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[Darrell]

Realized there was a salvage yard 10 minutes from my office so got a “new” alternator on way home. Before swapping out I reconnected multimeter. Bumped throttle and voltage did go up past 14 but then I turn on all the electrical stuff I could. Voltage dropped down to 11.5 and stayed there even with me holding throttle. Swapped out alternator and now at idle with full electrical load voltage holds steady at 13.5+ . All is well. (For as long as the junk yard alternator lasts. Ha!)

[Darrell]

Thanks for the positive feedback! I’m glad I moved on too. Kinda fixated on getting a 4Runner. I know limiting yourself to one make/model is never a way to find deal, but I don’t “need” a different vehicle right now either so I can be picky I guess. 🙂

[Darrell]

Thank you very much ToyotaKarl! I don’t think it is the belt. The belt is new and is correct belt. It was tensioned properly.

That said, I now have a completely different problem with the pump. ONE I CREATED MYSELF

Long story short. I managed to bend the pivot bolt for the pump. The pivot bolt seems to be captive? is it even possible to change it out since I have wrecked it?

Could installing pump with bent pivot bolt cause pump to fail? Because I just did, and I think it did. Threaded part is straight, last 1.5 inches of bolt is bent at about 15 degree angle. I may be posting the dumbest thing anyone has posted on this board right now so read on! Sorry it is long, but hopefully has some entertainment value. Maybe I’ll even get Eric’s attention on this one. 🙂

Here are the details of how I did this inane thing, and it is pretty ridiculous. I am so mad at myself! One of those things that makes me think “Man, maybe you just shouldn’t work on your own cars anymore. ”

Convinced this pump is garbage (as you seem to agree with) I got myself all in a rush to pull it back off and try my luck with exchanging it for a different one at autozone under warranty. (I wish I had not turned in the core right away or I would rebuild as you suggest above.)

While loosening the pivot bolt with 1/4 ratchet and deep well socket I just was not paying attention to what I was doing.
I backed out the bolt too far and wedged the ratchet between wheel well and pump bracket while socket was still on the bolt.
It was STUCK.
I could not get the ratchet reversed in the other direction to drive the bolt back in so I could get the socket off and switch to wrench.
In hindsight I should have clamped on vise grips to the socket and worked the bolt back in. But I did not do that. Instead I banged on the ratchet with hammer and pry bar because it was a cheap 1/4 ratchet and I figured it would just break. It did not break. Instead I bent the pivot bolt.

After some doing I managed to get a thread started and re-installed the same crappy pump as I was out of time and gave up on idea exchanging the pump today. Got the belt tensioned on bottom and then was able to drive the bent pivot bolt the rest of the way back home with a gear wrench that I should have used in the first place but forgot I had. (Keep in mind the threaded portion of the bolt is not bent.) I still can’t believe I did this after successfully changing the pump AND RACK just two day ago. This is FAR from my first repair. Also, at 41 years old I’m not some dumb kid. (I guess I’m some dumb adult.)

NOW: Despite all of the above everything seemed to still work
BUT:
20 miles after doing the above something massively broke and all the fluid ran out in very short order. Just a few hundred feet. Luckily this was in a subdivision and I could just park the car. I will have towed tomorrow. I suppose I should shallow my pride and have it towed to my father-in-laws shop instead of home,but probably won’t.

I will know more tomorrow in the daylight but I am fearful that my bent pivot bolt torqued the pump in an odd way putting it at an angle that caused the belt to be out of alignment thus causing the pump to fail. is that even possible? Even though I think this “re-manufactured” was very suspect it seems highly unlikely that I did not cause this? It could be a hose I guess. but I know I got those back on correctly. If not I think this would been obvious right away.
Also mind you, I did not bang on the pump, only the ratchet wedged between the bolt and wheel well.

While re-installing the pump I did notice that the pulley shaft did move in and out some. maybe 1/16th of inch. This did not seem right to me.

Anyway, am I totally screwed now? I don’t care about the $ for another pump, I care bout being able to install any pump correctly ever again.

[Darrell]

Ya, I hear ya! Next time I might try rebuilding the OEM pump. Wish I had kept the core for $36.

Kicker is I’m not 100% certain it was leaking but I’m pretty (90%) sure it was. Figured it was best to replace everything while putting all the effort into the rack. It has gotten a little quieter, hopefully will continue to.

[Darrell]

Thanks for all the input gents.
I think I will go with A/C Delco and hope for a good luck of the draw!

[Darrell]

Thanks for the input all. Think I’m gonna get this kit.

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=391337355082&category=33625&pm=1&ds=0&t=1475198622896

[Darrell]

Yes, I hear you and won’t do it again. That said engine was off and can was upright so only gas could enter not liquid. It was suggested by others on a Dakota board as way to get compressor to kick in but as it turns out the issue was just the electric plug right at the compressor. If ever in same situation again I will check around with multimeter first.

At any rate, system is cooling great now I have about 35-40 lbs on low side and 225-250 on high. Air out of vents is nice and cold.

[Darrell]

Solved.

I feel kinda dumb here but discovered that the plug going to compressor was the issue. It looked like it was plugged in but was not really connected. Once I fixed that, compressor kicked in and system charged right up just like in Eric’s video.

Thanks for all the replies!

[Darrell]

Thanks Rob!

Ya, I’ve review both Eric’s and Chrisfix videos many (many) times.

My question was really about how the gauge it self works. Now that is cleared up for me and I cofirm the gauge set works by hooking it to a car with properly functioning AC.

Now I am faced with fact that compressor is not kicking in. This is 02 dodge Dakota 3.9 that has high presssure sending unit near hp port and not simple pressure switch that can be jumped on compressor itself.

In short I pulled and help a vacuum, (-27)
With engine OFF I dumped 1/2 12oz can has into high side per recommendations found for dodge on other sites. Apparently this system with sending unit must see min amount pressure on high side before it will engage compressor.

Then closed highside.

Started engine turned on AC. Condenser fan fires right up like it should, fuse is good.

Opened up low side. Low side sucks in 12 oz can but will take no more be alien compressor is not kicking on.

Gauge reads 80 low and 50 high.

Oh ya, I did add oil too.

This 134a was cheap ish but want to try and avoid vacuuming again if I can avoid it.
Or maybe I will admit defeat and take to shop.

Last summer everything worked. Before all this I confirmed low side Schrader valve was leaking and replaced it. So I don’t think any other components have issues but who knows.

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[Darrell]

Thanks again DaFrinz,

I think I have confirmed you suspition of the steering coupler. After it dried out from the rain the rotational binding (stiff then loose and back again while turning the wheel) came back.

I liberally sprayed the top and bottom u-joints in the coupler with silicon spray and steering went back to normal. It’s been a couple days and the silicon is still working. So maybe I will keep spraying every once and awhile until it gets really obvious failure could occur at any moment?

[Darrell]

Thanks Jinzo and Shaun.

It this is an 02′ Dakota with full frame.

Probably gonna tackle this in next couple weeks. Will let everyone know how it goes.

[Darrell]

Thanks DF I will look into that as well. Above did you mean disconnect one end or the other of the steering shaft to check the u joints?

Searching around more seems like both ball joints and steering shaft have caused this sort of problem for people with steering shaft joint definitely being common failure in Dakota and Durango

[Darrell]

thanks Shaun! this truck has eaten ball joints all its life and still has original tie rods so I bet you are right.
only 135K on and I think 4th set of ball joints on there right now. this time I’m gonna do it myself with grease-able moog or similar.
uppers failed for first time with only 40K while still under factory warranty.

[Author]

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