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Jonathan Stiver

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  • in reply to: ECU failure? #506700
    Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
    Participant

      Thermostats are cheap and easy man, get a new one in there and I bet you’ll pass inspection within a few days

      in reply to: ECU failure? #508504
      Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
      Participant

        Thermostats are cheap and easy man, get a new one in there and I bet you’ll pass inspection within a few days

        in reply to: ECU failure? #506696
        Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
        Participant

          Bingo. In order to reach closed loop operation (where the computer is looking at sensors and making fuel adjustments on it’s own) the engine needs to be up to operating temperature, in the ballpark of 185-205*F. When the engine is cold it runs in open loop, meaning it just runs default settings that are not ideal for performance, MPG, or emissions. You’ll have to work on the cooling system issue first before diagnosing the ECU.

          in reply to: ECU failure? #508500
          Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
          Participant

            Bingo. In order to reach closed loop operation (where the computer is looking at sensors and making fuel adjustments on it’s own) the engine needs to be up to operating temperature, in the ballpark of 185-205*F. When the engine is cold it runs in open loop, meaning it just runs default settings that are not ideal for performance, MPG, or emissions. You’ll have to work on the cooling system issue first before diagnosing the ECU.

            in reply to: ECU failure? #506691
            Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
            Participant

              Okay, so not setting Readiness codes. How many miles / what kind of driving have you tried? It would be helpful to use an OBD scanner to see if ANY of the Readiness codes are setting. Try performing a “drive cycle” like this:
              http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html

              in reply to: ECU failure? #508494
              Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
              Participant

                Okay, so not setting Readiness codes. How many miles / what kind of driving have you tried? It would be helpful to use an OBD scanner to see if ANY of the Readiness codes are setting. Try performing a “drive cycle” like this:
                http://www.lyberty.com/car/drive-cycle.html

                in reply to: ECU failure? #506687
                Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                Participant

                  ECUs rarely fail in my experience. There are a lot of other things that can cause symptoms that would appear to be the ECUs fault, though. You would know if the ECU failed. The car wouldn’t run or would throw OBD codes like no tomorrow. Another possibility is it’s inability to set Readiness monitors for emissions testing. My Neon has had a P0601 come on every single time the car is started since I bought it a year ago. The suggested fix is to replace the computer but the car runs and drives perfect so I ignore it.

                  What kind of troubles are you having with your car that makes the ECU suspect?

                  in reply to: ECU failure? #508490
                  Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                  Participant

                    ECUs rarely fail in my experience. There are a lot of other things that can cause symptoms that would appear to be the ECUs fault, though. You would know if the ECU failed. The car wouldn’t run or would throw OBD codes like no tomorrow. Another possibility is it’s inability to set Readiness monitors for emissions testing. My Neon has had a P0601 come on every single time the car is started since I bought it a year ago. The suggested fix is to replace the computer but the car runs and drives perfect so I ignore it.

                    What kind of troubles are you having with your car that makes the ECU suspect?

                    in reply to: Over heating, no heat problem #493617
                    Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                    Participant

                      Did you try a new pressure cap? Seriously I don’t get it but those things always end up leaking after not too long. Had an old Cavalier that went through 3 in 8 months, would run great for 2 months then occasionally overheat and leak from the cap… it probably had other issues though.

                      in reply to: Over heating, no heat problem #494831
                      Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                      Participant

                        Did you try a new pressure cap? Seriously I don’t get it but those things always end up leaking after not too long. Had an old Cavalier that went through 3 in 8 months, would run great for 2 months then occasionally overheat and leak from the cap… it probably had other issues though.

                        in reply to: Over heating, no heat problem #493615
                        Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                        Participant

                          Hmmmm…. air in the system, low coolant level, clogged passages, poor circulation/pressure (pump/leaks), bad/stuck thermostat OR faulty temp sensor (false high readings on gauge) – is the order I would investigate things for the heater. We used to help coax out air bubbles by “massaging” the radiator/heater hoses. Even on my buddy’s car with the BHG he drove it for a long time like that by just bleeding the new air out of the cooling system every couple weeks.

                          in reply to: Over heating, no heat problem #494830
                          Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                          Participant

                            Hmmmm…. air in the system, low coolant level, clogged passages, poor circulation/pressure (pump/leaks), bad/stuck thermostat OR faulty temp sensor (false high readings on gauge) – is the order I would investigate things for the heater. We used to help coax out air bubbles by “massaging” the radiator/heater hoses. Even on my buddy’s car with the BHG he drove it for a long time like that by just bleeding the new air out of the cooling system every couple weeks.

                            in reply to: Over heating, no heat problem #493439
                            Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                            Participant

                              [quote=”roywrench22″ post=46383]I recently was working on a 2002 Tauras that was losing it’s coolant out of the pressure cap. It would blow off at about 12psi instead of the 16 it was supposed to hold. If your system isn’t pressurized fully you will overheat sooner. (water boils at a higher temp. at a higher pressure)[/quote]

                              I agree, the pressure cap is the first thing I check / replace when dealing with cooling / heater issues. Has fixed the problem in at least 85% of cases I’ve had. Sometimes when they go out it is an indication of another problem. I had a friend go through 4 rad caps, 2 thermostats, and a new radiator before eventually confirming my hypothesis – blown/leaking head gasket for ~6 months (exhaust/compression was leaking into the cooling system dumping hot air and extra stress on it). Regulating pressure and keeping air out are crucial to proper flow to the heater core & temp sensor.

                              in reply to: Over heating, no heat problem #494671
                              Jonathan StiverJonathan Stiver
                              Participant

                                [quote=”roywrench22″ post=46383]I recently was working on a 2002 Tauras that was losing it’s coolant out of the pressure cap. It would blow off at about 12psi instead of the 16 it was supposed to hold. If your system isn’t pressurized fully you will overheat sooner. (water boils at a higher temp. at a higher pressure)[/quote]

                                I agree, the pressure cap is the first thing I check / replace when dealing with cooling / heater issues. Has fixed the problem in at least 85% of cases I’ve had. Sometimes when they go out it is an indication of another problem. I had a friend go through 4 rad caps, 2 thermostats, and a new radiator before eventually confirming my hypothesis – blown/leaking head gasket for ~6 months (exhaust/compression was leaking into the cooling system dumping hot air and extra stress on it). Regulating pressure and keeping air out are crucial to proper flow to the heater core & temp sensor.

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