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[WDHewson]

Thanks guys.

For some reason the link won’t copy into the note properly, even after an edit attempt, but you have it right. See Genius Tools DE-706M.

Usually I can get to things with a breaker bar and socket, but once in a while tight packaging of components limits space.

[WDHewson]

Thanks guys.

I’m a big fan of penetrating oils and heat.

However, I usually find that the degree of penetration is pretty low,,,,,even if you soak it repeatedly for days. Heat is very effective, perhaps not so much for the differential expansion, but for the melting of the crud that is jamming the threads.

[WDHewson]

Eric:

Thanks.

I monitor my remaining pad friction material pretty religiously. For two reasons, keeping the brakes fit, and getting the most out of my pads before replacement, so I let the friction mater get pretty thin, but not so much to activate the squealers.

As the friction material thins the pin sliders extend more from their holes and are more likely to bind if slightly imperfect regarding lube, dirt, rust.

With respect to all….

[WDHewson]

Hello and thanks to those who so helpfully replied.

My pad life is really pretty good. In kilometers, about 120 000 km for the front and about 155 000 km for the rears. And very equal wear left and right and inboard and outboard pads. But I do drive like the old man that I am, and my geography is flat flat flat.

So I think that my small amout of heat is pretty normal for this car. I do have the little “pip” on the inboard rear pad correctly located into the piston surface recesses.

But my occupation has me doing a lot of energy efficiency studies, and I find it irksome that my gasoline is heating the rotors while I don’t actually have the brakes intentionally applied. Thanks again.

[Author]

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