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I’ve seen these break a few times, I have two cousins with KJ’s so I’ll definitely keep this in mind. Thanks for the great tip!
Very interesting, I’ve thought about this before but don’t see resorting to it no matter how bad my E gets. Makes sense for a beater though. Was removing that tail housing thing from the trans even necessary? From what I understand, all the clutching action is done by the rear diff, that looks like it’s just a gear assembly?
First check which cylinder head you have, just look under the oil filler cap. You will either see “TUPY” like the picture I’ve attached or almost certainly a crack in that area (I’ve never seen a 99-02 head that wasn’t cracked).
Also, test to make sure you’re getting accurate oil pressure readings first.
Eric I agree 110% with what you’ve said here, it makes sense for your build. I personally am never going back from EFI, whether it’s at the throttle body, multi port, or direct injection. But then again most of my experiences with carbs has been on cheap frustrating lawn mowers and mopeds and old cars and motorcycles that everything may not be 100% up to par on.
And besides, it’s a Ford, the less technology the less to break 😉
Oil pressure problems are almost never the pump. It could just be the sensor, 02 still used an actual pressure gauge (later Grand Cherokee’s had a “fake” gauge with only 2 positions).
If the sending unit / gauge check out, it could be any number of internal engine problems, but 02 was the changeover year for cylinder head castings so I’d suspect the head and head gasket first.
Try parking on the curb or over a gutter on a sloped driveway so you can get underneath it while there’s weight on the suspension. Then have someone rock the steering wheel and see if you can locate anything. This is how I diagnosed my compliance bushings before I knew they were such a common problem.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=164738][quote=”stiv625″ post=164698]Awww isn’t this the car from the valve adjustment video? It was so minty back then, now it’s all ghetto haha[/quote]
Several people have asked that. This is NOT the car from the valve adjustment video. THAT car was well looked after. This one was not.[/quote]
Ah what a relief… I was crying inside, like what happened to this fine specimen haha
Awww isn’t this the car from the valve adjustment video? It was so minty back then, now it’s all ghetto haha
That is the exact symptom of a bad TPS on these jeeps. I’ve replaced several on my Grand Cherokees. I have two cousins with 06-07 Libertys but no word of TPS issues yet. I had to replace the O2 sensors on one of them at about 80k miles, she was noticing occasional rough running/idle. But yours is almost certainly the TPS.
A close friend of mine has an 01 Windstar with 276k mi and I noticed a slight misfire off idle when I borrowed it last weekend (never did this before), sorry I’m no help but I’d be curious to see what turns up.
Yeah, the WJ was left out of the recall. I picked up a tow hitch from the junkyard for $35 for my 2000 WJ, you could always do that if you’re worried about it. The factory skid plate is kind of a joke, it’s very thin, like, think aluminum can just about. My brother has an 04 Freedom Edition w/ upgraded skid plates, his fuel tank skid is like 1/4″ thick, very substantial.
[quote=”shaun” post=163886]I bolt trans to engine first. If you bolt torque converter first you risk the tranny still being able to move and the torque converter being pulled out of its home spot in the tranny. That’s my opinion.[/quote]
I agree. It’s almost impossible to get the torque converter to mate to the input shaft of the transmission if it comes out while bolted to flywheel unless you pull everything back out and start over. You should always have enough clearance to spin the flywheel to line up the torque converter bolts with the bell housing bolted to the engine block. I had a friend try and force the torque converter on using the bell housing bolts, and it didn’t mate properly and he had no ATF pressure and had to do it all over.
Very common problem indeed, the Honda dealer broke mine in the winter doing the airbag as well. Picked up another cable from junkyard, looking to do this soon as well, thanks for the comprehensive video.
Guess I can consider myself lucky my Element is an ’03 and everything is perfect as far as coolant/corrosion. Honda had some serious quality issues in general in the early-mid 2000s. We had a 2007 Civic that the dealer basically gave up on at 47k miles, suggested they’d rather give a discount on a new car than keep repairing under warranty. No thanks, rolled it across the parking lot to trade in on a new Chevy and never looked back.
For what it’s worth, Chrysler made many major improvements to the WJ (99-04 Grand Cherokee) in the later years. I’d frankly have to agree, the 99-01s particularly were problematic, especially with the 4.0 engine and 42RE transmission. But the 03s and ESPECIALLY the 04s are fantastic vehicles. My brother has an 04 4.0 now and it’s basically bulletproof. There are very few parts on the 2004 model year in common with earlier years. Then you have the DaimlerChrysler mess that is the WK, the newer Grand Cherokees are nice though. Available with a Maserati engine in 2018 or something? Haha.
