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MAF will cause this issue. You can try cleaning them, but Toyota does not recommend it. Also, if you do try to clean the MAF, the red bulb is not the wire to clean (That is the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT). The part that needs sprayed is the wire down in the middle.
Also The issue with the leaking air on the intake manifold gasket was for 2003+ Corollas when they changed to a plastic intake and the gaskets were plastic/rubber. The 1998-2002 intakes were a fairly stout aluminum and the gaskets were metal.
Good luck
-Karl
Second and third chart looks normal as relative4 said. They are proportionate to each other in voltage which, if the engine is to temp is indicative of a CAT that is not working properly. This means that the cat is not doing its job and the S2 sensor is saying the same thing as the S1 sensor. That however should cause a P0420 if driven far enough….
The issue with the P1133 should not have anything to do with the above. Have you checked your fuses and Relays for the O2 sensors? While it appears they are getting voltage, there may be an issue with it heating up…
Also, is this a California emissions vehicle?
Good luck
-Karl
If the head is already attached to the engine, move pistons to an all even level, I.E. none at TDC they should be halfway between stroke. (use a long screwdriver down the spark plug hole to check). Then install the Cam. Once the Cam is installed, turn the cam to ensure all valves are shut and rotate the crank to appropriate position for the pistons and put in time by slowly rotating the cam. If you make contact, stop and re-think what you have done.
-Karl
I HIGHLY, HIGHLY, HIGHLY discourage using Universal O2 sensors. Use the brand the OEM calls for..
Good luck
-Karl
Have the battery tested. It should be at least 12.6v. You could just have a bad battery.
Also may be ELD related…
Good luck
-Karl
Was this engine rebuilt?
Was there a High volume Oil pump put on? These can cause these issues.
Wrong Cam/Distributor gear match up?
Camshaft end play? Thrust plate?
Good luck
-Karl
What speed is he turning the car. Is this at a stop?
While it is a bit of a newer car and without knowing anything, I would suggest to check the transmission fluid level.
Remember to check the fluid when the engine has reached operating temperature and the vehicle is running in Neutral or Park.
Good luck
-Karl
Based upon what you have said, I think this may be a transmission issue.
I think you may be having an issue with your TCC locking up for overdrive. It could be solenoid related, or something deeper. The fact that your transmission fluid is black is not a good sign.
As far as what to do next, that is difficult. The costs incurred on a 26 year old vehicle may outweigh the complete value…. The transmission repair, may not solve the issue…
As you may know, changing the transmission fluid and filter at this point in the transmissions lifetime (especially the mileage) could lead to slipping and poorer performance (all the grit material will be removed and there will be slipping on the steel and what is left on the friction disks…
Personally, if it had to last a month. I suppose I would just ride it out for a month then sell it off… 415k is quite some mileage.
Best of luck
-Karl
I understand your frustration. But this situation would challenge any tech that even had the car in front of him.
Nightflyr was trying to help as best as the description warrants. On occasion, people need to be told what they need to hear, not what they want to hear. Please bear that in mind.
It is very challenging and my best advise would be to try to find an Indy shop that would take it.
I can tell you if I was the shop that would accept your car that due to the nature of the problem it may take some time and I cannot guarantee any quick results. You could have anything from a bad ecu, to a frayed wire, to a timing issue.. etc…
Good luck,
Karl
Since you have replaced everything but the brake lines and you said this was a Salvage automobile. I would trace all those brake lines under the car for any bends or kinks… Perhaps disconnect them altogether and see how well compressed air can go through them…
Not much else I can help with that you have not already replaced.
Good luck…
-Karl
1998 and OBD1? Must not have been for the U.S. market….
Those 4.7’s were well known for head/valve seat issues (Intake valve seats coming out), valve springs breaking and cracking in the heads.
I would do a leak down test on those problem cylinders…
Good luck!
-Karl
The key thing to remember about a vibration is that vibration is caused by something that is rotating. I think you were on a logical track checking out your mounts.
Does the vibration occur in park as bad as it does in gear with the brake on?
A remote possibility could be a cracked flex plate (if an automatic) or an issue with the front crank damper (chunk missing, messing up balance)
Another possibility is an internal issue (underperforming cylinder due to valve or piston ring damage) – A Compression check can diagnose this.
Good luck!
-Karl
I would say a fuel treatment is a shot in the dark. If it is an In tank one, the only one that remotely works is Techron. The rest is snake oil. As for injection cleaning, I have my doubts.
Since the fuel delivery system and pressure is good, I would start looking elsewhere for your issue. Ensure you are getting spark and ensure you have a good battery.
Good luck
-Karl