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Correct, engine running. Also check around injectors’ orings with water (sprayed) u might have a vacuum leak there too. I really hope you fix this today, good luck.
If you find that u still have an issue, pour (not spray) some water right at the intake manifold gasket while the engine is COLD and see if u get something. If not, you might consider a fuel delivery issue. Good luck.
Hi there. As been said already, first make sure you have no air bubbles in the cooling system, watch Eric’s video and make absolutely sure you put the heater temperature on the hottest setting. Last resource is a water pump. If not, if you have an overheating history then wost case scenario is that you have a headgasket or warped block problem. Keep us posted.
Hi there. No you don’t have to reset it. The O2 sensor will read the fix and send the correct signal to the pcm so the fuel trim normalize. It would be good if you provide us with the O2 readings as well. Make sure that the sealant you used did the job right. Use water as well to check for vacuum leaks and just for the heck of it, pinch the brake booster’s vacuum hose also. Keep us posted.
Hi there. Try spraying som carb cleaner through the throttle and crank it. If it turns on and stalls the you might want to follow fuel direction. Your compression seems low… Try a wet test and see the results. You might be facing a mechanical problem here if it doesn’t get any better. Keep us posted.
Make absolutely sure you have no air bubbles in the cooling system. As for the temp, it might be a stuck open thermostat.
Do an injector and coil pulse test. If you’re nit recieving input then we might suspect a no rpm signal reaching your ecm. Then you have to check the crankshaft position sensor. Try for spark and fuel first then pulse.
Ok so the truck stall right when you hit the gas? Or when is idle? I got confused because Inunderstand that it stalls randomnly on the road while idling. A clogged cat creates a lot of preassure in the combustion chamber causing it to stall. Using a infra red thermometer you can check it. Also hit the cam sensor with plastic hammer or the back of a screwdriver while the engine is running just for the heck of it. I know you already used a lot of resources…
Was there any job you did to the truck BEFORE it showed the problem? Also, just for the heck of it, check the catalytic converter to see if it’s clogged… And check your grounds too.
[quote=”peshewa” post=155007]I feel your problem is solely electrical. I have seen numerous situations where a car runs far worse when its raining or humid and every one it was electrical.
You’ve done a lot already and its all good stuff. Now it’s time to find the bad connections. All ends of all battery cables need to be inspected. Clean the ends if you must. How did the connection on the crank sensor look? If it’s hobbled together that will cause issues. Is the ECU in the engine bay in the elements? If so, disconnect it and look for corrosion in the connections.
I’ve seen your problems also in a car with a starter that was on its way out. The car started fine and the starter made no strange noises, but it was shorted out internally. Getting one of those free charging system checks may help there.
If you have an eprobe you can go thru critical wires looking for internal breakages also. I would trace critical sensor wires like crank, cam, tps and coil connections then to the ECU as well.
I hope you get it fixed man. Also, are you sure your truck was never under water? These issues sound a lot like a flood recovery vehicle as well. Look under the seat and floor mats and even under the dashboard for signs of fine silt like dirt and a musty odor. If that’s the case you may have even more work ahead of you.[/quote]I agree. Check connections and make sure that you clean all that oil from the wires.