Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
A bung is the hole in the radiator with the threads that the coolant line fitting screws into…
-Karl
This should not require any sealer that I am aware of. Something is wrong with the fitting or the bung….
Good Luck!
-Karl
It could be broken wire in the system somewhere (between door and B post). Have never seen this in a normal running Corolla (however have seen issues like these in cars from body shops where black electrical tape is found in the circuit…)
Also could be switch, but your first check is for power to the systems.
Good luck
-Karl
Not sure really where to go with this, but based upon what I have read.
Getting 12.39V is low. A voltage supply from the battery should be 12.6 or above. A battery which is at 12.5 is a 25% discharged, 12.4 is 50% discharged, 12.3 is 75% discharged. Check your battery at the terminal and find out what you really have.
Your drop between the negative battery and the solenoid says that something in that connection is not correct. I would look hard there.
The other x variable is any aftermarket system you have on this vehicle. Great care should be taken to ensure that is hooked up correctly.
Good luck..
-Karl
[quote=”Toolman7832″ post=202383]Well iv had the same problem what i did was i set up my meter to check the battery draw then i pulled each fuse individually and replaced it until the draw disappeared (you may have to reprogram some things Like your radio) if that doesn’t do it then i would assume it is before the fuse box or on a none fused circuit.[/quote]
Absolutely! I assumed he had pulled each fuse first and still had the issue. 🙂
-Karl
Check for power and grounds at those connections at the window/door lock actuator and work your way back to the main fuse box…
Good luck
-Karl
While real warped rotors are not as common as people diagnose, there can be several reasons.
The thickness of the rotors is off from the other side.
There is a slightly sticking pad/sticking pad on one side.
There is a sticky caliper/caliper pin on one side.
Slight fluid restriction on one side, pinched or kinked line.
Warped rotor (doesn’t happen as much as people think)
Good luck,
Karl
There should be at least two attachment points to the Alternator. One is generally a plug in, the other is a nut holding on a wire.
And to your other question, yes, the draw would not drop even after pulling all fuses because the hard line (the one with a nut holding the wire eyelet) is directly connected.
Good luck,
Karl
I am assuming you mean P0139. This is bank 1, sensor 2. Did you replace the downstream sensor?
-Karl
A simple mechanics stethoscope should help your diagnosis. A load roar from the housing indicates bearings. The only other friction contact are your brushes, which could be on their last bit of material…especially if it is original equipment…
Good luck
-Karl
I have worked on dozens of Corollas (Generation 8, 1998-2002) and have never seen an issue like you have described. Only start problems I ever encounter are battery connection issues and most starters on these last a lifetime…
ECM had no anti theft. There was only RS3000 and RS3200 systems (one factory installed, one dealer installed)
When you mentioned wire splices and cut out aftermarket, I cringe a little. More than likely the problem is due to the aftermarket parts/aftermarket installation.
Karl
Parasitic draw can be caused by a bad diode. I would try disconnecting the alternator and see where this goes.
Good luck,
Karl
I have seen on Sequoias that have difficulty steering and it was the intermediate shaft and not the steering rack FWIW
Karl