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Perhaps everything was indeed freely moving and relaxing for the piston and caliper assembly.
What is the possibility the the pads were new and installed on a rotor with a gouged inboard surface from earlier metal on metal mishaps? If the outboard rotor surface is pretty good, pad wear will be near a normal rate. But if the inboard rotor surface is over-rough, it will carve the pad down pretty quickly.
You would have to know the history of the situation to decide.
The quality of household tap water varies widely. It could be hard or soft, full of chlorine residuals, lots of salt, and even corrosive sulfides. The inexpensive gallon of distillled water for dilution of the antifreeze concentrate is highly worth the effort.
What I find unbelieveable is the 10 year coolant change interval for my 2003 Accord Coupe. And Honda is probably being cautiously conservative, so maybe I’ll change it after 15 years, Which is to say it will probably leak out when the car is being crushed for recycling.
MY Honda CRV of 1999 had a stubborn crank bolt. The 1/2 inch electric impact would not budge it, and it is the only contest that this impact has lost.
With the proper hexagonal pulley holding tool, and a 28 inch breaker bar, I got it unthreaded. I had no cheater on the breaker bar, and I was only at about 60% of maximum effort when she loosened.
I consider the starter method of breaking this bolt loose as an abomination, but I too have done abominal things from time to time.
I recently had to remove the crank pulley on a Generation 1 Honda CRV, and it completely resisted my electric 1/2 inch impact. It was the only time since buying this impact wrench that it has been defeated.
I second all the above advice with use of impact extensions and socket, with the proper crank pulley holding tool, and fully support of the extensions at the “bar” end. From there it is just a matter of muscle.
In my case the use of any type of penetration oil would have been 100% useless. The sealing effect of the washer under the bolt head was perfect, and nothing would have soaked through. The 19mm bolt’s threads were factory new, and this is after 12y of Canadian salt road driving. Re-installation included a dab of antiseize on the washer and threads.
Thanks for the advice on the sediment, and I’ll treat it as normal with no worries.
Regarding the rear differential oil change interval of 30 000 km, I hate to tell you how long that fluid was in there, but substantially longer.
Even at 250 000 km, this CRV is still pretty good, but as she approches the crusher, my maintenance habits fall off pretty quickly. The oil that’s in her now just might be lubricating the future “crush”.
Leave an imperceptibly light smear of dishwashing liquid, which lowers the surface tension and prevent droplet beading. This is a version of the earlier mentioned soap trick.
A nice feature of modern radiator hose clamps is that they are designed to have the right tension and can’t crush the rubber too much or won’t clamp too weakly. But the hose has to be of the right rubber stiffness, or pliability, and everything has to be clean and flawless.
This summer my 1999 Honda CRV blew a transmission cooler hose. When I examined the hose, the pinhole was really small, and I had to flex the hose to open the hole, and even then needed a magnifying glass. The storey being, make sure your hose is good.
Thanks for you brake pad update. I’ve got about 2000 km on the bargin imego rear pads and they seem to be performing quite well. No unusual dust or noise. And the pads seem to have bedded in reasonably well.
But as you point out, this might be a 9 year experiment.
Honda brakes are way too fussy regarding drag.
My 1977 Civic Hatchback (yes 1977) would drag its front pads unless everything was diassembled, cleaned and lubed every 6 months. Here we are 34 years later, and they haven’t fixed it. Right now there are three Hondas in my driveway, and only the CR-V doesn’t seem overly fussy about pad drag.
Interestingly, my 3 previous Camrys never had a brake drag problem.
I suppose this is why they say Hondas are engines first and cars second. Honda only makes cars so they can make their first love, that is engines. Sounds overly critical, but interesting to ponder.
BigC:
For pad life, no noise, ease on the rotor, and low dust, the Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic is the best I’ve encountered.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/AftermarketSolutions/NorthAmerica/BrakingSolutions/Products/BrakePads-Shoes/WagnerPassengerVehicle/Thermoquiet/
I see that the link paste problem still exists. Is it only me??
They are a little pricey in my Canadian location.
Dreamer:
Good question about spakplug antiseize.
The first thing I do when buying a vehicle, new or old, is apply a bit of antiseize on the sparkplug base threads. Lawnmowers too, come to think of it.
However, these antisieze coumpounds have metallic copper, lead, maybe zinc, which will poison your catalytic converter……so apply very little. I own a fair number of engines, and two tubes of antisieze are still about half full.
So far these imego rear pads seem to be fine.
But I’ve only got about 2000 km on them so far, and no great emergency stops, or downhill braking.
They seem noise free and don’t produce any ugly dust.
Hoever, it will really take about a year to get to know these pads.
Hi guys:
For years I have noticed this brown stain on my high voltage, large gap spark plugs. It worried me, and eventually discovered it is called a “corona stain”. See this link.
http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q17/index.html
If this link goofs up, just google “spark plug corna stain” and you will get it.
I believe this is correct, because oxidized oil readily dissolves in acetone, and acetone wipes this stain right off.
I think that the long plug service combines with a very high electric field to oxidize oil vapor in the plug well, and then electrostatically deposit this “fried” oil onto the plug porcelain.
See if your rust colored deposited wipes of with acetone, methanol, or nail polish remover (aka methylethylketone).
Sorry about all the technical vocabulary.