Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Totally Agree with Hanneman and Relative4…..
Here is the real secret from a Master Tech and someone who has been working on cars for over 34 years…… Especially in regard to a 2011 Camry…
DO WHAT THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS!!!!
IF IT SAYS SYNTHETIC, GIVE IT SYNTHETIC!!!
IF IT SAYS CHANGE AT 10K MILES, CHANGE IT AT 10K MILES!!!
IF IT SAYS CHANGE AT 5K MILES IN DUSTY CONDITIONS AND YOU LIVE IN AN AREA WITH DUSTY CONDITIONS, CHANGE IT AT 5K MILES!!
IT AINT HARD PEOPLE!!!
P.S. If you are one of those crazy engine oil guys, you should go and join Bobistheoilguy.com to argue incessantly about how to get 800,000 miles on your engine without any ticking and what oil and additive is the best when you get a tick at 537,342 miles!!! 🙂
:):):)
-Karl
I am with your mechanic on this one….
Unfortunately, sometimes people get told what they need to hear, not what they want to hear…. It is human nature to want it to be a very simple fix….
Good luck
-Karl
So let me get this right…. after you start it it has a significant rattle for a split second, then you have no noise and it is quiet as a mouse???
Then, it runs fine and causes no issues?
It is currently running fine and has no problems?
All this on a SIXTEEN (16) year old vehicle with 146K miles on it and you want it to be silent as the day it was bought?
Talk about first world problems (LOL :))
1. yes, it is probably ticking due to lifters.
2. See above
3. Uh, is it worth replacing lifters…. Well, you want to tear into your engine and replace the lifters spending several hours doing this, then I suppose it is…. However when replacing lifters you have to replace them all, and you should replace the CAM.
4. See above.
P.S. you can always go to bobistheoilguy.com and tell them about your issue and have 45+people tell you about amsoil, additives and secret potions that enable them to get 750k miles on their engines with no noises!!!! 🙂 🙂
Good luck
-Karl
Check all large fuses and fusible links (over 100 Amp) Sounds like you might have blown a main one.
Good luck
-Karl
Check your battery connections to ensure they are clean and tight… Also have your battery tested with a professional battery tester/battery tester they have at auto parts stores.
Good luck
-Karl
ICM might be an issue. Honda’s are not known for issues with Fuel pumps.
Would be best to monitor systems when it occurs with a MODIS (or other pro scan tool) and a fuel pressure gauge to observe what is going on.
Good luck
-Karl
Don’ t think you have an O2 sensor issue or Vtec issue, as those would manifest with a code. Additionally when cold the O2 sensors do not provide closed loop data (you are running on open loop when engine is cold). VTEC issue would be when under a throttle condition, so highly unlikely.
I would ask when the last time you had a tune up (new plugs, air filter, etc)?
If it has been over 80k miles since plugs were changed(or check for proper plugs) or the air filter is dirty, you could be having issues until the computer adjusts for the conditions.
Good luck
-Karl
Do you have the stalling/almost stalling issue only when the A/C compressor is engaged?
Depending on the above. At idle I would do a power balance test. It is possible you may have an under-performing cylinder and when the A/C is on, it causes an issue. The slight blink of the check engine light could be indicative of a misfire (but should throw a P030X code), so that may not be it…
I would also check the fuel pressure as well as a cylinder compression check/leak down test of all the cylinders if I could still not make a determination.
Good luck
-Karl
First thing I would do is ensure the battery connections were clean and tight… Then get the battery tested. Low batteries can throw all kinds of ghost codes… Remember a battery should be at least 12.6 volts and even if it does have the volts it may still lack the cranking amps!
Good luck
-Karl
OK. This is a very easy check.
First, Check fuse #6 in fuse box under your steering wheel to ensure it is not blown. It should say RL door. It should be 20 Amps.
This is a very simple circuit. It goes from the fuse box under your steering wheel back to the window switch (see pics).
So as I said, check fuse #6 first, then use a multimeter to see if there is any continuity from that fuse area to the switch on door (using ohms)
If you have no continuity, then there is a break somewhere in between. Very simple. The wiring should run under the door sill covers and up the drivers side kick panel to the fuse box.
This is as easy as I can make it. If you have issues with the schematics, perhaps ask some friends for help…
Here are some pics. Follow the pink #6 line….
Good luck.
Karl
Are you certain the root issue was really the distributor? Misfiring can be fuel delivery related as well as issues with cylinder compression.
Good luck
-Karl
Here is a free resource for wiring diagrams
http://www.bbbind.com/tsb-wiring-diagrams/
I would check for voltage at the wiring into the B post. Your should be able to pull the rubber boot back and check the wiring on the B post side harness. If it is not there then continue to follow the wiring back to fuse box.
Good Luck
-Karl