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Chris Fix has an excellent video about this on YouTube, I’ll see if I can find a link to it.
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[quote=”451Mopar” post=182865]If the engine has started pinging on regular then mid-grade (higher octane) may help.
Although the engine can see some carbon build up that may slightly increase compression, usually the pinging in high mileage comes from burning oil.
If the engine is not pinging, then you should not need a higher octane fuel, but you may want to add a can of fuel system cleaner.
Some gas stations advertise that their higher octane fuels have more fuel system cleaning additives that their regular fuel, but I have not seen an independent verification of this?[/quote]
If you have a lot of carbon buildup, that can cause pinging to, but not from compression raising. It usually causes hot spots that pre-ignite the mixture. It’d be a good idea in my mind, if you have pinging, to increase the octane of your fuel as well as decarburizing the engine, since the pinging can wreak havoc if not fixed.I also wanted to add, to my original post, was the story that I was told when I bought the truck. Apparently, the vehicle was originally military, stationed somewhere in or near Guam. The captain who drove it liked it so much, when he was discharged, he had the vehicle dismantled and shipped to the US. It was apparently rebuilt by a dealer, and eventually the captain sold it back to them, and it eventually trickled down to the guy I bought it from, and then to me. Though I don’t have any way to know if it’s true or not, it’s a pretty cool story.
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So, I was poking around in my engine bay yesterday, with a vacuum gauge I bought in preparation for a carb rebuild I had planned, when I discovered that my vacuum advance was shot. Probably explains the dead spot in the rev range when trying to accelerate out of corners. I now sense a distributer and ignition system cleanup if not a full overhaul, with the carb plans being shelved for now.
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[quote=”Evil-i” post=181605]Nice barn find. Love those vintage Land Rovers.
While I’m sure you’re aware, I’ll mention it anyway. The bodies were aluminum, while the frames were steel. This combination of dissimilar metals acted something like a galvanic cell, and made these old warriors extremely prone to corrosion. If you haven’t already done so, it’d be worth your time to do a detailed examination of the underside to identify any problem areas that might be lurking out of sight, including dodgey previous repairs.[/quote]
Yeah, I’m well acquainted with my Landy’s bottom side, and I’m planning on replacing the frame in a couple of years. Luckily, the galvanic corrosion seems to be at a minimum for the most part.Hey Eric, how are you doing? I’ve got 1 question and one AMA.
I’ve only been driving my 61 LR for a little while, but I suspect it might be guzzling fuel pretty bad. Any tips for finding efficiency problems in old carbureted engines? I am certain vacuum leaks are not the issue, but I think my engine may be heavily carburized. Exhaust leaks? My understanding is that they can mess with the fuel ratio, and my muffler did look like Swiss cheese until it fell off the other day…. Anyways, any thoughts will be appreciated!AMA. I want to get started making YouTube videos, and I was wondering if you had any tips or guidelines on how you film or edit your videos. I’ve already shot quit a bit of footage while doing stuff on the Land Rover, and produce a couple on YouTube, but you’ve been doing it a lot longer than I have and was wondering if you had any wisdom to pass on.
That might actually make a good ETCG1 video; behind the scenes of how ETCG is produced, and how you built the ETCG Empire in the first place.Anyways, thanks for all the help!
PS, here’s another name for you to try, 🙂 Kaliszewski
Hey Eric, I’m back with the 61 Land Rover.
Since last time I asked too many questions, Ill try to keep it short this time. My tire problem ended up being solved, I took the tire to 3 different shops, and it wasn’t until the 3rd that someone actually told me that they could fit a different sized tire to that rim and It would be fine (the other shops just looked at my tire and said “nope, we don’t have any that size”). I’m going to be getting LT235/85r16 s, and will probably be Yokohama Geolander A/T, though I would love to have Maxxis Buckshot.
I have also been told that the noise in my transmission may be the phosphor bronze spigot bushing centering the driven plate in the flywheel.My main question is about a Ford alternator, it’s from a 2003 Ford Taurus my friend was scrapping. I want to install it in my Land Rover as part of an auxiliary power circuit to power stuff like a radio, phone chargers etc. However, The unit is PCM controlled, with I believe 3 wires plugged into the voltage regulator. Is the control signal from the PCM to the alternator PWM, analog, digital, or what?
Also, the horn button on the steering wheel, as far as I can tell is supposed to ground the wire from the horn to the steering coulomb, but as far as I can tell, the Wheel (where the button grounds too) and the steering shaft to which it is splined are electrically isolated from the column, which is well grounded. the steering box is also grounded well. Neither the service nor the Haynes manuals are of any help.AMA: I want to get into making YouTube videos, and I’ve already filmed several things while making repairs on the LR, Do you have any tips or philosophies when editing, or making videos in general?
I appreciate all the work and videos you have put out, They definitely help me understand the different systems of a car, and has helped me bunches with both the Landy and my parent’s cars.
Thanks as always
-Ryan Schweter
P.S. you have some of the most creative attempts at pronouncing my last name, most people just end up saying something like sweater. I’ll spell it phonetically for you one of these days, but for now I’ll just enjoy the comedy. 😛
How many raging stallions does Oliver have again? I was telling someone about him and couldn’t find it.
Hey Eric! this is my first time using a forum, so I hope I’m doing it right. I love the show, and am really enjoying the Fairmont project, and am looking forward to When you build the Mustang. I’ve got a 1961 series 2 Land Rover, and a few questions. The spare tire I have is definitely tube type (as it is on a bolt type split rim) , but I don’t know if the tires on the vehicle are or not. All the tires are around 20 or so years old, and use the old rim size based size system. The tires are all stamped 7.50 – 16 c, which is the wheel dimension and load rating, but the overall diameter is not printed. The wheels on the vehicle all have 30″ tires, however the spare is a 32″ which is what the vehicle was designed for. The problem I’m running into is trying to figure out what the tire size is in the modern notation; I’ve called Land Rover, and they have no information going back that far, and I stumped a Goodyear representative who I spoke to. Also the few conversion charts I’ve been able to find online don’t go up to tires as big as mine. Do you have any information on how to convert the sizing systems?
My friend had a 2003 ford taurus which he was sending to the junk yard, so i pulled a myriad of parts off of it to possibly install on my Landy. The trunk carpet makes a good bed liner, and fits like it was made for it! I also took the battery, alternator, head unit, radio, electric radiator fans etc. My plan is to eventually wire in the alternator from the Ford alongside the existing dynamo, to power a separate accessories circuit, and to have a redundant power source in case of dynamo failure. The alternator is PCM controlled, and I haven’t been able to find a pinout to figure out which wire is signal. My main question for this is what type of signal is it, is it PWM or voltage controlled?
My final Question is about my transmission. When I depress the clutch pedal, occasionally it makes a really loud squealing noise. I’ve found it happens most when I’m in low range and have forgotten to take off the parking brake (the torque from the low gearing makes it so I hardly notice when it’s still on) . and before you say throughout bearing, it doesn’t sound like any bad throughout bearing I’ve ever heard. It’s extremely loud, and it’s a lower pitch vibration-sounding noise that sounds almost like a starter motor when turning over a big V8, or drag out a wooden chair. It goes away completely when I release the clutch, and while it’s making the noise It seems to grind the gears more when I shift into gear, however that could be me trying to shift too hastily as first and second are unsynchronized. Since I’ve been getting better at driving it, the noise seems to be happening less and less, driving flawlessly the rest of the time. I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Another problem I’ve run into is when removing the rear wheels to get to the brakes, so i can rebuild the cylinders. When I was taking the lug nuts off, Out of the 10 lug nuts on the rear two wheels, I managed to unscrew 3 lug nuts off the studs, and 7 studs out of the hub. After I separate the studs that came out from their lug nut, can I reuse the studs or should I replace them?
Also, the back brake drums where stuck on the brake pads, and I was able to improvise a puller from a ratchet strap and a piece of PVC pipe to go on the hub. Worked pretty well, and I think would be a useful tip for people without an actual puller.
Thanks again for all the help you’ve given to the people who want to do things themselves.
Ryan