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This is what it looks like now. No, it’s not just the lighting or camera, the coolant really is pretty much black….. 🙁
This is what it looks like now. No, it’s not just the lighting or camera, the coolant really is pretty much black….. 🙁
Found it, it’s about 12 minutes into this video:
P.S. You lucky duck, you’ve got the same car as Eric now!
Found it, it’s about 12 minutes into this video:
P.S. You lucky duck, you’ve got the same car as Eric now!
Sounds like it could be fuel pump / check valve. I just saw this exact issue covered by ETCG the other day, I believe in one of the live Q&A sessions. An easy test for this is to “prime” the fuel system first. Try turning the key to “ON” but don’t start it, wait 5 seconds, turn the key off, turn back on, wait, turn off, then try to start it and see if that helps.
Sounds like it could be fuel pump / check valve. I just saw this exact issue covered by ETCG the other day, I believe in one of the live Q&A sessions. An easy test for this is to “prime” the fuel system first. Try turning the key to “ON” but don’t start it, wait 5 seconds, turn the key off, turn back on, wait, turn off, then try to start it and see if that helps.
I just did mine with a TPS connector from a donor car and ran a new wire from the TPS signal to as far back as I could get the wire from the PCM connector without taking the harness apart, maybe 3″. I guess you could do all 3 if you think there might be a problem with the TPS’s splice from the sensor ground and/or 5v circuit in the harness. Installed a brand new TPS after doing that and so far so good. I like to use crimp connectors most the time but since I seemed to have suspect enough wiring as it is and this is for sensitive engine mgmt I went ahead and soldered these.
I just did mine with a TPS connector from a donor car and ran a new wire from the TPS signal to as far back as I could get the wire from the PCM connector without taking the harness apart, maybe 3″. I guess you could do all 3 if you think there might be a problem with the TPS’s splice from the sensor ground and/or 5v circuit in the harness. Installed a brand new TPS after doing that and so far so good. I like to use crimp connectors most the time but since I seemed to have suspect enough wiring as it is and this is for sensitive engine mgmt I went ahead and soldered these.
I just went ahead and covered all bases b/c I really had little faith in the wiring. I soldered a TPS connector from a donor vehicle and a new signal wire going directly to the PCM before installing a new $40 TPS from the auto parts store (normally I’d hold out for an OEM sensor but didn’t want to risk a fried $90 part so we’ll see).
The sensor now reads .15v closed 5.27v open without being connected to the TB, reads .69v closed 4.05v open installed. Not quite the rec’d / FSM’s spec but close enough it seems so far. Short test drive rendered no issues and the sensor still has exactly those same values afterwards (the 2nd TPS’s signal values deteriorated the longer it was installed).
Thanks everybody for the suggestions on how to test the signal circuit, time will tell but hopefully this will hold up. I guess I oughta not jinx it and ask what comes next should this solution not prove permanent 😉
I just went ahead and covered all bases b/c I really had little faith in the wiring. I soldered a TPS connector from a donor vehicle and a new signal wire going directly to the PCM before installing a new $40 TPS from the auto parts store (normally I’d hold out for an OEM sensor but didn’t want to risk a fried $90 part so we’ll see).
The sensor now reads .15v closed 5.27v open without being connected to the TB, reads .69v closed 4.05v open installed. Not quite the rec’d / FSM’s spec but close enough it seems so far. Short test drive rendered no issues and the sensor still has exactly those same values afterwards (the 2nd TPS’s signal values deteriorated the longer it was installed).
Thanks everybody for the suggestions on how to test the signal circuit, time will tell but hopefully this will hold up. I guess I oughta not jinx it and ask what comes next should this solution not prove permanent 😉
Hmmm, just tried that and before I even jumped it the TPS signal went to 5.2v just from unplugging it. Is it supposed to do that? I guess I should try a new wire from the PCM to the TPS connector for the signal and hope that solves my problem.
Hmmm, just tried that and before I even jumped it the TPS signal went to 5.2v just from unplugging it. Is it supposed to do that? I guess I should try a new wire from the PCM to the TPS connector for the signal and hope that solves my problem.
Hey, just read your first thread on MAP problems, sounds like you have a very similar issue as my Jeep right now. How did you come to the conclusion that was the wire with the short? Like you I’m having TPS codes, drivability problems that improve with the TPS disconnected, and I’m showing like 1.3v on the 5v reference and sensor ground circuits with the PCM unplugged. I swapped the TPS sensor with a working one and the car was great for a little while but problems returned quickly so I concluded a short is damaging or manipulating the TPS signal….
Hey, just read your first thread on MAP problems, sounds like you have a very similar issue as my Jeep right now. How did you come to the conclusion that was the wire with the short? Like you I’m having TPS codes, drivability problems that improve with the TPS disconnected, and I’m showing like 1.3v on the 5v reference and sensor ground circuits with the PCM unplugged. I swapped the TPS sensor with a working one and the car was great for a little while but problems returned quickly so I concluded a short is damaging or manipulating the TPS signal….
I know, it often times does on these, sometimes it takes a while for the filter to completely fill. Just something to keep in mind. I end up doing about 5.5 qts and adding .5-1.0 qt in between changes. Even if it was a tad low that alone wouldn’t cause that noise anyways, just thought I’d mention that…