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[quote=”johncool54″ post=50157]Depending on the vehicle, for just a few dollars more (literally) you can actually buy a new control arm, w/ bushings and w/balljoint. I would double check to make sure this is not the case for the vehicle you are working on. Save some money down the road and no rivets involved :)[/quote]
I was gonna suggest the same thing. Looking into doing this job next on my truck, seen many places where people go through the hassle and then find out their bushings are bad too a month later.
To do those seals, don’t you have to take the rocker assembly off? Don’t those rockers open and close the valves….I am sure I have seen an ETCG video where he did the exact same thing, and I’m pretty sure it is good practice to adjust the valves afterwards. Good luck!!
I would try to find that video, he said what the gaps are supposed to be for in&ex and the torque settings too I think.
To do those seals, don’t you have to take the rocker assembly off? Don’t those rockers open and close the valves….I am sure I have seen an ETCG video where he did the exact same thing, and I’m pretty sure it is good practice to adjust the valves afterwards. Good luck!!
I would try to find that video, he said what the gaps are supposed to be for in&ex and the torque settings too I think.
I posted in a different thread, but I want to tack on here also to maybe to help anyone and keep track of things myself. I replaced the thermostat with a 195 degree because the temperature gauge was never reading hot, just barely at 130 degrees. The scanner live data showed 144 degrees, but the temperature gauge is not that accurate. I was thinking maybe some of my lingering high idle issues could be caused by the engine never reaching an operating temperature….well it idles weird but ill get into that later. So the temp gauge has line straight up and down for optimal temps. That is 210 degrees. The gauge moves about 3/8 up and holds steady, and I have much better heat now.
The old thermostat looked fine as far I could tell. It was not stuck open or anything. Hopefully it doesn’t boil over this summer. I have not hooked a scanner back up yet to check live data. It has been a few miles now and I do seam to be getting better fuel economy(14.5mpg). Which still sucks but better than 12mpg.
Also I got a new expansion tank and some more hose to it. The old one was cut. And I got an ambient air temperature sensor. One of the wire connectors dangling fit it perfectly….there are still 2 more dangling…I think might be for fog lights or airbag sensors?The truck has some weird idling issues. First thing in the morning when it’s super cold, it idles fine around 700rpm, no surge or hunting for idle. After warmed up goes to 1000rpm and fluctuates about 50 rpm constantly. Could not find a vacuum leak? Only things to replace are
Map sensor & air charge temperature sensor. Maybe the PCM is messed up?Lastly, I have gone about 300 miles and still no check engine light!
I posted in a different thread, but I want to tack on here also to maybe to help anyone and keep track of things myself. I replaced the thermostat with a 195 degree because the temperature gauge was never reading hot, just barely at 130 degrees. The scanner live data showed 144 degrees, but the temperature gauge is not that accurate. I was thinking maybe some of my lingering high idle issues could be caused by the engine never reaching an operating temperature….well it idles weird but ill get into that later. So the temp gauge has line straight up and down for optimal temps. That is 210 degrees. The gauge moves about 3/8 up and holds steady, and I have much better heat now.
The old thermostat looked fine as far I could tell. It was not stuck open or anything. Hopefully it doesn’t boil over this summer. I have not hooked a scanner back up yet to check live data. It has been a few miles now and I do seam to be getting better fuel economy(14.5mpg). Which still sucks but better than 12mpg.
Also I got a new expansion tank and some more hose to it. The old one was cut. And I got an ambient air temperature sensor. One of the wire connectors dangling fit it perfectly….there are still 2 more dangling…I think might be for fog lights or airbag sensors?The truck has some weird idling issues. First thing in the morning when it’s super cold, it idles fine around 700rpm, no surge or hunting for idle. After warmed up goes to 1000rpm and fluctuates about 50 rpm constantly. Could not find a vacuum leak? Only things to replace are
Map sensor & air charge temperature sensor. Maybe the PCM is messed up?Lastly, I have gone about 300 miles and still no check engine light!
Hmmm. You know, I’m not sure I ever lifted the slave boot to see that side of the cup the push rod fits into was in there right?…maybe it could have been easier, though things rarely go that way for me. It’s all installed now and not leaking, and it works good….really don’t want to take it off to double check.
I did work the slave a bit before installing got fluid in it. It had to be like completely compressed before I could fit it in….and I did have the hydraulic line started before I bolted it to the trans. That actually helped give me something to grab and pull to get the bolts started.Thank you for getting back to me and thanks a million for the video!!
Hmmm. You know, I’m not sure I ever lifted the slave boot to see that side of the cup the push rod fits into was in there right?…maybe it could have been easier, though things rarely go that way for me. It’s all installed now and not leaking, and it works good….really don’t want to take it off to double check.
I did work the slave a bit before installing got fluid in it. It had to be like completely compressed before I could fit it in….and I did have the hydraulic line started before I bolted it to the trans. That actually helped give me something to grab and pull to get the bolts started.Thank you for getting back to me and thanks a million for the video!!
Smoke machine is a very expensive tool…..saw a Scotty Kilmer video where he puffed a cigar and blew the smoke through an access port, or any of the emissions lines I guess? Not the one going to the gas tank I think?
Smoke machine is a very expensive tool…..saw a Scotty Kilmer video where he puffed a cigar and blew the smoke through an access port, or any of the emissions lines I guess? Not the one going to the gas tank I think?
I drained the radiator first. Then I filled it back up. Not sure where the bleed screw is or if it has one? …..sure hope I don’t get a blown head gasket from it….
I drained the radiator first. Then I filled it back up. Not sure where the bleed screw is or if it has one? …..sure hope I don’t get a blown head gasket from it….
Well, I ended up having to replace that master cylinder also. I am soooo glad I watched your video on how to do this. I ended up having to buy some metric brake line wrenches. They still diddnt work we’ll so used a channel locks to brake the seal. That little cotter pin is the biggest PITA. I ruined it getting it out of there. Replaced with a paper clip, and I reversed it, which I saw on another video. The slave cylinder is definitely way harder on the accord. It’s pretty tough to press it in there and get the bolts started. It’s all together and working now. The hand held vacuum pump is the way to go also. I had to find a YouTube video to figure out how to use it, as I was doing it wrong at first.
Well, I ended up having to replace that master cylinder also. I am soooo glad I watched your video on how to do this. I ended up having to buy some metric brake line wrenches. They still diddnt work we’ll so used a channel locks to brake the seal. That little cotter pin is the biggest PITA. I ruined it getting it out of there. Replaced with a paper clip, and I reversed it, which I saw on another video. The slave cylinder is definitely way harder on the accord. It’s pretty tough to press it in there and get the bolts started. It’s all together and working now. The hand held vacuum pump is the way to go also. I had to find a YouTube video to figure out how to use it, as I was doing it wrong at first.