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Well, you can buy a second hand car and repair the used part on It to make you working. But before that, you must have tools and thousand dollars (3000 $) to replace all you might needs. Suspension, AC compressor (if necessary, buying new tools, buying oil, spray paints, glove, OBDII code reader, and more. Anyway, more the car have problems when you buy It, more time and money you will sped on It. The trick, It’s to buy a car that is popular for many years in your country and in USA that is over 12 years. Above 12 years, the insurance and people see a worthless car. So, the replacement part are going to be really cheap because all website and people are going to give away these parts to fill up with parts that came from this year model.
You have 4 years after the 12 years car classless to buy nearly all the part for cheap. After that, the part are going to be rare and expensive.Not only the timing belt is a pain to change. To reach part in the hood, you don’t have a lot of space despite the engine is smaller.
Not only the timing belt is a pain to change. To reach part in the hood, you don’t have a lot of space despite the engine is smaller.
On the Toyota yaris 2006 and 2007 the manufacturer have found that have an electrical hire in the base of the sterling wheel that come loose and need to be replace due to the turn and turn. You might have a loose sensor on your car. Finally, you might have a vibration near a air bag sensor that light up the SRS icon.
You need a SRS car code reader to find you. But this king of scanner is 400 us$ and more. You might need to go in a garage.On the Toyota yaris 2006 and 2007 the manufacturer have found that have an electrical hire in the base of the sterling wheel that come loose and need to be replace due to the turn and turn. You might have a loose sensor on your car. Finally, you might have a vibration near a air bag sensor that light up the SRS icon.
You need a SRS car code reader to find you. But this king of scanner is 400 us$ and more. You might need to go in a garage.I did not found free picture. But, you can buy the repair factory manual to know where is It. I assume, the mass air flow is close to the intake manifold behind the exhaust manifold.
I did not found free picture. But, you can buy the repair factory manual to know where is It. I assume, the mass air flow is close to the intake manifold behind the exhaust manifold.
If you suspect air trap in the coolant, you can use the spill free funnel to do a bleed test as Eric shown in a video. For the 100 rpm fluctuation, It’s could be anything. Heater switch to the o2 sensor.
If you suspect air trap in the coolant, you can use the spill free funnel to do a bleed test as Eric shown in a video. For the 100 rpm fluctuation, It’s could be anything. Heater switch to the o2 sensor.
I don’t know why the steal strap is still attach to the differential when this strap is holding the rubber boot in the axle. Anyway, axle rubber boot use quicker then the axle bearing. So you might buy tool for that. Torch the differential to pull this steal strap is a bad Idea. It’s better to use a plasma cutter then a torch don’t forget to pull the negative wire on the battery to avoid electrical damage.
I don’t know why the steal strap is still attach to the differential when this strap is holding the rubber boot in the axle. Anyway, axle rubber boot use quicker then the axle bearing. So you might buy tool for that. Torch the differential to pull this steal strap is a bad Idea. It’s better to use a plasma cutter then a torch don’t forget to pull the negative wire on the battery to avoid electrical damage.