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Hahaha!! Man o man I love this forum already! Eric, I’m a total newbie to this forum n I must say it’s the most interesting one I’ve subscribed to thus far! To Mr. DaveNewbie, you’re a funny dude! Stick around! And save up your criticism for Eric because I’m somewhat of a wimp when it comes to giving criticism, so…….we need ya! And also to Eric, I’ve never been involved in a more welcoming and personable forum such as this. Heck, even RamforumZ kinda leaves ya hanging, though they’re really welcoming as well! You put a lot of effort into this forum and you DO keep it alive! We love ya man! Can’t thank you enough!
Oh n say…….I noticed you had prior experience with a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7. That’s real good…..cause I drive one! Let us know if ya get any other MOPARS comin’ your way. I’ll be the first to ask questions!
-Steve
Oh I see. So basically use a metal guide wrapped around the pipe, so that when the flimsy blade wants to divert, the guide will keep it from doing so, and basically just cut against the guide. That sounds pretty clever actually! Every time I’ve used the tool I’ve just been free-handing the cut and used a super firm grip with my hands to get it straight. Never works though haha! Thanks for those ideas guys! I will certainly try that next time!
Oh I see. So basically use a metal guide wrapped around the pipe, so that when the flimsy blade wants to divert, the guide will keep it from doing so, and basically just cut against the guide. That sounds pretty clever actually! Every time I’ve used the tool I’ve just been free-handing the cut and used a super firm grip with my hands to get it straight. Never works though haha! Thanks for those ideas guys! I will certainly try that next time!
Boy oh boy, do I love me some philosophy! Some people absolutely make me laugh when it comes to diagnostics. It is indeed an art, but really it’s just a skill that comes along with knowledge and experience. I myself do not have a lot of experience (I have some), but I do on occasion attempt to make a diagnosis on something I have absolutely no knowledge about (like some system on a particular make or something). When I do this, I’m basically applying fundamental knowledge along with common sense, if it’s something I don’t have experience with or even really have any knowledge about. The coolest thing about this however is if you end up being correct in your diagnosis regardless of the lack of knowledge/experience of the particular problem with a particular make, just by applying the fundamental basics and some sense. I’d like to think this alone would give you a great head start in good diagnostics and usually allow you to be correct more often than not. Correct me if I’m wrong.
-Steve
Boy oh boy, do I love me some philosophy! Some people absolutely make me laugh when it comes to diagnostics. It is indeed an art, but really it’s just a skill that comes along with knowledge and experience. I myself do not have a lot of experience (I have some), but I do on occasion attempt to make a diagnosis on something I have absolutely no knowledge about (like some system on a particular make or something). When I do this, I’m basically applying fundamental knowledge along with common sense, if it’s something I don’t have experience with or even really have any knowledge about. The coolest thing about this however is if you end up being correct in your diagnosis regardless of the lack of knowledge/experience of the particular problem with a particular make, just by applying the fundamental basics and some sense. I’d like to think this alone would give you a great head start in good diagnostics and usually allow you to be correct more often than not. Correct me if I’m wrong.
-Steve
I do understand what you mean about the factory rockers. However there is one thing you must remember, the entire valve train is hydraulically driven (which thus could be the Mercedes engineering that you speak of), such as lifters, chain tension, etc. I’ve found solid lash adjusting lifters, and stronger springs for this engine, in which when installed them rockers are going NOWHERE! And also this engine is overhead cam, so no push rods to worry about. I do believe the factory rockers are ratio, but don’t know the specs. I do believe also they’re rolling as well, haven’t looked into it much yet. But still you gatta have faith in this little torque monster! Take care of it, n it will take care of you! I have over 103k on my ’02 (which isn’t bad I guess). Mother bought it brand new back in ’02 and I received it at around 65k, and let me tell you I’ve driven the living hell out of this truck. Plenty of jack rabbits and redlining (wait…what redline? ;D), and very few repairs, in fact only two since I’ve had the truck. They both had to do with the cooling system. That’s it though, never any problems or failures with this engine, and certainly never had a rocker fall off on me haha! Factory head gaskets are still strong as the day my mom bought the thing (and she has a heavier foot than I do!). Idk, it’s been a VERY good truck to all of us, despite how we drive the thing. The only thing is I could use a little more power than 235hp lol!
Getting back on point, the cam makers told me they would need the cores of those cams in order to do anything with them, that’s the sucky part. The thing is, I know Comp has made cams for the 4.7 before because I mean, just go on youtube! I just hope I’m not too late in the game as far as finding someone who can still make them, cause I ain’t switching to a hemi anytime soon, don’t aim to either.
I do understand what you mean about the factory rockers. However there is one thing you must remember, the entire valve train is hydraulically driven (which thus could be the Mercedes engineering that you speak of), such as lifters, chain tension, etc. I’ve found solid lash adjusting lifters, and stronger springs for this engine, in which when installed them rockers are going NOWHERE! And also this engine is overhead cam, so no push rods to worry about. I do believe the factory rockers are ratio, but don’t know the specs. I do believe also they’re rolling as well, haven’t looked into it much yet. But still you gatta have faith in this little torque monster! Take care of it, n it will take care of you! I have over 103k on my ’02 (which isn’t bad I guess). Mother bought it brand new back in ’02 and I received it at around 65k, and let me tell you I’ve driven the living hell out of this truck. Plenty of jack rabbits and redlining (wait…what redline? ;D), and very few repairs, in fact only two since I’ve had the truck. They both had to do with the cooling system. That’s it though, never any problems or failures with this engine, and certainly never had a rocker fall off on me haha! Factory head gaskets are still strong as the day my mom bought the thing (and she has a heavier foot than I do!). Idk, it’s been a VERY good truck to all of us, despite how we drive the thing. The only thing is I could use a little more power than 235hp lol!
Getting back on point, the cam makers told me they would need the cores of those cams in order to do anything with them, that’s the sucky part. The thing is, I know Comp has made cams for the 4.7 before because I mean, just go on youtube! I just hope I’m not too late in the game as far as finding someone who can still make them, cause I ain’t switching to a hemi anytime soon, don’t aim to either.
I will have to look for that video to see how you use that tool! And that’s okay, my suggestion was really more of a request, no worries. Much appreciated as always!
-Steve
I will have to look for that video to see how you use that tool! And that’s okay, my suggestion was really more of a request, no worries. Much appreciated as always!
-Steve
Eric, I believe you’re one of the MOST articulate technicians I’ve ever seen. While I can agree with DaveNewbie once in a blue moon, I’d say keep your videos unscripted. Because as you say, starting mechanical work on each video is going to be spontaneous. If everything worked out exactly the way I’d expect each video to be, then I’d take you for a fake! LOL! You going about your videos the way you do, keeps everything real and practical. I’m glad to have read your long reply to DaveNewbie because it will demonstrate to anyone the reality of making videos doing technician work, if I’m correct.
Thank you especially for all you do here in the forum!
-Steve
Eric, I believe you’re one of the MOST articulate technicians I’ve ever seen. While I can agree with DaveNewbie once in a blue moon, I’d say keep your videos unscripted. Because as you say, starting mechanical work on each video is going to be spontaneous. If everything worked out exactly the way I’d expect each video to be, then I’d take you for a fake! LOL! You going about your videos the way you do, keeps everything real and practical. I’m glad to have read your long reply to DaveNewbie because it will demonstrate to anyone the reality of making videos doing technician work, if I’m correct.
Thank you especially for all you do here in the forum!
-Steve
@ barneyb
I noticed I said monkey wrench in my last post. I really meant to say pipe wrench (or plummer’s wrench) LOL!
And what is the purpose for removing the fill plug first again??@ Everyone else
I solved that second issue with removing the fill plug….after driving around for a couple hours visiting multiple hardware stores. I discovered these special extracting sockets made by Erwin (set of 5, comes in a blue container). They look like they work pretty well! However, the set doesn’t have the size socket I needed. They were all too small. Right next to this set, was a big chrome socket with a bunch of spring-loaded pins inside, called Gator Grip! I bought it. Seemed really cool! Guess what, didn’t work. Luckily, with my morale down the toilet, my mind ceased to give up! I finally resorted to filing two sides of the bolt flat with my metal files (so the bolt sorta looks like a square) and again tried the vice-grip method. Much more positive grip on the bolt this time. I inserted a small metal pipe in the handle of the vice grip as a cheater bar. BAM!!! Finally broke that sucker loose! It’ll need to be replaced, but I got it off! I Took care of the gearbox issue, and the oil issue.
So basically, I’m finally done with the car. We test drove it last night and it runs fine! One other annoying problem however. I forgot what causes this, but what is that annoying loud high-pitch belt squeak I hear when I take off in first, and when I’m turning? the noise stops when I take it out of gear and coast in neutral. Note that the timing belt is brand new, as well as the accessory belts. Would that loud squeak be the result of the accessory belts being too tight?
Here’s some pics of the car, even though I solved the two issues I was initially stuck with. There is one final question I had about a little baggie of these “things” that I do not recognize whatsoever. The last image will depict what I’m talking about.Perhaps one of you would be able to answer my question! =]
2002 Kia Spectra 1.8L DOHC
You can see where the cam seals were supposed to go. I feel like an idiot for not noticing.
What in the heck are these things? They look like seals of some sort.
@ barneyb
I noticed I said monkey wrench in my last post. I really meant to say pipe wrench (or plummer’s wrench) LOL!
And what is the purpose for removing the fill plug first again??@ Everyone else
I solved that second issue with removing the fill plug….after driving around for a couple hours visiting multiple hardware stores. I discovered these special extracting sockets made by Erwin (set of 5, comes in a blue container). They look like they work pretty well! However, the set doesn’t have the size socket I needed. They were all too small. Right next to this set, was a big chrome socket with a bunch of spring-loaded pins inside, called Gator Grip! I bought it. Seemed really cool! Guess what, didn’t work. Luckily, with my morale down the toilet, my mind ceased to give up! I finally resorted to filing two sides of the bolt flat with my metal files (so the bolt sorta looks like a square) and again tried the vice-grip method. Much more positive grip on the bolt this time. I inserted a small metal pipe in the handle of the vice grip as a cheater bar. BAM!!! Finally broke that sucker loose! It’ll need to be replaced, but I got it off! I Took care of the gearbox issue, and the oil issue.
So basically, I’m finally done with the car. We test drove it last night and it runs fine! One other annoying problem however. I forgot what causes this, but what is that annoying loud high-pitch belt squeak I hear when I take off in first, and when I’m turning? the noise stops when I take it out of gear and coast in neutral. Note that the timing belt is brand new, as well as the accessory belts. Would that loud squeak be the result of the accessory belts being too tight?
Here’s some pics of the car, even though I solved the two issues I was initially stuck with. There is one final question I had about a little baggie of these “things” that I do not recognize whatsoever. The last image will depict what I’m talking about.Perhaps one of you would be able to answer my question! =]
2002 Kia Spectra 1.8L DOHC
You can see where the cam seals were supposed to go. I feel like an idiot for not noticing.
What in the heck are these things? They look like seals of some sort.
Alright everyone I have an update. For the oil leak problem we had, problem solved. And the winner goes to bee24! I asked my buddy if he installed the cam seals before I bolted the timing sprockets back on……..and he said no (surprised I didn’t notice myself before bolting on the sprockets).
That problem being solved however…….we have another problem. We went to drain the oil so we could put in the correct type. With the oil level reading about “Full” on the dipstick, only about half a quart drained from the drain plug. I read the dipstick again, and the level was about a quarter below full. What the heck? I didn’t feel any gunk or sludge build-up just inside the drain plug area, and I really wasn’t in the mood to drop the pan. Well from what I saw anyway, there really wasn’t any kind of “pan” to speak of where this drain plug was….and that’s when we discovered we accidentally drained the gearbox, even though from an image in the manual, it depicts the drain plug to be on the driver’s side underneath. Wrong, the pan was actually on the passenger side and I found the another drain plug on that one. Bingo! Oil poured out like a garden hose. Solved that issue.
Now, we’re regretting accidentally draining the gearbox, because the even bigger problem we have……is unscrewing the fill plug. The plug is a large (about 1 inch across) bolt head about 23-24 mm if I were to guess. WON’T BUDGE! Stripped the head using the sockets so we tried a big monkey wrench, as well as a large crescent wrench. Neither worked. Finally, we had to clamp vice-grips extremely tight on the head and banged on it with a hammer. Nothing. Don’t have an impact, and now the bolt head is almost completely rounded. This is by far the most stubborn fastener I’ve ever dealt with, and now practically no tool can be used to get it off.
I need this drain plug to come off by tomorrow since I’m finishing up the car. How may I get this drain plug off so I can fill the gearbox back up with oil? I would really appreciate some help with this new issue! Thanks guys!
Alright everyone I have an update. For the oil leak problem we had, problem solved. And the winner goes to bee24! I asked my buddy if he installed the cam seals before I bolted the timing sprockets back on……..and he said no (surprised I didn’t notice myself before bolting on the sprockets).
That problem being solved however…….we have another problem. We went to drain the oil so we could put in the correct type. With the oil level reading about “Full” on the dipstick, only about half a quart drained from the drain plug. I read the dipstick again, and the level was about a quarter below full. What the heck? I didn’t feel any gunk or sludge build-up just inside the drain plug area, and I really wasn’t in the mood to drop the pan. Well from what I saw anyway, there really wasn’t any kind of “pan” to speak of where this drain plug was….and that’s when we discovered we accidentally drained the gearbox, even though from an image in the manual, it depicts the drain plug to be on the driver’s side underneath. Wrong, the pan was actually on the passenger side and I found the another drain plug on that one. Bingo! Oil poured out like a garden hose. Solved that issue.
Now, we’re regretting accidentally draining the gearbox, because the even bigger problem we have……is unscrewing the fill plug. The plug is a large (about 1 inch across) bolt head about 23-24 mm if I were to guess. WON’T BUDGE! Stripped the head using the sockets so we tried a big monkey wrench, as well as a large crescent wrench. Neither worked. Finally, we had to clamp vice-grips extremely tight on the head and banged on it with a hammer. Nothing. Don’t have an impact, and now the bolt head is almost completely rounded. This is by far the most stubborn fastener I’ve ever dealt with, and now practically no tool can be used to get it off.
I need this drain plug to come off by tomorrow since I’m finishing up the car. How may I get this drain plug off so I can fill the gearbox back up with oil? I would really appreciate some help with this new issue! Thanks guys!
