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Wheels and suspension have no play. Nothing obvious or abnormal noises either while driving. I am suspicious of the steering rack however symptoms I’ve learned don’t point to it(doesn’t mean it’s fine) It’s not leaking either. Wheel turns lock to lock with no binding or issues
What’s the best way to check it?
I can’t tell to be honest with you. It’s loud enough it sounds as if both sides are. I’ll tear into it one more time, perhaps I overlooked something. The calipers were somewhat resistant when screwing in the pistons both times but not terrible Told me the pistons were probably worn but not enough to replace them. I could be wrong.
Yes it is unfortunate. Though I’m not about to stir up a big stink over it with the dealer. Besides, I enjoyed doing it and I learned something. Make sure your drain pan is lined up lol!
Ok I replaced the tstat this afternoon. The original stat was open slightly with the engine cooled off. Maybe a 1/16″ gap? 1/8″ tops As I saw when I tested it in the first place.
The new stat is the same O.E stat as mentioned before. All I have to say is the car heats up much quicker and the heat is much hotter. Yes heat temp does still fluxuate but only very slightly. I expected this as the same applies when your running the AC. AC gets cooler when you drive the car, not so much when your at idle. Point here is yes I understand there will be some fluxuation but there shouldn’t be a dramatic increase in temp when you rev the engine. In my case a 40* difference.
Hope this new stat lasts longer than the original one. I do wish I had a camera to show a how to on this.
Nevermind, answered my own question lol
Supposed to be in the 40s on Saturday, I’ll be tackling it then.
I’ve never failed to “diagnose” a bad tstat of all the junk I’ve driven in the past. If I’m wrong here, I’m out $15
So I have an RT1228 O.E tstat sitting here. Descriptions on most websites state it’s 190* stat. While stamped on the stat itself says it’s a 180* can anyone verify which temp it is?
As stated in my op. The car has no air in the system nor is it leaking anywhere to cause air to get in. Coolant level stays in the middle of the cold fill min. and max. range of the overflow tank regardless of engine temp. The car does not have a radiator cap but only the overflow tank cap.
Also, if it’s “extremely unlikely” the thermostat is at fault, why does the temp of the vents fluxuate from 88* at idle and 130* when holding revs?
Finally, I refuse to work with Ford or any other dealers. They are out of the question entirely.
Ok been to a couple different dealers for this problem. Neither dealer refuses to tell me the truth and both want to fab up stories. I have been friendly and patient with both of them. Hell I bought the car at the first dealership so you would think they would be more willing to help. I guess not.
I’ve even told both dealers there is a 40* difference in vent temp. Also both heater hoses going into the firewall one is cooler than the other. When the engine is either at idle or under load. The more I hear the term stealership, the more I’m inclined to believe it.
I tested the thermostat using the pan of water trick. It opens up more but it doesn’t close all the way. I ordered a new thermostat and o ring online. Should be here this week.
So I did some fartin’ around. Drove the car at highway speed for a good 20mins, came back and took the air cleaner intake off to get to the heater hoses. I cannot access them without taking this off. The heater hose going into the thermostat housing is hotter than the hose going into the water pump housing. Both hoses are warm but the hose going into the t-stat is definetly warmer.
Basically what I’m looking at without the ability to upload pictures, is both upper and lower radiator(capless) hoses going into the electric water pump. Opposite side the engine of the drive belt. One small housing is bolted right to the water pump housing which is then bolted to the engine block. Follow me?
Access is very easy fortunately as all I have to do remove the air intake tube.
Car is still under warranty. Not sure if t-stat or water pump would be covererd? First time having a car with a warranty or car payment for that matter :ohmy: 😛
I’m curious though, Gm allegedly had issues with their dexcool. My car takes dexcool orange as oe stuff. My point is why would a tstat or water pump be failing so early? dexcool? My former grand prix took dexcool but never had issue with it. Did replace the tstat in that but only after the car was 10yrs old did it need it.
I do plan on calling the dealer first thing on Monday and report back.
Wysetech – No warning lights
Raistian77 – Thanks for the link. I live in northcentral OH. I took a closer look at my gas cap and filler neck. All I did was a poke a flashlight in there holding the flap with a screwdriver. Didn’t see anything built up in there. Something stuck in the filler neck itself possibly? I guess it would make sense because if the gas is building up in the filler neck and not allowed to flow into the tank, then the pump would think the car is full kicking it off? Just randomly thinking.
Wysetech – No warning lights
Raistian77 – Thanks for the link. I live in northcentral OH. I took a closer look at my gas cap and filler neck. All I did was a poke a flashlight in there holding the flap with a screwdriver. Didn’t see anything built up in there. Something stuck in the filler neck itself possibly? I guess it would make sense because if the gas is building up in the filler neck and not allowed to flow into the tank, then the pump would think the car is full kicking it off? Just randomly thinking.
Apologize for delaying my response. Thank you college man for your response.
I felt this was something critical enough to let a pro handle it from here. Long story short, the shop was able to replicate the problem. They told me I may need a valve body replacement or the splines are worn on the input shaft. If either of those were the case, wouldn’t the tranny be acting funny in all gears? Shop also told me if the spline shaft is worn, they feel it would be better to just replace the whole tranny due to metal in the fluid. I told them I changed it just the other day along with the filter. They gave me the “deer in headlight” look So there thinking because I serviced the trans, it could be damaged.
I’m prepared for the worst but the car only has 77K miles on it. Would it be wrong of me to smell snake oil or is the shop right? I don’t mess with transmissions period other than servicing them.