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Thanks, The connector is solidly held in place with super glue and zip ties with no movement at all. The wires at the back of the connector I feel have a very very slight movement when I pull on them before the connector sometimes. Probably normal for most connectors I guess. Thats what I meant, but no check engine light or codes at all. I am only worried because I tool the coil and wire off so many times.
Many remans fail, even alot of the cheap aftermarket new ones fail too. If you bleed it many times at the wheel, while stomping the brakes, and master cylinder, I would assume you have a bad master cylinder. See if you can swap it out for another.
I dont believe there is a misfire. I wiggle the connector a little and it doesnt produce an engine light, codes or anything. Only reason I mention is because sometimes I feel a vibration coming from inside, which could be the mounts. Usually its when I hold the pedal at a stop.
I removed the rtv and just used the zip tie. It did have some superglue on it. I noticed the 2 wires sometimes has a very tiny slack in them when u pull on them a little, but I never had CEL for a misfire. Is this normal? Sometimes the car has some rumble when I hold the brakes at a light. Someone mentioned it could be the motor mounts but im not sure.
I think as far is the transmission goes, many times the fluid quality impacts the shifting. From what you described it isnt too bad for its age and usage. Will you do a drain and fill or full flush? Some people like scotty recommended using full synthetic compatible fluid, but the original should go fine. I know honda is picky on PS fluid being honda only type.
Powersteering tends to leak as the car gets older, the rubber, and orings dry, or the high, or low line start to line.
Agreed. Stuff like wd40 wont last long. Probably needs something that would stay put for a lot longer, like white lithium grease,
It could very well be the brake fluid if it has enough moisture in it. You can use a cheap tester to figure it out. The booster is another common possibility. Does it happen all the time when its cold or only sometimes?
The ones I used were centric premium 13444001, and 13444000 both listed on centrics website. I thought it was odd, but maybe they made pushed back the internal seals a bit to compensate. None of them have leaks. On the other hand, I’ve had to replace a few raybestos ones on this car since most of the leaked and one dorman one which seized. Plus this centric one is made out of cast iron instead of aluminium oe, which I dont mind since I have had the bleeders strip on one before. I really dont plan on keeping this car too long, but still want it to be safe. Most of the steel lines are in very good shape. There was a few areas where it was starting to rust, and I coated it with grease, and sprayed the entire underbody with chainsaw oil to undercoat it.
I also noticed that the rear wheel cylinders, centric ones I used are a little smaller than the original, and its meant to fit more cars. I had to use make the adjustor a longer distance to put the brake shoes further to what they should be
I believe so, but I still keep my eye on it. At times I feel like its not firm as it should could be still but a few people mentioned that It can be the slight warpage on the front causing a somewhat of a soft pedal sometimes. The front pads have about 40% left.
Ball joints are important. If they have too much play sometimes they can seperating and caused catastrophic damage, like the wheel separating.
Mind you this is a 97 ram. It may be better to replace the entire control arm, i know of a few places in canada you can get these parts cheap.
I think you should start at looking at the brake fluid condition first, and replacing it. Look for seized calipers or calipers that wont let fluid out when your bleeding it. It likely means the rubber lines would be collapsed if that case.
Many old manifolds are a really pain to take out. Those studs and bolts are probably completely gone. Do you have any pictures?
The rotors could have some runout if you’ve used the brakes to hard. Water can also promote this on the rotors if they splash on it when its hot. Rotors can warp for many factors, but usually its heat, and thickness. I have the same problem. Rotors warped quickly, but I brake hard. Sometimes you notice the pulsation, other times no.
The other one I had before I put my original one was fine. I returned it and put my old one back on.
The rear fluid at the back of the master cylinder was likely from the two aftermarket ones I had. I did my best to clean the brake fluid in the booster. I know because after I pull it out after a few days, week or two my original one is still dry.
I bled the brakes today and the fronts seemed fine, but rear had some air pockets. I drove the car around a bit and looks like the pedal firmed up.. We did the two front lines, heating the bleeder screw, and opening it, and the backs came off easy. One side seemed to have dirtier fluid on the rear passenger side. Could it have been that I didnt bench bleed one of the master cylinders that there was air pockets? I thought air in the lines would be felt right away, but I could be wrong.