Forum Replies Created
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[quote=”barneyb” post=133433]Stymied by a valve cover? Are you sure you want your friend doing this job?[/quote]
He’s more than qualified. I’ve seen this first hand. all 14 bolts removed, cover won’t budge it’s like it’s glued or cemented. my ford shop book says it uses a sealant…could this be preventing it from coming off?
Brian
when my friend came to look at it he forgot to bring his scan tool, I had the car towed to his house and he read the codes all the cylinders on the right side misfired – which is worrying us both. You can hear broken things rattling around in there, it definitely needs to come apart. So he was just exploring…and can’t get the valve cover off.
Just wanted to drop in and say I like what you’ve done with the related videos area under the feature videos. Now that the videos are included in the widgets below, you don’t have to worry about navigating away from the page you were originally on. Very nice. Keep up the good work! And, goes without saying, your videos are fantastic. I don’t actually do a lot of repairs but I do enjoy watching the very complex videos. I would love to see engine rebuilds or more engine swaps!
Brian
Just wanted to drop in and say I like what you’ve done with the related videos area under the feature videos. Now that the videos are included in the widgets below, you don’t have to worry about navigating away from the page you were originally on. Very nice. Keep up the good work! And, goes without saying, your videos are fantastic. I don’t actually do a lot of repairs but I do enjoy watching the very complex videos. I would love to see engine rebuilds or more engine swaps!
Brian
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=98271]There should be a temperature sensor embedded in the evaporator that lets the controller know that the evaporator has become too cold and it should shut off the compressor, so that the evaporator can de-ice itself. Then when the temp of the evaporator rises above freezing and the ice is melted the sensor sends a signal to the controller and the controller tells the compressor to turn on again.
Not knowing what kind of vehicle you have it is hard to be specific. This is how most A/C systems work. I think you probably need to replace the evaporator as I don’t think the sensor is available. You may want to go to a parts store and ask to take a look at at the replacement evaporator for your vehicle and see if it has a sensor in it. Also it would be a good idea to acquire a Factory Service Manual published by the manufacturer of your vehicle NOT Haynes or Chilton’s. You may be able to find vehicle info at your local library.
Hope this is helpful to you.John[/quote]
Thank you so much, I will take a look at my documentation. I actually have not only the Haynes manual, but also the ford workshop manual in paperback and digital format B) I’ve found haynes is good for general maintenance but anything make/model specific you can’t beat the ford books!
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=98271]There should be a temperature sensor embedded in the evaporator that lets the controller know that the evaporator has become too cold and it should shut off the compressor, so that the evaporator can de-ice itself. Then when the temp of the evaporator rises above freezing and the ice is melted the sensor sends a signal to the controller and the controller tells the compressor to turn on again.
Not knowing what kind of vehicle you have it is hard to be specific. This is how most A/C systems work. I think you probably need to replace the evaporator as I don’t think the sensor is available. You may want to go to a parts store and ask to take a look at at the replacement evaporator for your vehicle and see if it has a sensor in it. Also it would be a good idea to acquire a Factory Service Manual published by the manufacturer of your vehicle NOT Haynes or Chilton’s. You may be able to find vehicle info at your local library.
Hope this is helpful to you.John[/quote]
Thank you so much, I will take a look at my documentation. I actually have not only the Haynes manual, but also the ford workshop manual in paperback and digital format B) I’ve found haynes is good for general maintenance but anything make/model specific you can’t beat the ford books!
[quote=”JTF” post=98541]Fusion / Milan correct?
First I would follow everyone’s suggestion for proper diagnosis.
Depending on what A/C system you have, there is a TSB on this: A/C SYSTEM LOSES AIR FLOW/INOPERATIVE— TSB 09-18-11… which is reprogramming the A/C controller.
If you have manual control A/C the Evaporator the Discharge Air Temperature Sensor is in the top of the evaporator case and you have to remove the instrument panel to gain access.
This is a known problem with your vehicle and Ford is well aware these are faulty and I would push their button on this for repair.[/quote]
As everyone is leaving their suggestions as to what the problem is and what to do about the problem (many thanks btw) it is reminding me of nuggets of information I initially left out.
Yes, it is a 2006 Fusion SEL V6 w/ Automatic HVAC
At one point the blower fan was suggested as if there is no airflow it will ice over. Well after closer inspection, the blower fan is not dropping out. it only SOUNDS like it is because it’s inside a block of ice. After turning it off a while it works normally. This morning on my way to work it started to act up, so I quickly set the temp to full heat and let it run a few minutes – that seemed to melt the ice and after a few minutes, when I tried it – I had AC! My point is, looking back at the blower fan and what I know now about air needing to flow, it is important I should note my AC does not do this if I leave it in full manual AC with the fan blowing full speed. The car has climate controlled/temp AC so if I let it “do it’s own thing” and decide fan speed and output vent – if the AC is on eventually it ices over because the fan isn’t running full speed. On really hot days I don’t even mess with it, I run it on full blast so I have AC 100% of the time. Also to note, this does not seem to happen at all when I just blow air through the vents (hot or cold) with the AC switched off. Again, thanks in advance.
[quote=”JTF” post=98541]Fusion / Milan correct?
First I would follow everyone’s suggestion for proper diagnosis.
Depending on what A/C system you have, there is a TSB on this: A/C SYSTEM LOSES AIR FLOW/INOPERATIVE— TSB 09-18-11… which is reprogramming the A/C controller.
If you have manual control A/C the Evaporator the Discharge Air Temperature Sensor is in the top of the evaporator case and you have to remove the instrument panel to gain access.
This is a known problem with your vehicle and Ford is well aware these are faulty and I would push their button on this for repair.[/quote]
As everyone is leaving their suggestions as to what the problem is and what to do about the problem (many thanks btw) it is reminding me of nuggets of information I initially left out.
Yes, it is a 2006 Fusion SEL V6 w/ Automatic HVAC
At one point the blower fan was suggested as if there is no airflow it will ice over. Well after closer inspection, the blower fan is not dropping out. it only SOUNDS like it is because it’s inside a block of ice. After turning it off a while it works normally. This morning on my way to work it started to act up, so I quickly set the temp to full heat and let it run a few minutes – that seemed to melt the ice and after a few minutes, when I tried it – I had AC! My point is, looking back at the blower fan and what I know now about air needing to flow, it is important I should note my AC does not do this if I leave it in full manual AC with the fan blowing full speed. The car has climate controlled/temp AC so if I let it “do it’s own thing” and decide fan speed and output vent – if the AC is on eventually it ices over because the fan isn’t running full speed. On really hot days I don’t even mess with it, I run it on full blast so I have AC 100% of the time. Also to note, this does not seem to happen at all when I just blow air through the vents (hot or cold) with the AC switched off. Again, thanks in advance.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98334]I agree that taking it to a professional is probably the best course of action. AC diagnosis is best left to those with the tools and equipment to do it properly. Keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]
Oh I had no intention of trying to fix this myself, just trying to get a feel for what I’m in for. If it is this cut off switch that folks have mentioned, do I have to open the system? ie: evacuate refrigerant?
Thanks,
Brian[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98334]I agree that taking it to a professional is probably the best course of action. AC diagnosis is best left to those with the tools and equipment to do it properly. Keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]
Oh I had no intention of trying to fix this myself, just trying to get a feel for what I’m in for. If it is this cut off switch that folks have mentioned, do I have to open the system? ie: evacuate refrigerant?
Thanks,
Brian[quote=”wysetech” post=98039]On older cars with R-12 I used to love seeing the suction line frosted up. It was working at it’s best that way. I think college man is on the right track with what he is suggesting. Could be the compressor low pressure cutout switch is not allowing the compressor to disengage at the correct pressure or not at all. If it has been real humid where you live it will even be worse.
Connecting a gauge set will tell you if this is the problem. I believe the compressor should turn off at around 24 to 26 psi and turn on again around 44 to 46 psi with the engine running on low to medium fan speed.[/quote]
Sounds like maybe I should take it to a shop. The day I snapped that photo was a very humid, rainy morning. You can still hear the blower when it acts up it just sounds muffled. What is the most likely bad part in this scenario? Compressor? (gulp)
[quote=”wysetech” post=98039]On older cars with R-12 I used to love seeing the suction line frosted up. It was working at it’s best that way. I think college man is on the right track with what he is suggesting. Could be the compressor low pressure cutout switch is not allowing the compressor to disengage at the correct pressure or not at all. If it has been real humid where you live it will even be worse.
Connecting a gauge set will tell you if this is the problem. I believe the compressor should turn off at around 24 to 26 psi and turn on again around 44 to 46 psi with the engine running on low to medium fan speed.[/quote]
Sounds like maybe I should take it to a shop. The day I snapped that photo was a very humid, rainy morning. You can still hear the blower when it acts up it just sounds muffled. What is the most likely bad part in this scenario? Compressor? (gulp)
[quote=”college man” post=97918]The blower needs to be running for the ac to work. can you verify the
blower speeds work. If the line is frosted the evap is probraly icing up
cutting off air flow. by looking at the picture I believe thats the suction
line. I would say you are over charged.[/quote]The blower seems to work just fine in most cases. What I mean by that is when you first turn it on it works perfectly, gets nice and cold etc. After it runs a while it’s almost as if air pressure coming from the vents goes away. the vents on the dash are very cold but it almost sounds as if a fan is not spinning or not fast enough. Could it possibly be that I am having some sort of intermittent problem with the blower motor? It does do this also in the winter while using the heat but since components don’t freeze up from this in the winter it seems to have a faster recovery time (starts working properly again)
Again all of this, did not show up until after I had the problem fixed a year ago. Not sure if this has anything to do with it, but when my compressor stopped coming on it was right at the end of summer. Hot weather was done so I just never bothered to fix it since it didn’t seem to make sense spending a lot of money to fix something that wasn’t going to be used so I waited until spring of 2013 to fix it. Since then it has been doing this intermittent thing as described. Only today is the first time I raised the hood to find these frosted lines. Next time it acts up I am going to pull over immediately and look and see if it’s frozen, and when it’s working properly I’m also going to check it, I can get temp readings coming out of the vents with an infrared thermometer I have. If you have any questions I’m happy to answer them. I hope this is enough information surrounding the issue.
Thanks in advance,
Brian[quote=”college man” post=97918]The blower needs to be running for the ac to work. can you verify the
blower speeds work. If the line is frosted the evap is probraly icing up
cutting off air flow. by looking at the picture I believe thats the suction
line. I would say you are over charged.[/quote]The blower seems to work just fine in most cases. What I mean by that is when you first turn it on it works perfectly, gets nice and cold etc. After it runs a while it’s almost as if air pressure coming from the vents goes away. the vents on the dash are very cold but it almost sounds as if a fan is not spinning or not fast enough. Could it possibly be that I am having some sort of intermittent problem with the blower motor? It does do this also in the winter while using the heat but since components don’t freeze up from this in the winter it seems to have a faster recovery time (starts working properly again)
Again all of this, did not show up until after I had the problem fixed a year ago. Not sure if this has anything to do with it, but when my compressor stopped coming on it was right at the end of summer. Hot weather was done so I just never bothered to fix it since it didn’t seem to make sense spending a lot of money to fix something that wasn’t going to be used so I waited until spring of 2013 to fix it. Since then it has been doing this intermittent thing as described. Only today is the first time I raised the hood to find these frosted lines. Next time it acts up I am going to pull over immediately and look and see if it’s frozen, and when it’s working properly I’m also going to check it, I can get temp readings coming out of the vents with an infrared thermometer I have. If you have any questions I’m happy to answer them. I hope this is enough information surrounding the issue.
Thanks in advance,
Brian[quote=”dave1645″ post=75127]a little hint I saw somewhere,for bleeding a cooling system and it works great go buy or find an old rad cap remove the the over flow retrieval valve from the cap just break it off on a cold engine swap out this cap for the one on your car now run your engine till your fan cycles you will
see bubbles in your overflow tank let this happen a couple of times turn off your engine let it cool
a little and put your regular cap back on this works great and its CHEAP stay dirty folks and happy cooling[/quote]Thanks! I’ll keep this in mind for next time. Thanks to everyone here. You guys are awesome!