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The first two replacement cylinders I used were new, one dorman, one centric. Both leaked at the back so I put the original on, and even then I wasnt getting excessive travel. Then I got a new original and returned it recently because I thought it might have been that. Original back in, I have the same symptom at times. Basically became a pro at replacing these cylinders. I always bleed them out at the front two lines, and never had a problem with air in the system. Lines are all dry, and fluid level is the same.
Could it be a minor vacuum leak? I heard sometimes that causes brakes to feel spongy. What about debris in the system?
I think any good parts store should have them. They should be the same threads as the fitting and close the port. If all else fails, maybe you can try going to a decent shop. Some will diagnose free, but based on symptoms, its most likely gonna be a proportioning valve or master cylinder problem
Are they rear rotors or drums? What I would personally do is if the same issue comes up again, I would disconnect the two lines and use a brass fitting to seal off the lines to the master cylinder so you can isolate the system. If the pedal still doesnt move, you know its a cylinder or booster issue, but more likely mc
I think this might be the issue. Either the booster or master cylinder. It is possible overtime the master cylinder pistons can seize overtime from crud in the system and cause one cylinder or both to stick. As the brake fluid gets hotter, it expands and can make the seals expands as well, causing it to stick. Do you hear a hissing noise from the booster? Is it only the front side that sticks or the same rear side as well?
I know this may or may not help, but I found myself in a situation with this once. Try bleeding the two lines that connect right to the master cylinder. I had a problem with a car jeep once after pushing the cylinder back up, it got air trapped in the master cylinder, and no amount of wheel bleeding fixed it. It may be a long shot, but cant hurt. Just wedge a bar between the seat, push it up and crack open the lines and close it a few times.
If you also suspect a vacuum leak try to see if you hear any noise while the engine is on depressing the pedal.
Its off a 08 yaris base model, front calipers, rear drums. No abs. I use the car daily and fluid is fresh. The rubber hoses are good too.
This car naturally has somewhat of a mushy feeling pedal on the older yaris’s but I do seldom have an issue where I press on the brakes like maybe almost halfway and I feel like they arent engaging. The caliper sliders were lubricated a few months ago, and rear drum brakes were cleaned, lubricated and adjusted at the contact points on the backing plate. Also when I took the old fluid out of my master cylinder which is only a few weeks old, didnt see any contamination, just reused it in my old one.
If you are using conventional oil and changing it at the manufacturer recommended intervals than there is no need for synthetic or high end filters. On the other hand, I would avoid fram cheap orange filters. If you look at the cutouts, they are generally the worst. You can buy stp, carquest or napa economy filters made by wix and they are much better.
Just my 2 cents.
Check first indeed if the engine is seized or not. Look at the color of the oil, see if you find any metal in the oil. You can also pull out the spark plugs use a boroscope to be sure. The heater hose connects to the heatercore inside the firewall. The transmission is likely still fine, Look at the condition of the tranny fluid to be sure. If the engine is seized, you can try unseizing it by rotating the crank pulley clockwise, and using a bit of penetrating oil to free it up.
That is stupid. Where do you live? Here they allow one not ready, either evap or catalyst. I guess the only thing you can do is drive it normally, and check the monitors regularly with a scan tool to see at this point.
Get replacement bushings. Torch the seized pin with a propane or butane torch and rock it back and forth till you can get it loose. Dont use way too much pressure to get it out, like a socket and huge bar, you can actually break the pin. Clean the old pin and inside the caliper bracket with a file or something, regrease and reuse.
I replaced that fitting with an old one I had laying around. Only thing Im worried about is that small section of line that has an indentation from moving it in and out with the lines attached. Its right where the rear fitting is on the master cylinder. Its not kinked but u can see a grove around the circumference of one area where it took a lot of strain. It isnt bulged but looks like its pushed in about a mm all the way around. Hasnt leaked.