rear brakes locking:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/274511-honda-civic-rear-brake-jammed.html
