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[quote=”dave1645″ post=75127]a little hint I saw somewhere,for bleeding a cooling system and it works great go buy or find an old rad cap remove the the over flow retrieval valve from the cap just break it off on a cold engine swap out this cap for the one on your car now run your engine till your fan cycles you will
see bubbles in your overflow tank let this happen a couple of times turn off your engine let it cool
a little and put your regular cap back on this works great and its CHEAP stay dirty folks and happy cooling[/quote]Thanks! I’ll keep this in mind for next time. Thanks to everyone here. You guys are awesome!
[quote=”grg88″ post=74044]The general principle is that the air is going to collect at and has to exit from the highest point in the cooling system.
Now if you have a setup where the engine is low and the top of the radiator is above the top of the engine, then there is no need for a bleed screw, the air can exit through the radiator cap opening.
But if the car has a low-slung radiator, then most likely then engine cooling system has points that are higher than the top of the radiator, so they have to put a bleed screw at the topmost place, often where the top radiator hose connects to the engine.
So look around the place the top radiator hose connects to the engine. If you don’t see a brake-caliper-like bleed screw, eyeball the top of the radiator opening, it’s probably above every point in the cooling system and so that’s the bubble bleed location.[/quote]
That’s pretty interesting. My other car is a 2006 Ford Fusion V6. There is a bleed screw/valve in the top radiator hose and an expansion tank. The jeep just had an overflow. I can already tell if I ever have to do this in my Ford there will be a greater degree of difficulty. The car comes in a 4 cyl model too. I swear all they did was shoehorn a V6 in an opening fit for a 4cyl. and it’s transverse mounted. It’s very hard to get to almost everything. Even the headlights. Matter of fact to change the drive belt you have to jack it up, take the wheel off and peel back the fender liner to access the tensioner because there is a huge motor mount on the top right in the way of everything! Yuck!
[quote=”grg88″ post=74044]The general principle is that the air is going to collect at and has to exit from the highest point in the cooling system.
Now if you have a setup where the engine is low and the top of the radiator is above the top of the engine, then there is no need for a bleed screw, the air can exit through the radiator cap opening.
But if the car has a low-slung radiator, then most likely then engine cooling system has points that are higher than the top of the radiator, so they have to put a bleed screw at the topmost place, often where the top radiator hose connects to the engine.
So look around the place the top radiator hose connects to the engine. If you don’t see a brake-caliper-like bleed screw, eyeball the top of the radiator opening, it’s probably above every point in the cooling system and so that’s the bubble bleed location.[/quote]
That’s pretty interesting. My other car is a 2006 Ford Fusion V6. There is a bleed screw/valve in the top radiator hose and an expansion tank. The jeep just had an overflow. I can already tell if I ever have to do this in my Ford there will be a greater degree of difficulty. The car comes in a 4 cyl model too. I swear all they did was shoehorn a V6 in an opening fit for a 4cyl. and it’s transverse mounted. It’s very hard to get to almost everything. Even the headlights. Matter of fact to change the drive belt you have to jack it up, take the wheel off and peel back the fender liner to access the tensioner because there is a huge motor mount on the top right in the way of everything! Yuck!
Got it all put back together. No leaks. No over heating. Lost a lot of coolant but I caught most of it in a pan. Topped it off after the first start up. Went for a test drive. All seems well! Just want to say with Eric’s plain language in depth videos I felt confident enough. A few months ago I would’ve never attempted this! Many thanks to everyone here!
Brian
Got it all put back together. No leaks. No over heating. Lost a lot of coolant but I caught most of it in a pan. Topped it off after the first start up. Went for a test drive. All seems well! Just want to say with Eric’s plain language in depth videos I felt confident enough. A few months ago I would’ve never attempted this! Many thanks to everyone here!
Brian
[quote=”grg88″ post=73848]mkay, my son’s new (used) car looks great, but it does have a noticeable smell of smoking in it. Not too bad, but it does make my sensitive nose run a little.
Any suggestions on removing the smell? And no, a pine tree or playmate hanging deodorizer is not an option.[/quote]
Have the interior detailed. Some places can do an odor bomb which eliminates odors inside the car.
[quote=”grg88″ post=73848]mkay, my son’s new (used) car looks great, but it does have a noticeable smell of smoking in it. Not too bad, but it does make my sensitive nose run a little.
Any suggestions on removing the smell? And no, a pine tree or playmate hanging deodorizer is not an option.[/quote]
Have the interior detailed. Some places can do an odor bomb which eliminates odors inside the car.
placing a car battery on a concrete surface?
switching between fully synthetic and conventional motor oil. (I’ve been told once you go fully synthetic, you never go back)
placing a car battery on a concrete surface?
switching between fully synthetic and conventional motor oil. (I’ve been told once you go fully synthetic, you never go back)
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=72832]Sounds fun… Eric does a mythbusters episode!
Hmmm… Here is my contribution…
As a mechanic back in my Army days I was always told never to put batteries directly on concrete (for a period of a day or even less)… That it would suck the voltage out of them… If you did leave one on the ground even for a minute, boy did you get smoked….. Have since heard it was a wives tale, but I still can’t bring myself to put them on concrete to this day…
Nitrogen is better than regular air in tires… (this has probably been beat to death on many, many forums)
Putting the tailgate down on a truck gets better gas mileage (I think this has been busted though)….
The Higher octane is better for your car (burns better), even though your car only needs 87…. I can’t remember if you have explained this one….
-Karl[/quote]
I’d love to see a video talking about all these topics!
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=72832]Sounds fun… Eric does a mythbusters episode!
Hmmm… Here is my contribution…
As a mechanic back in my Army days I was always told never to put batteries directly on concrete (for a period of a day or even less)… That it would suck the voltage out of them… If you did leave one on the ground even for a minute, boy did you get smoked….. Have since heard it was a wives tale, but I still can’t bring myself to put them on concrete to this day…
Nitrogen is better than regular air in tires… (this has probably been beat to death on many, many forums)
Putting the tailgate down on a truck gets better gas mileage (I think this has been busted though)….
The Higher octane is better for your car (burns better), even though your car only needs 87…. I can’t remember if you have explained this one….
-Karl[/quote]
I’d love to see a video talking about all these topics!
[quote=”tysondoggie” post=72650]rolled my first car that i owned it was a 1986 buick skyhawk it had 998285 miles drove it for 3000ish miles then just stopped died right on the street dont know if it was rebuit engine or tranny was new sure didnt drive like new hey i only paid 300 bucks for it thought i would share my story.[/quote]
wow! would’ve been epic to turn a million miles and have all zeros again!
[quote=”tysondoggie” post=72650]rolled my first car that i owned it was a 1986 buick skyhawk it had 998285 miles drove it for 3000ish miles then just stopped died right on the street dont know if it was rebuit engine or tranny was new sure didnt drive like new hey i only paid 300 bucks for it thought i would share my story.[/quote]
wow! would’ve been epic to turn a million miles and have all zeros again!
Another thing I would like to add…
Eric, it was pretty cool to see how fast you actually can work when you don’t have to stop and explain every step, nut and/or bolt during the process. That job probably would’ve taken me all day. :silly: When I changed my brakes it took me about 4 hours to do all 4 wheels…sad I know, but it saved me some cash.
I sort of knew how to change brakes before I came across your videos. Well lets just say I could get the job done, but I would like to complement you and say your videos have given me a little more knowledge and information and ways to go about finding that information. Your work has given me a lot more confidence under the hood, a few of the things I am considering trying is transmission fluid drain and refill, oil change, serpentine belt replacement and from what I’ve learned from watching several of your brake job videos I think my next brake job will go a lot quicker and smoother. Other videos I have seen online haven’t even come close to making me feel as confident as your videos do. I’ve never really worked on cars, always taken them to the shop and paid someone else to do it. Then wife and baby come along and your whole financial situation changes so now I’m trying to cut costs wherever I can.
I’ve been doing computer repair and network design and implementation for about 13 years. Honestly, it’s just not fun anymore, the job doesn’t really challenge me so I thought it might be fun to try and learn something else. Not a career change, I just want to try and be good at something else. I am a fast learner and I am good at following directions. So keep up the good work, and keep cranking out those awesome videos!
You stay dirty, I’ll stay nerdy 😆
Brian
Another thing I would like to add…
Eric, it was pretty cool to see how fast you actually can work when you don’t have to stop and explain every step, nut and/or bolt during the process. That job probably would’ve taken me all day. :silly: When I changed my brakes it took me about 4 hours to do all 4 wheels…sad I know, but it saved me some cash.
I sort of knew how to change brakes before I came across your videos. Well lets just say I could get the job done, but I would like to complement you and say your videos have given me a little more knowledge and information and ways to go about finding that information. Your work has given me a lot more confidence under the hood, a few of the things I am considering trying is transmission fluid drain and refill, oil change, serpentine belt replacement and from what I’ve learned from watching several of your brake job videos I think my next brake job will go a lot quicker and smoother. Other videos I have seen online haven’t even come close to making me feel as confident as your videos do. I’ve never really worked on cars, always taken them to the shop and paid someone else to do it. Then wife and baby come along and your whole financial situation changes so now I’m trying to cut costs wherever I can.
I’ve been doing computer repair and network design and implementation for about 13 years. Honestly, it’s just not fun anymore, the job doesn’t really challenge me so I thought it might be fun to try and learn something else. Not a career change, I just want to try and be good at something else. I am a fast learner and I am good at following directions. So keep up the good work, and keep cranking out those awesome videos!
You stay dirty, I’ll stay nerdy 😆
Brian