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[quote=”bhawkin2″ post=30964]Ok let me back up a little bit here.. I’ll try to get more in detail..
The Van was towed in about a month ago with a crank no start.. I scanned it an got an got no codes, i then checked fuel pressure an it was good around 50psi.. while cranking the engine and watching my data screen i noticed no rpm signal.. I checked the crank sensor,it was new. I found the wiring where it comes over the passenger exhaust manifold had fallen on the manifold.. an burnt the wiring to the crank sensor, repaired the harness. Van started right up, checked my connections all was good. Van left was towed in a couple days ago crank no start. checked all my prior wiring repairs all still good an tight an clean. So i Ohm checked the wires from the pcm to the crank sensor to verify there integrity, all checked good with a dvom an pp3. My problem is simply the 12volt refs was not being sent from the pcm to the crank sensor. When the 12 volt came back the van started right up an has not stalled for about 50 ignition cycles. I’m leaning towards a pcm.[/quote]
here you go college man!! :whistle: B)
normally with any lifted truck and adding bigger tires will make the tranny shift much softer because it is working harder to move them big tires plus the higher gear ratio you are going to get with bigger tires. its like hooking a trailer to a stock pickup but the load is always there! this will forever put extra stress on the tranny and will for sure wear it out much faster. this is why you build up trannys and add shift kits.
driveline angle will have nothing to do with how the tranny shifts. it will create vibrations and binding in the driveline but wont effect shifting in any way!!!
i use a flat piece of steel with a bolt threw one end to hold the pulley. then just a wrench on the nut. on the pulley there are them 4 holes like you see in the video posted above that is where the little bolt pokes into then it just hangs up agensed the nut. pretty simple home made tool. i used one of the garage door locks for the piece of flat steel haha. no need to hammer or bend stuff.
as shown in the wiring diagram the 12V ref wire does come from the PCM on pin #2. BUT there is a chance the providing side into the PCM of the 12 volts is being lost. before jumping to a new PCM i would atlest go threw finding other 12v refs and see if they are lost aswell at the same time. i do agree with Eric other then i think there maybe a chance the PCM is just loosing power to it. so i would also go threw and check all power input to the PCM before condeming the PCM. i would also run this issue by scannerdanner. he is VERY good with this type of issue’s! he may have a better way to test for it then any of us have come up with.
[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=31000][quote=”johnbkobb” post=30829]I don’t see why you couldn’t use the 10W-30 weight oil especially in warmer weather. I run that weight in all my vehicles. In fact this summer I changed to Castrol 10W-40 for 2 months during the heatwave but have moved back to the 10W-30 for the fall and will go to 5W-30 in the winter.[/quote]
Pretty much what i do through the year with my car too, only in winter i run 0W30… it gets down below -35C(-31F) in the winter and +30C(+95F) in the summer.[/quote]i my self run 10-30 in my cars and 15-40 in my trucks year around. i do it this way because if i start a vehicle in the morning it normally runs most the day never really getting a cool down. so in the end i get a little more wear at start up but much less the rest of the day when the oil gets hot and thin. plus i use good oil! not cheap stuff. mostly the trucks because they are working when they run. many times i use a oil heater on the trucks to during the winter so the oil is already at 100F at start up. most on this forum go by the oil cap or owners manual so i just go along with it. i must not be hurting the engines this way because most of them live 250-300,000 miles before i get rid of them. infact my main work truck is just at 300,000 miles and don’t show any signs of that kinda milage. the last truck run 537,000 miles before i sold it and still see it running around now and then pulling a car trailer. banana:
[quote=”dannyg40″ post=30965]
I have been wanting to change the plugs anyway. Maybe this weekend I will pull the 3 easy front ones and check them real quick. The back ones, the upper intake has to come off to get to them.[/quote]
yea let us know what you find. it has to be burning it or leaking it. some times engine wont smoke when burning oil such as the dodges with the magnum engines will not smoke sucking oil threw the intake. you mite check the radiator for oil and the tranny for gaining oil aswell.
[quote=”bhawkin2″ post=30964]Ok let me back up a little bit here.. I’ll try to get more in detail..
The Van was towed in about a month ago with a crank no start.. I scanned it an got an got no codes, i then checked fuel pressure an it was good around 50psi.. while cranking the engine and watching my data screen i noticed no rpm signal.. I checked the crank sensor,it was new. I found the wiring where it comes over the passenger exhaust manifold had fallen on the manifold.. an burnt the wiring to the crank sensor, repaired the harness. Van started right up, checked my connections all was good. Van left was towed in a couple days ago crank no start. checked all my prior wiring repairs all still good an tight an clean. So i Ohm checked the wires from the pcm to the crank sensor to verify there integrity, all checked good with a dvom an pp3. My problem is simply the 12volt refs was not being sent from the pcm to the crank sensor. When the 12 volt came back the van started right up an has not stalled for about 50 ignition cycles. I’m leaning towards a pcm.[/quote]
that kinda makes me think when the wire shorted it may have hurt something inside the PCM. did any fuse’s burn when that happen?
look it up in the owners manual. normally there is a weight VS temp chart in them. but i don’t think thicker oil will fix your problem of oil usage. i would start pulling spark plugs and look for signs of oil first.
being the vehicle it is i would first start with checking out the PCM it self first. they seem to have a issue with water getting into them. check out towards the end of scanner danners video here > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCyPkbli6zs&feature=plcp
[quote]Quoted From EricTheCarGuy: _x000D_
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Actually I know for a fact that many Asian makes use ceramicQuoted From DieselMan:_x000D_
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cool avatar moparfan_x000D_
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🙂 thanks! just google search it and you will find it to have one of your own!_x000D_
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FYI i use two 1200 CCA in my cummins. so 2400 CCA total. it is over kill for the truck but for jump sto add to dreamers post. CCA is cold cranking amps. manufacturs use different temps for there CCA rating. you can find one battery like this http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal … 0345854477 it states CCA is 500 but under detai
